“Peace! You never know what peace is until you walk on the shores or in the fields or along the winding red roads of Abegweit on a summer twilight when the dew is falling and the old, old stars are peeping out and the sea keeps its nightly tryst with the little land it loves. You find your soul then… you realize that youth is not a vanished thing but something that dwells forever in the heart.”
Lucy Maud Montgomery (1874-1942)
from: The Spirit of Canada
“So, how many lanes of traffic are there on that highway up in Toronto… believe it’s called the 401?” asked the inquisitive Prince Edward Island farmer. I had gotten to know this gentle soul after he had figured out that this strange “fella from away” (read: Ontario) ran past the bottom of his farm laneway every morning at precisely 11 a.m., just before he picked up his mail from a badly bruised rural mailbox on the other side of the road. We chatted each morning every summer, but this question caught me by surprise. I stumbled out a guess that perhaps there were 20 or more lanes on Highway 401. He glanced across the road to his mailbox, then back at me and said, “Helluva thing for a fella to get his mail!”
Now this was the same farmer who had been angered by the endless stream of tourists taking souvenir photos of his old homestead which, sadly, had fallen into a permanent state of disrepair. His solution to the picture-taking problem was to post a crudely printed “No Picture Taking” sign at the bottom of the same laneway. Inevitably, he was immediately plagued by more photographers, and one of those photographs eventually ended up on legions of coffee tables across the nation – on the cover of bestseller A Day in the Life of Canada.
The No Picture Taking sign and my farmer neighbour are now long gone, but we continued to spend our summers up the road in a little one-room schoolhouse we had bought on the North Shore of Abegweit, the name used by the Mi’kmaq Nation for Prince Edward Island. It was a magnificent location on an acre of emerald green grass overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Cavendish sand dunes and, like so many first-time visitors, it was love at first sight. We eventually outgrew the schoolhouse and purchased a neighbour’s shorefront farmhouse in anticipation of an eventual renovation, relocation from Ontario, and ultimate retirement.
Chef Michael Smith, a proud Islander, talented international Food Channel favourite, and local inn-keeper echoes Lucy Maud’s intimate spirit of place. He told me he calls PEI home because “we are simultaneously part of the past and the future. We’ve not lost track of our traditional community values, yet we’re solidly part of the world around us. We have our challenges, but they’re dwarfed by the special nature of our beautiful island.”
10 Reasons to Love Prince Edward Island
“As you look around on the dimming landscape of haunted hill and long white sand beach and murmuring ocean, on homestead lights and old fields tilled by dead and gone generations who loved them… you will say, ‘Why… I have come home.’”
–Lucy Maud Montgomery (1874-1942)
From: The Spirit of Canada
Now, after 15 years of permanent residence, this CFA (“Come From Away”) is home on the Island and feels very much like a local. Life on the Island has taught me that home is not a birthplace, it is an invention of the heart. Here are a few of the reasons we fell in love:
- Summers on the Island are idyllic – moderate temperatures are followed by a lengthy autumn lasting well into October and early November. Another neighbour once told me that September is the best month of all.
- Gentle pastoral landscapes across most of the Island are simply stunning: a reminder of England, where we lived and worked for several years.
- You are never far from the ocean, with all the benefits: splendid shorelines, sandy beaches, coastal drives, panoramic vistas and some of the best seafood in Canada – mussels, clams, oysters, lobster, scallops and more.
Peake’s Quay on the historic Charlottetown waterfront. Photo by Ian Carter. - If you are a foodie, this is an exceptional place to live with lots of seasonal produce, certified organic producers, an abundance of seafood, and excellent restaurants employing more than our share of talented chefs. The Island has long been known as The Garden of The Gulf and has now become a popular culinary destination for many visitors.
- Primary industries are agriculture and fishing with family and church still at the heart of many rural communities.
- Exciting new initiatives are driven by talented young entrepreneurs such as Sarah Bennetto O’Brien and Mitch Cobb and Mike Hogan. Chef Ilona Daniel is another one of our Island talents determined to create a healthy, vibrant community. Chef Ilona has travelled the world as the Island’s culinary ambassador and confides she loves “the way the PEI landscape has the innate ability to soothe the soul and refresh the spirit.”
- Island talent – every village has a small hall that shakes (those fiddlers and step dancers can be mighty!) with downhome ceilidhs in summer and fall. Charlottetown is home to The Guild and Confederation Centre of the Arts with its annual Summer Festival. I am convinced there is more talent per square metre on this Island than any other place in Canada.
- Real estate is still among the least expensive in Canada – many CFAs report that the cost of living is significantly less than many other parts of the country.
- Endless opportunities exist to volunteer in a variety of associations. You could have a very busy retirement, especially if you love lively discussions around all things political.
- Home is where the heart is, and this Island has plenty of huge hearts. The Guardian, our provincial newspaper, whose masthead reads “Covers The Island Like The Dew,” recently headlined “Fundraiser for Home Heating Program Draws Hundreds.” This is just one of many benefit concerts undeterred by serious winter storms in a community of caregivers.
PEI has the highest growth rate among the provinces, with folks from across Canada moving to the Island. Although Ontario accounts for most of these new arrivals, I was surprised to learn that folks from our “Left Coast” have also chosen to nest here. Former Vancouver residents like Shannon Bruyneer, Kent Czank and Donna Stevens have made the move. Calvin Porter told me he moved from the Fraser Valley in 2016 – he and his wife drove cross country with two cats and a dog, eventually settling in the tiny village of York. Calvin admits to the usual challenges but said “I love living on the Island – it feels like home.”
Reasons to love this place far outnumber the challenges. We came to learn that the Maritime climate can be difficult. Winters can be long and nor’easters fierce, and like all islands, wind is a constant. The pace is leisurely and that takes some getting used to, especially for urban folks. We learned to never be in a hurry.
