Whatcom County’s Small Town Secrets

For adventures closer to home, we slip across the border to investigate pioneer enterprise and shenanigans in Whatcom County.

Lynden’s downtown reflects a charming Dutch heritage. These hard-working immigrants farmed this fertile area, built Reformed Christian Churches… and established the state’s largest small museum. Inside this notable museum, renditions of early buildings overflow with period artifacts; a soda shop recalls the ’50s. Beside a lean-to, photos of giant evergreens and forestry equipment remind us of British Columbia’s bygone days. Yet lands cleared here largely became pastures for dairy farming. An egg-sorter and posters illustrate how Lynden was the state’s poultry centre. Nowadays, this area is famous for raspberry production.

At a replicated cabin, guide Troy asks, “What d’ya think was the settlers’ most valued book?” Someone guesses the Bible. “Nope! Most brought these massive dictionary-almanacs, predicting weather, informing them about farming practices and even state law!” A piano and other musical instruments recall evening entertainments.

Louise stands in the replica post office in the Ferndale Museum. Photo by Chris and Rick Millikan.

Downstairs, Troy grins, “To preserve carriages replaced by motor vehicles, local farmer Pollander began storing his own – and soon all his neighbours’ in his barn! Town councillors originally established this museum to exhibit his large collection of early transportation!” We look over farm wagons, a luxurious landau, dogcart, stagecoach, Irish shay and somber hearse. Pausing at the horse-drawn ambulance, Troy notes the stretcher space under the seat, and points out the hansom cab’s design allowing passengers private conversations.

Over in Ferndale, a group of similarly proud descendants collected log cabins. Lovingly maintained by volunteers, a grassy lawn in Pioneer Park embraces 16 rustic structures. Guides tour visitors through many, helping everyone imagine typical rural life in early northwest Washington. In a blue-checked gingham dress and frilly white bonnet, Louise leads us into the one-room schoolhouse past rows of wooden desks, a general store with shelves overflowing with dry goods and a tiny church. After peeking into the small log jail, we spot the centrally situated outhouse, one of 7,000 built by F.D.R.’s public works programs. These facilities ended diseases resulting from unsanitary septic systems. Our visit concludes with lemonade and fresh baked scones in one of 11 log homes.

Nearby, Hovander Farm reveals one of Washington’s finest public legacies. From local fir and cedar, Hakan Hovander built its enormous barn and grand family farmhouse trimmed with turn-of-the-century-styled gingerbread. Inside, we view a picture of Hakan’s palatial Swedish home, sold to Sweden’s King. He migrated to America and before long was designing new buildings after Chicago’s devastating fire. He invested $4,700 in 60 acres here and settled along the Nooksack River.

The Hovander Farmhouse in Ferndale. Photo by Chris and Rick Millikan.

His son, Otis, retained the original furnishings, so it’s easy to visualize this family’s busy and comfortable life in their home’s spacious rooms. The kitchen was designed to accommodate food preparation for farm crews. Collections of ever-improving irons, vacuum cleaners and washing machines are displayed in the enormous attic. The Hovanders clearly led up-to-date lifestyles.

Visiting Fairhaven District, we begin to learn about Bellingham’s fascinating and gritty past. On a huge wall, murals depicting this early town flank a whitewashed movie screen; vine-covered trellises frame Village Green. Above the grassy quad, a lanky bronze “Dirty” Dan sits on a bench, gazing perpetually over his creation.

From landmark Village Books, owner Chuck shows us around the heritage neighbourhood recounting the past, “The original red and ochre brick buildings initially housed rambunctious, turn-of-the-century enterprises… and later evolved into homes for our modern endeavors. Our Pythias Building was once a meeting place for secret societies and illegal speakeasies.”

