Pretty panoramas of Stockholm aren’t hard to find. We could hop on SkyView, a breathtaking gondola that transports us to the roof of Ericsson Globe, the largest spherical building in the world. Or bus it above Finland Ferries to Fjällgatan, where there’s a gorgeous vista of Djurgården and Skeppsholmen (popular but impossible to pronounce). Kaknästornet is another bird’s eye beauty. This transmission tower rises 155 metres from Gärdet, a meadow north of Djurgården. And while drinking in the scene from this thirtieth floor observation deck, we can also sip on a cocktail. Now that’s my kind of a viewing platform.
But when given the option of either taking the easy route, or one that requires more exertion, my exuberant husband usually chooses the latter.
“You can do it,” Brent encourages. “Only a hundred more steps to go.” Is he kidding me? My heart is drum-rolling, quads are seizing and I’m regretting eating that buttery croissant for breakfast. But I continue to huff and puff my way skyward, through the brick-encased tunnels and up all 325 gruelling steps. And after summiting, I receive my visual reward.
Stockholm’s red-brick City Hall, topped by three golden crowns, is one of the city’s most recognizable buildings and, from this 106-metre tower, we’re offered a 360-degree panorama: Saltsjön, an inlet of the Baltic Sea is in the east; Riddarfjärden, part of Lake Mälaren, lies to the west; the downtown hub is north; and the island of Södermalm is south – along with many popular landmarks that have made Stockholm a world-famous destination to visit.
Over the next three days, we put our cross-trainers to work and enjoy closer encounters with a number of these tourist haunts. Thanks to our Stockholm Pass, one price provides admission to over 60 top attractions – everything from museums and monuments to land and water excursions.
The Hop On Hop Off boat and bus tours are first on our list. While travelling these scenic circuits, we’re able to get our bearings and give our legs a break. But not for long. With 24 stops en route, there’s a lot to hop off for.
Gamla Stan, the island of Old Town, is a great place to burn off (and add on) the calories. Restaurants and bars intermingle with gift stores and souvenir shops that hug up along the narrow cobblestone streets. Founded in 1252, this medieval centre is one of Europe’s best-preserved.
The largest attraction here is the striking eighteenth-century Royal Palace, boasting over 600 rooms. We check out the Orders of Chivalry, gaze at Queen Kristina’s silver throne in the Hall of State and learn about the Swedish monarchy while meandering through a maze of authentically furnished rooms.
“We’re one step away from royalty ourselves on this trip,” I say to Brent as we browse through the adjacent Treasury. It’s true. During this Stockholm stay, we’re being generously hosted at Danmarks Hus, a second home to our daughter-in-law’s parents who work for the embassy. And while they are away travelling, we have the massive four-story residence all to ourselves. Located in the heart of this energized city, we’re a short ride away to most attractions. (Or a doable walk away when travelling with my husband.)
“Let’s try a cruise,” I suggest to Brent on our second day, when looking at our pass options. “As well as the Hop On Hop Off boats, there are lots to choose from. And while getting a different perspective of this amazing city, my feet will get some downtime.”
A fleet of long boats that are moored in neighbouring harbours are equipped to deal with the bustling tourist trade. Some cruise under bridges, others through canals, some to lakes, others to islands. And while weaving their way through the waterways, they connect modern-day offerings with tidbits from the past.
We could also do a longer jaunt, like the one to Skokloster Castle, an impressive baroque monument built in the 17th century, or to Rosersberg Palace situated on Lake Mälaren. This posh spot was constructed by the well-to-do Oxenstierna family and was home to Karl XIII in the 18th century.
“Some of these take the entire day,” Brent says, while scanning his must-still-see list of attractions. “If we go for the three-hour archipelago route, we might be able to fit in a museum.” Where does my guy get his energy? It must be from all those tasty pastries he’s been devouring!
We board the MS Östanå I, a 1906 traditional beauty with a turn-of-the-century feel. Seating encircles the outer deck, and it’s here where we claim our space to revel in the roving view. Just a few minutes away from the city’s pulse, the archipelago begins. Around 30,000 islands, islets and rocks are scattered between Öregrund in the north to Landsort in the south. And each one possesses its own character and charm: rugged forests, rocky cliffs, sandy beaches. Some are uninhabited, others host summer cottages and their outstretched docks. Our guide, Elsa, provides an in-depth commentary along the way and while listening and learning about this beautiful region, my resting feet are in their happy place.
But they get a grand finale workout on day three. Stockholm is a shopper’s paradise and guess what? My guy likes to shop nearly as much as he likes to walk. We stroll Biblioteksgatan and neighbouring Birger Jarlsgatan where highfalutin names like Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton rub elbows, then get into our comfort zone along Hamngatan and through Gallerian, a mall which boasts 28,000 square metres of shops.
But Drottninggatan is the queen bee street when it comes to popularity, prices and pickings. Throngs flood this pedestrian pathway bordered by every retailer imaginable. We browse H&M, Monki, Zara and pretty much every shoe store along this bustling strip. And just in time, as the treads on our Nikes are wearing thin.
“There are still amazing museums to check out,” Brent says after we’re shopped-out. He provides the run-down of his favourites: The Vasa, which showcases a sunken warship that sank in 1628; the Nordiska that spans the Nordic lifestyles from the 16th century onward; and Skansen, the world’s first open-air museum and zoo, a favourite for kids of all ages.
Our pass also gets us into Gröna Lund, Sweden’s oldest and largest amusement park that hosts 31 rides and attractions. “There are seven roller coasters,” Brent says excitedly, as if he’s six-years old instead of 65. “And the Jet Liner is supposed to be a real screamer.”
Although we’re two decades older than anyone else in line, we hop aboard this thriller, which definitely wakes up our inner child. And as well as being treated to another pretty panorama on the first ascent, our lungs get a workout instead of our legs.
https://www.visitstockholm.com/
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