Bremen may be at the end of Germany’s Fairy Tale Road, but it was the beginning of liberty in the region and remains a Free Hanseatic City today.
Regarded as a state-city, as are Hamburg and Berlin, Bremen is also a Free Hanseatic City (Freie Handestadt), which pertains to its autonomy and association in a centuries-old, medieval mercantile alliance. The prosperous Hanseatic League served to protect trade routes of Northern European settlements and was never officially disbanded.
As we strolled through the archaically charming Market Square, we stopped to admire the magnificent Gothic Town Hall with its Renaissance façade. In front of the 15th century structure stood the nine-metre high sandstone statue of Knight Roland with a raised sword and shield; this year is the 1,290th anniversary of his death (in 778). As Emperor Charlemagne’s nephew and right-hand man, he became a symbol of civic rights and privileges. Bremeners believe their independence and freedom will persist as long as their Roland statue stands. “For the Hanseatic cities, he is the symbol for independence and liberty,” said local tour guide Jurgen Hoppe. “He was carefully encased in wood, sand and then bricks to protect him from the bombing during World War II.”
For his 600th birthday, Roland received a festive celebration in the town square, and in the summer of 2004, an UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. Along with the Town Hall, they will “bear an exceptional testimony to civic autonomy and sovereignty, as they developed in the Holy Roman Empire.” Another symbol of freedom is a Grimm Brother’s fairy tale: The Town Musicians of Bremen (1819). The Town Musicians (Stadtmusikanten) are not people but rather four animals (donkey, dog, cat and rooster). A sculpted monument of the four standing on each others’ backs is situated on the west side of the Rathaus (Town Hall). Other interpretations of the statue can be found in the historic quarter of Bremen. Jim Henson even produced a television special titled: The Muppet Musicians of Bremen (1972).
As the story goes, the Town Musicians were animals threatened with death at home and then departed. They met one another en route to become musicians and live in freedom in Bremen. I noticed the front legs of the donkey seemed a more polished bronze and discovered this was due to people rubbing its legs and making a wish. Apparently, this would bring one good fortune.
On the same side of the Rathaus is the Ratskeller (Town Hall cellar) restaurant. Known as the “appetizing foundation,” the 600-year-old wine cellar lists more than 650 different German varieties. Not only did it house the largest variety of German wines in the country, it reputedly has the oldest wine worldwide. I had the opportunity to sample an ancient vintage from 1653, offered by Wine Meister, Gunter Meyer. I guess by grasping the Town Musician monument, it really did bring me luck.
This large barrel almost did not survive World War II. During the American occupation, the area was used as headquarters for the military. Over a three-year period, they consumed more than 400,000 bottles. When the officers came across this “old wine,” they thought the barrels may be contaminated due to their age. “So, the vaults were sealed with thousands of barrels intact,” Gunter said with a grin. Thank goodness there were no oenophiles in command during those years.
To experience the essence of this Handstadt (Hanseatic Town), we explored the historic districts. Wending our way along the cobblestone streets, we stopped to admire a large golden embossed image on an archway above Bottcherstrasse. This gold relief panel is named Lichtbringer “light bringer,” installed by the Nazis in 1936 to signify Hitler leading the nation out of “darkness.”
Local merchant, Ludwig Roseliu, owned this section of town and was a Nazi sympathizer. However, his art and architecture were officially denounced as “degenerate art” by Hitler. Nevertheless, as the inventor of decaffeinated coffee, his product was promoted by the Nazi Party as a state policy. They advocated the avoidance of stimulants, safeguarding the idolized Aryan race.
The pedestrian walkway was inhabited by coopers, barrel-makers and assorted artisans. The architectural arrangements of traditional red brick and modern expressionist structures offer contrasting and interesting building perspectives. I noticed a life-like interpretation of the Town Musicians in front of a store. Also, down the alleyway, one can find a carillon that chimes three times daily as different explorers are revealed as it revolves.
Meandering along the walkways, we arrived at the oldest city section, the Schnoor quarter. This historic district is nowadays a popular tourist attraction with a surfeit of superb shops. Fairy tale traces dot the crooked lanes and quaint courtyards with various replicas of Grimm Brothers’ Town Musicians and even a store named Rapunzel, with the applicable braided blonde hair on the sign, are present. “Rapunzel had magnificent long hair, fine as spun gold, and when she heard the voice of the enchantress she unfastened her braided tresses…” as the tale goes.
Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm were patriots determined to preserve Germanic folk tales. Often cruel and capricious, their tales have fallen prey to propagandists. Theorists of the Third Reich believe that “Little Red Riding Hood” (Rotkäppchen) was a symbol of the German people, saved from the evil Jewish Wolf. At the end of World War II, Allied commanders banned the publication of Grimm tales in Germany believing they had contributed to Nazi savagery. Contrary to this belief, Walt Disney had released animated adaptations of the Grimm’s tales. The Brothers Grimm (2005) was also a film adventure about the legendary storytellers, starring Matt Damon and Heath Ledger.
In the middle-ages, it was common for merchants and residents to stockpile various grains in their attics. In order to allow the owls to prey on the rodents feasting on their food supply, a hole was cut in the attic’s façade as an owls’ entrance. Several of those existing today are not only practical, but decorative. Similarly, cats are also a popular symbol with their ability to diminish the rat population. As you stroll the streets, you can see the owl or cat on overhanging signs for shops and restaurants throughout Bremen.
The city symbol since 1041 is a key, which is representative of St. Peter waiting at the Gates of Paradise. A golden skeleton key is omni-present and can be seen embossed or emblazoned on entities throughout Bremen. Even the final fairy tale in the Brothers Grimm collection was a short parable-like story called “The Golden Key.”
We found it refreshing to witness the liberal attitude of the Bremeners, who advocate the principles of freedom and tolerance in their historic fairy tale town.
IF YOU GO:
www.bremen.de
www.cometogermany.com
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