Walking on, he tells us, “In the 1920s, the two-story Schering building replaced an original saloon and eatery with a large hardware store. Then, in the ’40s the second floor was reinforced to support a dance hall for Croatians who came here for the fishing and canning industry. This space was later readapted for boatbuilding. Nowadays, it has a glass shop and alehouse.” With a similar rollicking start, Morgan House Hotel now contains artists’ studios, fine woodworking and pottery galleries.

“The Mason Block has always hosted professional offices,” Chuck continues. “Mark Twain was its reading room’s most distinguished reader. A few years later, Andrew Carnegie created the Fairhaven library making that room redundant. The 1888 Terminal Building is Fairhaven’s oldest. When its saloon and billiard parlor folded, it gained a bicycle shop and later cigar stores and barbershops.” We notice a coffee shop there now.

The Millikans pose in front of the old Bellingham Courthouse. Photo provided by Chris and Rick Millikan.

Revelations await us next door in Dirty Dan’s Steakhouse. While dining on sumptuous seafood, the owner’s son recounts the colourful life of Dirty Dan Harris. “Fairhaven’s founder was an intrepid adventurer. Starting as a whaler at age 15, Dan sailed the world, landing in Japan, New Zealand, Antarctica and Arctic.” We learn that in Honolulu he quit whaling, journeyed to Fort Victoria and became a trader during the Cariboo Gold Rush. Smuggling and often doing downright grubby work, his nickname became Dirty Dan. Developing Fairhaven from dense wilderness, he sold this town site in 1888 for $70,000. Speculators believed it had become an important western rail terminal. Moving to California, Dirty Dan made further investments in Los Angeles – and died “filthy” rich!

Downtown, we join the Good Time Girls for a Sin and Gin walking tour. Clad in buxom bawdy wear, Annie Jo and Magnolia Pearl stand ready to reveal Bellingham’s seedy past. Magnolia explains, “We’re standing at the edge of the old red light district, then legal. Atop these very YMCA building’s steps, Preacher Billy Sunday successfully urged highfalutin’ society types to criminalize Bellingham’s sex trade!” Good-naturedly, everyone shouts, “Boooo!” Magnolia grins, “Now, let’s stroll on down this alleyway and see two former bordellos.”

Looking toward an abandoned building, Magnolia points out its weathered back doors. “Loggers and miners would drink and carouse openly… but wanted their intimacies hush-hush. Those offered privacy; the beautiful ladies inside also wanted to avoid recognition, so ventured here from faraway towns.”

Onward, Annie points out many former saloons and brothels along Railroad Avenue. “This area was a hotbed of activity, attracting rich clientele arriving on trains. Cunning Madams advertised their new girls here, provocatively parading and sashaying them around.” In front of a tattoo parlor Annie shows us titillating photos, “Although tatting needles were painful, such 19th century women had naughty tattoos inked in prominent places.”

Annie Jo & Magnolia Pearl reveal Bellingham’s past on a Sin &Gin Tour. Photo by Chris and Rick Millikan.

Stopping below old city hall, Magnolia notes, “Sin made lottsa money. One hour of these ladies’ time easily surpassed a week’s pay canning fish! When councillors outlawed prostitution, city budgets suffered greatly in lost taxes! Then, Washington State passed the Prohibition law in 1919, closing down drinking establishments, losing even more revenue.” As broad-minded taxpayers, we boo loudly! Magnolia adds, “Prostitution and drinking alcoholic beverages became clandestine activities. Raids resulted in big fines, which replaced only some of these lost taxes.”

Our walk into historic hooch and hoochie-coo concludes at a local bar. As the bartender blends up authentic 1920s cocktails, Annie and Magnolia pass platters of fresh local oysters and help us understand saloon-era culture. We sip our delicate “no shrinking violets” and hearty “scofflaws.” Magnolia cheekily smiles, “Y’know… oysters have long been considered aphrodisiacs!”

Returning to our swank Silver Reef Hotel accommodation, the night clerk asks about our day. We tell him about our Whatcom County investigations, including our racy evening. He winks, “Yes, our small town secrets can be very entertaining!”