We are a small province with a population slightly less than the city of Kelowna, BC. Like many small communities, a sense of isolation can be an issue for some rural folks. And I accept that I will always be “from away” – but that’s okay, it comes with benefits.
The Best of Prince Edward Island – Notes from a Local
These very personal recommendations are the result of several decades of pleasurable research. So, pack your bags and discover for yourself why PEI has just been ranked #2 on Condé Nast Traveler magazine’s list of “Top 5 Islands to Visit in North America” – you too may decide to stay awhile.
EAT:
Chef Michael Smith was quick to remind me that The Charlottetown Market is “an amazing way to find tasty local food and to stay connected to the roots of the food producing community we live within. Perhaps most importantly our Farmer’s Markets remind us that real people produce our food and we are at our best when we hear, taste and respect their stories.”
One of those real people is Lori Jaworski, who recently celebrated 25 years at the Charlottetown Market. Lori admits that she feels “like the luckiest girl in the world with my perogies business on PEI. Growing up on the prairies, I didn’t realize how deep my heritage was so firmly planted. I never imagined that my Polish roots would become established in the island red clay soil. My customers have become my community and my friends. What more could I ask for?” Incidentally, her cabbage rolls aren’t so bad either… and they freeze perfectly.
The Summerside Market is a community event every Saturday morning. There’s a good chance you will meet local character and free-range pork farmer, Ranald MacFarlane, for a tasty selection of sausages and bacon, and a dose of local politics. And while you’re in town, be sure to visit Holman’s Ice Cream Parlour, a favourite destination for homemade gourmet ice cream.
For a downhome treat, drive out to the wharf at Covehead to popular Richard’s Seafood Eatery for some of the best fish and chips you will ever taste. There’s no entry fee to the National Park if you mention Richard’s but plan to be hungry a little outside the usual meal times since lines can be lengthy. Grab a table on the patio of this fish shanty and enjoy great views across the busy lobster harbour.
DRINK:
Carr’s Oyster Bar:
Owner Phyllis Carr is our award-winning oyster shucker and, if you’re looking for a lesson, she’s your shucker! Killer views across Stanley Bridge are another reason to stop a while.
Sou’ West Bar and Grill:
This operation shares New London Wharf with lobster boats, good food, local beer and wines all served up on an exceptional deck. New London Bay at sunset will make your trip worthwhile.
Hopyard:
Locals love Mike Ross’ Charlottetown bistro that showcases craft beers, exceptional pub food and vinyl. The concept is so successful they have recently opened a new operation in Halifax. I’m certain Mike would agree with Benjamin Franklin’s brilliant observation that “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Copper Bottom Brewing:
A trip “Down East” has to include a stop at Montague’s newest craft brewery in their renovated former firehall. Head to the shore to enjoy the lobster rolls and lovely views on the deck at Point Prim Chowder House.
PLAY:
Beaches:
They’re everywhere, and I have made it my mission to find the best: winners include Cousins’ Shore, Basin Head, and Greenwich in the National Park, but explore and find your own. Reminder: play it safe – most Island beaches are unsupervised and rip tides can be dangerous.
Celebrate Our Heritage:
Spend a day in Charlottetown exploring Canada’s Birthplace. The country was conceived here in 1864 during the historic Charlottetown Conference. Legend has it that the Fathers of Confederation brought 17 liquid tonnes of champagne with them to celebrate the occasion. This little city still knows how to party.
Charlottetown Festival:
Mama Mia! shares the 2019 main stage with popular Anne of Green Gables – The Musical, the world’s longest running annual musical theatre production, now in its record-setting 55th season. If your children or grandchildren haven’t seen Anne, do them a big favour. They won’t be disappointed, and neither will you.
INDULGE:
Fall Flavours:
Consider a September visit during the annual Fall Flavours Festival. This series of culinary events features a potpourri of celebrity chefs across the Island. Last year, my tasting menu included Le Festin Acadien Avec Homard, Beef ’n Blues, Toe Taps and Taters, and The Great Island Grilled Cheese Challenge. Book early for Fall Flavours 2019.
Several other restaurants deserve special attention.
Blue Mussel Café:
This casual bistro is just off the main road at the water’s edge in North Rustico… the best seafood perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. Welcoming staff and seamless service.
Terre Rouge Bistro Marche:
Good chefs love what they do, and award-winning Chef Lucy Morrow has passion in abundance. TR works well as a French bistro in Charlottetown – sit back and sip a glass of wine while you explore an expansive blackboard menu of well-prepared comfort foods.
Fireworks Feast at The Inn of Bay Fortune:
Chef Michael Smith and his wife, Chastity, fire up a world-class cookout – a feast for the ages – at their charming five-star country inn, about an hour’s drive east of Charlottetown. Book early for this ultimate indulgence.
In Charlottetown, It’s Sims for steaks and oysters, The Gahan for pub grub, and the Water-Prince Corner Shop and Lobster Pound (902-368-3212) for some of the best chowder and shellfish in town. And don’t miss The Chip Shack at Peake’s Quay where “The Queen of Fries” holds court with her home-cut Island fries and lobster rolls.
Ian Carter is a retired educator and mental health professional, published author, freelance writer, photographer, and inveterate world traveller. He welcomes contact at: heritagematters@bellaliant.net
IF YOU GO:
PEI Prince Edward Island: www.tourismpei.com
Charlottetown Festival: www.confederationcentre.com/en/
Fall Flavours 2019: www.fallflavours.ca
PEI International Shellfish Festival: http://peishellfish.com/en
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A retired educator and mental health professional, published author, inveterate world traveller, freelance writer and photographer. He welcomes contact by email.
I visited PEI many years ago and fell in love with the island. Thanks for reminding me why!