During this visit to Canada’s East Coast, I’m not surprised to find out that the Bay of Fundy is one of North America’s seven wonders. The 320-kilometre-long waterway divides the province of Nova Scotia from New Brunswick and is home to rare whales, semi-precious minerals and the world’s highest tides. The amount of daily water that goes in and out of this geological wonder surpasses the combined flow of all the freshwater rivers on our planet. Yes, this gem has deservedly earned the accolades.
Although we could join others and kayak the island-speckled bays, where seals and porpoises hang out, or hop on a zodiac ride for whale of a time, we decide to view the craggy coastlines, dramatic rock faces and other local treasures while being grounded to Mother Earth. Here are three of our favourite tromping spots.
THE FUNDY TRAIL PARKWAY
This 2,559-hectare playground and parkway in New Brunswick is a short drive from the quaint seaside town of St. Martins. A 19km winding roadway that weaves over the rugged terrain and loops around the picturesque coast is host to 20 scenic outlooks, and each one is steeped with visual rewards. Some boast vistas of steep-sided cliffs, others scalloped beaches, and many with picnic tables where you can relax and drink in beautiful backdrops of the immense Fundy Bay.
Over our three-hour visit, we cling to a cabled ladder that descends the steep hillside near Fuller Falls, jostle over an 84-metre suspension bridge that spans Salmon River, check out the interpretive centre where there’s an overview of this area’s once-thriving, long-gone logging community, trek to Flower Pot Rocks, an intriguing flora-topped, rocky column that was created by years of erosive tidal force and hike a few of the many trails that loop around this lovely landscape. And while we’re led through second-growth stands, across boardwalks and bridges and down steps to expansive sandy strips, heartier hikers choose to hoof the Fundy Footpath, a jaunt that’s less travelled but acclaimed by Explore Magazine to be one of the 50 best hikes in the world. This challenging walk-in-the-wilderness hugs the coastline and threads through this pretty parkway all the way to our next must-see: the neighbouring Fundy National Park.
Dining recommendation: Sea Side Restaurant – “Award Winning CHOWDER” is posted in bold lettering over this diner’s entrance-way, and that’s what you’ll get along with a front row ocean view. You can’t miss it on Bay Road in St. Martins.
FUNDY NATIONAL PARK
Calling all campers, swimmers, beachcombers and birdwatchers. This recreation icon offers something for everyone, especially us hikers! Twelve kilometres of shoreline rims this verdant oasis and 120 kilometres of trails meander through it – ranging in everything from easy-peasy loops to a 50-kilometre pulse-raiser. Some squiggle through forest thickets, others lead to empty beaches, a few along tranquil riverbeds.
With a yearning to traipse by a waterfall (of which there are 25 to choose from) we go with the most accessible one in the park, a 1.5km circular route that takes us to Dickson Falls. A lengthy boardwalk stretches out beyond a Fundy Shore lookout and leads us through a Hansel-and-Gretel-feel forest to a cool, lush valley. Instead of breadcrumbs, like in the childhood fairy tale, interpretive signs direct our way. And our final reward? No, not to a candy-coated witch’s house, but those beautiful cascading falls.
Although not nearly as whimsical, our second jaunt for the day, Matthew’s Head, is a trail that combines the park’s natural beauty and cultural history. From Herring Cove Road, we wander through a forest grove to an old wagon road where there are remnants of a nineteenth century homestead. Up until 1974 this area was known as the local potato farm and experiments of the crops led to the Shepody potato, one of the preferred varieties that we’ve recently enjoyed beneath our poutine. Beyond, is (once again) that picturesque Bay of Fundy along with more of those floral top rocks. As pretty as they are, we soon discover this is just a sampling of what’s in store at our next and final Fundy must-see, the popular tourist stop of Hopewell Rocks.
Dining recommendation: Collins Lobster Shop in Alma – You can’t come to this neck of the woods without putting on a bib and digging into some lobster. Take your pick from this shop’s big holding tank and enjoy!
HOPEWELL ROCKS
It’s a good idea to check the tidal charts before venturing to this favourite Fundy haunt. Because of its location, at the farthest end of this massive bay, this is where you’ll witness the greatest tidal fluctuation. If you come at high tide make sure to bring along your kayak or row boat, as the water level can rise as high as a five-storey building. If you arrive at low tide, like a drained bathtub, this empty basin reveals a line-up of spectacular sandstone formations that have been carved by the tidal action over thousands of years. An informative visitors centre provides us with more in-depth explanation and overview, and scaffolding-like stairs take us from the upper trails and viewing platform to the sandy ocean floor below. From here, we gaze up at eroded cliffs, wander beneath rocky archways, pose in front of animal-shaped sea stacks and breathe in the salty air while strolling the two-kilometre sandy beach. It’s hard to believe that after the tide comes in all these amazing monoliths will be submerged, with only their green flower tops visible. And it’s even harder to imagine that this happens not just once a day, but every six hours.
But then again, this is the awe-inspiring Bay of Fundy and one of North America’s seven wonders.
Dining recommendation: Tides Restaurant – Ocean views are a given from any seat in this diner. The Seafood linguini is loaded with fresh shellfish, and the lobster stuffed chicken breast is out of this world.
If You Go:
Bay of Fundy Tourism: http://bayoffundytourism.com/
Sea Side Restaurant, 506-833-2394.
Collins Lobster Shop, 20 Ocean Dr, Alma, 506-887-2054, www.thankfultoo.com/alma/
Tides Restaurant, 8601 Main Street, Alma, 506-887-2313, www.parklandvillageinn.com/dining-choices/tides-restaurant/
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