A Mediterranean cruise offers an extraordinary overview of early civilizations. Adding extra days in the heart of Athens, our initial investigations feature the glorious temples of the Acropolis.
And in the new three-story Acropolis museum, we peruse wondrous Greek golden age art.
Another day’s walk focuses on the Roman district admiring Hadrian’s ornamental gate and Jupiter’s immense temple. Then, after browsing Plaka’s little shops, we head to nearby Piraeus and board our ship. Settled in a spacious cabin, we choose 10 enticing port excursions.
From the port of Athens, our first venture on a comfy motorcoach winds northeast past historic Marathon and Thebes to Delphi, perched on Mount Parnassus. Zigzagging up the Sacred Way, we behold the legendary stone Zeus threw around the world, marking Delphi as a sacred vortex. White marble columns identify Apollo’s temple, consecrated by his slaying of a python. Here, middle-aged oracles intoxicated by laurel leaves spoke garbled “advice” to others; priests interpreted their gibberish as divine, prophetic puzzles. Etched on temple walls, 47 maxims – including know thyself – endure as Delphi’s true wisdom.
Honouring Apollo, Delphi’s Pythian games began at the mountainside amphitheatre; poets, musicians and dancers staged performances for over 5,000 attendees. Development of the games continued. At the now crumbling stadium, everyone can imagine early athletes in competition: hurling discs, throwing javelins, running, jumping, wrestling and boxing.
Back aboard, flutes of champagne toast our 15-day voyage. Gently rocked to sleep, tasty breakfasts fuel the next morning’s excursion. Unlike larger ships, the elegant Viking Star easily docks at Mykonos, facilitating our transfer onto a nearby ferry.
Shuttled to Delos Sanctuary, our walk passes the ruins of the gymnasium and agora once serving 40,000 inhabitants. Nearby, a 7th century BC temple celebrates the birth of Apollo and twin sister Artemis in a nearby lake. Villas in the theatre district reveal marble-columned courtyards enclosing remnants of statuary, murals and decorative mosaic floors. House of Dionysus pictures wine god Dionysus riding a panther; House of Masks displays several of his mischievous faces.
Being arid, households collected rainwater in cisterns under their beautiful mosaic floors. The island’s main water source was a 300 BC reservoir found adjacent to the nearby amphitheatre. Built by Egyptian and Assyrian merchants, mountainside temples venerating Isis and Baal stand above. This amazing cosmopolitan trade centre had flourished almost 3,000 years ago.
In Rhodes, a revered acropolis inspires travel to Lindos. Hiking past village shops, chapel and homes, we wind up a steep trail leading to a stone gateway. Inside, we see a large 180 BC rock carving of a Rhodian trireme warship. Stairs take us up into a crusader-built castle. Its courtyard and a dim-lit room once covered votives, gifts for Athena Lindia. Emerging onto a terrace, 42 lofty columns outline a Portico that then sheltered pilgrims.
A stairway rises upward, as if ascending into heaven. Reaching the top, another shorter stairway accesses a sanctuary long predating Athens’ own acropolis. Two rows of four columns outline Temple of Athena Lindia. Two fixtures remain atop its platform: a stone base, once holding the goddess’s gold-capped statue, and marble altar. Animal sacrifices seem doubtful, as remnants of charcoal or blood were never found. Evidence of wicker baskets for produce further suggest that Athena Lindia was a vegetarian.
In Cypress, a motorcoach takes us to Aphrodite’s fabled birthplace. “Her presence makes this beach very popular. Some come to swim around that offshore isle, believing every lap reduces their age by one year!” our guide grins. “Like to take a dip?”
Israel’s Ports of Ashdod and Haifa offer trips to Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Acre, Galilee, Masada and Tel Aviv. During our travels, local tour guides highlight high-tech industries, innovative farming and harmonious multi-cultural communities.
South of Haifa, Caesarium reflects King Herod’s new “Romanized” city, complete with aqueducts, bathhouses, fountains… and public urinals. His sumptuous palace even includes bathing pools, recalling his lifestyle in the city he’d built and dedicated to Caesar. The Romans also enhanced familiar Greek structures such as its amphitheatre. Rabbis notably forbade attendance at pagan events there. Indicating a respect for Rome, a nearby limestone block contains Pontius Pilate’s inscribed tribute to Emperor Tiberius.
At sea, passengers like us attend historians’ thought-provoking presentations delving into Greek, Judean and Roman cultures… and watch similarly insightful programs on cabin televisions. In every dining area, complimentary wine accompanies delicious gourmet meals, including traditional foods of visited cultures. One onboard restaurant serves scrumptious Italian cuisine; another offers experiences pairing wines with several courses of palate pleasers. In the upper lounge, we join teams to test our collective brain trivia. These contests generate thoughtful discussions and jolly camaraderie.
From Naples, many shipmates visit Pompeii; we visit smaller Herculaneum. From a lofty viewpoint, Herculaneum’s excavated AD 79 neighbourhoods seem remarkably intact. Mount Vesuvius’s eruption buried – and preserved – both Roman ports. Descending a tunnel and crossing a bridge, we start at the wharf where skeletons sprawl under former boathouse archways.
In an upper plaza, a public fountain sports a spout fashioned as a bearded mouth; another, a lovely gowned woman. Their water flowed continuously, flushing the streets. Inside the public bathhouse, black-and-white tile floors conjure porpoises, a sea goddess and octopus. One “fast-food” eatery, known as a thermidor, still features its marble heating table and stew pots. Terracotta wine and olive oil jars line the fragmented wall.
Among the elegant villas, the dining room in House of Neptune and Amphitrite showcases an exquisite glass mosaic of this mythic couple. Mother of pearl frames hunting scenes; marble theatrical masks decorate an alcove. Beyond, Hall of the Augustales represents a wealthy fellowship that organized imperial events. Central columns retain pedestals for Julius and Augustus Caesars’ statues. An alcove fresco pictures Hercules seated beside Juno, Queen of Gods, and Minerva, Goddess of Wisdom. Another shows Hercules battling for Deianira’s love.
From Citavechia, we visit Ostia, Rome’s major port until AD 300. The lavish redbrick Baths of Neptune demonstrate Ostia’s wealth and importance. Restored mosaic floors picture hippocampi, horse-like sea creatures pulling Neptune’s chariot amid swirling dolphins, sea nymphs, armed tritons and freakish serpents. In other chambers, wife Amphitrite rides another hippocampus, naked gymnasts box and wrestle.
Among other impressive buildings, a two-storied thermidor features a marble counter, wall menu and stone benches lining a courtyard. Close by, a 2nd century, three-tiered amphitheatre proves equally upscale. Behind, waterfront warehouse floors convey port images including: a lighthouse, numerous sea creatures and triangular-sailed galleys.
A lane under Roman archways takes us to an industrial-sized bakery. Donkey hoof tracks mark stony floors. One chamber contains 10 basalt millstones; another, large lava bowls slotted for kneading blades; a third, an immense wood-fired oven. An alcove mural pictures several gods, well placed for help in creating divine bread!
Worldly Ostia embraced and respected diverse religions. Large forum temples honour Roman gods Jupiter, Juno, Minerva, Victoria and Emperor Augustus. Additional temples recognize Anatolian goddess Magma Mater, Attis, god of vegetation and Judaic Jehovah. And one chapel acclaims Christ. A small onsite museum exhibits other deities as artwork, including our favourite: a sublime white marble sculpture of Cupid and Amor kissing.
Our daily activities have sparked contemplations of the distant past. Surveying beliefs, lifestyles and advancements of early civilizations, we return home with insights into their enduring cultures… and renewed hope for humanity.
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