Maybe you have memories of childhood vacations at summer resorts with the relaxed, carefree screen-door feel of summer: fields of grass, a convivial dining room, a nice beach and long, lazy days to enjoy it all. The good news is that a place like this still exists and better yet, it has a group of lovely resorts that welcome guests with open arms: the charming enclave of Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin.
Just over an hour’s drive from the Milwaukee Airport, Elkhart Lake is a quieter, gentler world that’s been pleasing guests for well over a century. There’s a walkable small town with the requisite ice cream store, lovely shops, a wine bar and surprising array of really good restaurants. Steps away are several time-tested resorts, each with its own persona. And as for the lake, it’s a beauty.
While the resort area is pleasantly peaceful, there is a lot of noise being made at the nearby Road America, a four-mile race course that draws speed enthusiasts from all over the world. If you’re so inclined, not only can you watch race car drivers, you can learn how to drive like one yourself. Being married to a car nut, I signed up for the go-kart circuit just so I could show him the photos, which he surely appreciated. Bombing around the track in a big helmet was a surely a first for me!
The Osthoff Resort Promotes a Good Time —
& Wellness From Within
It’s big, beautiful and it’s the grand dame of Elkhart Lake. Originally built in 1885 (and rebuilt a century later in tune with its original style), The Osthoff Resort is set along the shores of the lake with sweeping lawns, water sports, a beach and a reputation for fabulous food.
Better yet, a new wellness initiative has upped the ante and turned this large hotel in a farm-to-table paradise. An early morning tour took us through the hotel’s well-tended, two-acre garden where we saw 20 varieties of tomatoes, eight kinds of peppers, six kinds of summer squash and so much more. In addition to vegetables, there were edible flowers to adorn salads, spearmint for mojitos, copious herbs and a storybook pumpkin patch growing to meet the demand for holiday pies.
The garden produce is used at the hotel’s two restaurants — the more casual Otto’s and the fancier Lola’s on the Lake. The bounty is also instrumental at L’Ecole de la Maison, the excellent on-site cooking school. Professionally equipped and with instruction by expert chefs, a class here is an experience you won’t want to miss.
The Osthoff is also renowned for its Aspira Spa, yet another place the garden’s herbs are used for facials and other aromatic treatments. The extensive spa menu incorporates elements of Native American culture considered sacred in the area, using elements of wood, fire, earth, metal and water. The expertise here runs far and wide, whether you’re getting a massage or like me, opted for something more unusual. My craniosacral treatment was something I’d never tried before. The treatment alleviated neck strain and kept me feeling relaxed during the rest of my Elkhart Lake vacation.
Victorian Village & Siebkens:
Resorts with Timeless Appeal
Close to the Osthoff is Victorian Village Resort, another vintage property that was first built in 1872 and rebuilt after a fire in 1891. While lovingly updated, it still has much of what has brought guests here for so many years. Many rooms have big balconies overlooking the lakeside beach and outdoor pool (there’s also an indoor pool). The variety of buildings give it the feel its name espouses – that of a little vacation village. There’s even a traditional theatre where summer productions are put on to the delight of visitors and residents alike. The friendly staff includes long time employees and enthusiastic young locals. Join the fun and partake of the fine home cooking at the excellent Back Porch Bistro (once a speakeasy). Grab a cocktail or a cone and the lively Barefoot Tiki Bar.
Siebkens is another turn-of-the-century resort, owned and run by the fourth generation of the Siebken family. An array of accommodations are available here and even the newer buildings retain the look of the original Victorian structure. I loved the big downstairs dining room where homey foods and local specialties like the Siebkens wedge salad and the pan-fried walleye bring people back again and again. Siebkens is also home to a world-renowned bar called the Stop-Inn Tavern where auto enthusiasts in town for Road American meet and enjoy the bar’s racing memorabilia. In the warmer months, Siebkens also has a coffee shop and an ice cream shop, completing the summery picture.
Downtown Dining, Shopping & Wine
Just a short stroll from the resorts, you’ll find a surprising array of restaurants for such a small town. And while the resorts all have great food, it’s nice to mix it up and visit two of the local favorites, Lake Street Cafe and Paddock Club.
The petite tenderloin shiraz is Lake Street’s most popular dish, and I couldn’t resist. Served with a rich wine sauce and fingerling potatoes (plus garlic herb Boursin cheese), I quickly saw why it’s so popular. Owner Lynn Shovan told us the lobster bisque is a two-day process and it’s also one of the perennial favorites. Lake Street’s stocks, sauces, breads and desserts are all made from scratch.
Paddock Club is another hot spot along the same little stretch. With brick walls and dark wood, it’s got a lively atmosphere and lots of comfort food. Known for its craft cocktails, I opted for the Blood Orange Manhattan which had delicious depth. Next, I tried the mushroom risotto fritters, followed by the lemon rosemary chicken and I couldn’t have been more satisfied.
A walk through town (consisting of two short intersecting streets) brought other delights. I started at Off the Rail Cafe where coffee is king and baked goods are homemade and memorable. (I’m still dreaming of my cinnamon roll with its sugary, crunchy topping.) Elkhart Lake Outfitters is a store to get lost in with its appealing array of stylish, comfortable clothes, jewelry and small gift items. Enchanted Florals offered more than beautiful flowers, with a nice selection of jewelry and home goods. Being of Finnish descent, I was thrilled to find Nordic Accents where Danish, Finnish and Norwegian sweaters, shoes, candles, crystal, linens and more were special and expertly chosen, including the Finnish towel I bought with a big moose covering the entire thing. Two Fish Gallery was filled to the brim with art of all descriptions: paintings, pottery, jewelry and more at surprisingly affordable prices. I purchased some small butter dishes, just perfect for dinner parties when a whole stick of butter is too much. My little tour ended at Vintage Elkhart Lake, a lovely and well-provisioned gourmet store where I stocked up on local Wisconsin cheeses to bring back home. My friend and I also settled in for a wine tasting at the bar where we sampled three red wines, two of them from Wisconsin..
And Don’t Forget to Exercise
Elkhart Lake itself is there for the taking, so be sure to swim, sit, stroll, and enjoy its ever-changing beauty. The Osthoff offers so many ways to get out on the water: pontoon boats, fishing boats, hydro-bikes (think raised gym bike right over the water), paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. There’s even a beautiful swan boat. We took a pontoon tour of the lake on a misty afternoon and loved seeing the pretty homes from the water side.
The Quit Qui Oc Golf Club welcomes players of all abilities. Take a lesson or head out on your own. Family owned and operated for over 60 years, it’s a beautiful course. And if you’re feeling energetic like I was after sitting on a plane for hours, visit Soel. This welcoming fitness studio has a philosophy unlike many others where all are welcome, whether you’re a spinning pro or a complete beginner. Check the schedule for a range of yoga, strength and spinning classes. I’ll admit that when it comes to spinning, I’m pretty pathetic in that I easily get bored and out of breath. At Soel’s spinning class, the pace was do-able and I really had a good time.
For more information about visiting, go to elkhartlake.com
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