We discover during this visit to Old Québec that all you need is a good pair of walking shoes and a yearning to discover this city’s colourful past. Come along on our self-guided tour and enjoy some of the historical icons, cultural offerings, tasty eateries and charming landmarks.
We tighten our laces and head to the high point on our walk, La Citadelle, a star-shaped fortress atop Cap Diamant that was built to fight off Americans after they attacked British Quebec in 1775. Year-round guided tours include access to the museum and, in summer months, the Changing of the Guard ritual. “As well as a National Historic site, this is still an active military base,” we’re told by Kala, our enthusiastic leader. “And it’s coined the Gibraltar of the Americas due to its strategic cliff-side location.”
Hugging up to the west side of this fortification are the grassy Plains of Abraham where, on September 13, 1759, British General Wolfe successfully led his men up the nearby steep banks for a bloody battle against the unprepared French. Today, this killing field has been delightfully transformed into pastoral-like green space, laced with walking and biking trails. To get the full scoop of this historical war zone, you can mosey through the Plains of Abraham Museum located just outside the city walls.
En route to Old Québec, we stroll the tree-lined Grand Allée where sidewalk cafés hug up to high-end shops, partake in the 45-minute tour of the Renaissance-style Parliament Building, then take time to smell the flowers at Parc de l’Esplanade, a now flourishing garden that was used for military exercises in the eighteenth century. Porte St-Louis is the impressive stone entranceway (circa 1693) that leads to Old Upper Town and beyond is a maze of crooked streets that all possess European-like charm.
“It’s strange,” my husband says, as we amble past gift shops, chichi galleries and a string of yummy-smelling restaurants. “I keep thinking we’re in France, not Canada.” Although this may be because everyone is speaking French, it’s more likely due to the fusion of Nouvelle France architecture with this city’s wonderful food!
So far during our stay, we’ve feasted on crêpes at L’Omelette, filled up on patisseries at popular Paillard and tried the Table d’ Hôte at Le Louis-Hébert, a menu option that includes hors d’oeuvre, entrée and dessert for one low price. Très bon! And when our taste buds have had a yearning for other ethnic edibles, there have been lots to choose from. The Italian pastas at the Restaurant Parmesan and pub grub at D’Orsay get our two thumbs up – clearly, it’s easy to get sidetracked with all the delicious options. Speaking of which, let’s get back to that guided walk!
From the main street of St. Louis, we veer left onto Rue des Jardins and discover the Ursuline Convent. Founded in 1693, it’s the oldest girls’ school on the continent. Today, the monastery still houses 50-or-so nuns and serves as the General Motherhouse of the Ursuline Sisters. The nearby museum provides an extensive overview from beginning to current times.
Bear right onto Ste Anne and you’ll discover the modestly decked-out Cathedral of Holy Trinity, erected in 1800. A block further, boasting a lot more glitz and glitter is the impressive Basilica-Cathedral Notre-Dame de Québec, a structure that rose to the rank of metropolitan church in 1844, minor basilica in 1874, and primate church in 1956. And in 1989, it was deemed a National Historical site.
The next must-see and hard to miss icon is Château Frontenac. Turrets and spires soar from the roof of this grand dame and dominate Old Québec’s skyline. It’s easy to see why she’s the most photographed hotel in the world. Completed in 1893, this beauty was the brainchild of William Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Over the years, she has hosted a line-up of renowned guests: Winston Churchill, Alfred Hitchcock and Paul McCartney, to name a few. Our nearby boutique hotel, Château Fleur de Lys, built in 1876, also provides current day luxuries while transporting us back to a bygone era. Exquisite Nordic bedding, flat-screen TVs and an attentive concierge, who provides us with everything from restaurant recommendations to walking routes.
Yes, now back to our tour!
For a pretty panorama of the adjacent St. Lawrence River, we head to nearby Terrasse Dufferin, a popular 425-metre-long boardwalk that divides the Upper from Lower Town. In summer, this hot spot is home to street buskers, in winter the Toboggan Run, and year-round to the statue of Samuel de Champlain, a French explorer who created the first settlement here back in 1608.
There are two ways to descend to Lower Town. Take the easy way via the Funicular, an elevator-type ride that quickly scales the stiff cliff-side. Or stretch your hamstrings and trek the many stairs. Yes, of course, we opt for the latter.
The perch on Côtes de la Montagne, provides us with a bird’s eye view of Quartier Petit-Champlain, North America’s oldest commercial district that touts 17th and 18th century buildings. We browse through bistros and boutiques that spill onto cobblestone streets, peek into Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, North America’s oldest stone church built in 1688 and pose with Jacques Cartier and other historical figures in front of 420-square-metre Trompe-l’oeil mural. Rue Sous-le-Cap, Québec’s narrowest street and former red-light district is just a block beyond, and a string of antique stores await at the foot of Rue St-Paul.
Before we hoof back up the hill, we give our feet a rest and rent a bike. The view from the cycling path that borders the St. Lawrence is spectacular and with just a little pedal power, we enjoy an entirely different perspective of quaint Old Québec.
IF YOU GO:
Where to stay:
Chateau Fleur de Lys – www.chateaufleurdelys.com
Where to dine:
Restaurant L’Omelette – 66 Rue Saint-Louis
Paillard – www.paillard.ca/home
Le Louis-Hébert – www.louishebert.com
Restaurant Parmesan – www.restaurantparmesan.com
D’Orsay – www.dorsayrestaurant.com/index.html
Things to do:
Tour the Citadelle – www.lacitadelle.qc.ca/en/
Tour the Parliament Building – www.assnat.qc.ca/en/visiteurs/visites-guidees.html
Rent a bike – www.cycloservices.net
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