A LOOK AT PARADISE

This legendary island beckons 1.5 million travellers annually from around the world. Characterized by a coastline punctuated with natural beauty, this magical island has pearl-white powdery soft sand beaches, coral reefs brimming with jewel-coloured marine life, and warm, translucent turquoise water lapping at its shoreline.

Powdery soft sand beach in Zanzibar. Photo: Linda Blair

Relatively new on the world tourist map, watersport enthusiasts flock here for excellent scuba diving, snorkelling, sailing, kayaking, kitesurfing, and deep-sea fishing. Located just 40 km off the Tanzanian coastline lies the island of Zanzibar, once known as the “Spice Island.”

Relaxation can be found here in several ways and places. Luxuriate at a spa, enjoy a sunset dinner aboard a traditional dhow, or merely relish the simplicities of nature’s gifts.

Bask in the radiance of a pink and crimson sky, as the sun leisurely sinks below the horizon. For the more adventurous, you will find an abundance of varied water sports and optional tours to further explore this enchanting island with its welcoming and hospitable locals. It is hard to believe this now idyllic and hypnotic island with such warm and friendly inhabitants so eager to please has such a dark, turbulent, and sorrowful saga.

Slave Memorial in Stone Town. Photo: Linda Blair

Full of character and rich in colour, Stone Town’s roots are deeply embedded in history. Stone Town became a major trading centre along the caravan trail for traders from other parts of the world looking for spices, ivory, and slaves. An estimated 100,000 elephants annually were poached for their ivory. Some tusks so large it took four men to carry just one.

However, even with poaching of elephants rampant and ivory in high demand (one elephant equalled 45 pianos), slaves soon took over as the top commodity. Approximately 50,000 were enslaved and said to have been abducted from the Ivory Coast and carted away to Zanzibar annually aboard slave ships filled to capacity. With no regard for safety or wellbeing of the cargo, the many who died along the journey were simply tossed overboard. Documentation of the chaos and brutality of the abuse inflicted upon enslaved people can be found in the local museum.

Masai Tribesman guide. Photo: Linda Blair

Extensively documented, Dr. David Livingstone was appalled by the slave trade, and what he witnessed on the island. He played an important role in working towards abolishing the “African Slave Trade.”

Today, the Anglican church sits on the original site of the Town Square where the auctions took place. Located next to the church, a Memorial displays life-size figures chained and collared, standing in a pit with expressions that appear to be rooted in pain.

Inside the museum next to the Memorial, you will find, chronicled in detail, the fascinating history of the slave trade and eventual abolishment. The museum is recommended for a better understanding of the history.

Zanzibar survived this fierce and turbulent time, and the resilience of the islands’ ancestors stands as nothing short of remarkable.

Stone Town has now become the pulsating heart of Zanzibar, a well-preserved and intact UNESCO World Heritage Site. A walking tour of the old city will soon have you strolling through a maze of stone-paved streets and alleyways. Colourful shops stand shoulder to shoulder with lively restaurants, bustling bazaars, and historical sites alike. The original house where famed musician Freddie Mercury lived with his grandmother still stands proudly.

Along the winding cobblestone streets, you will encounter numerous 200-year-old stone and coral houses, which have ornate Arabic or Indian doors. Some still have spikes on the outside to “keep out wandering elephants” according to my guide. Not much has changed here in the last two centuries. You can see where the hands of different cultures have connected across time in the architecture with Indian, Arabic, Portuguese, and Persian influences.

Evidence of a strong Islamic culture can be seen in the 50-plus mosques throughout the city, from where the call to prayer can be heard five times each day.

Freshly picked nutmeg. Photo: Linda Blair

Tembo House Hotel, built in 1854 originally as an embassy, shines through as the crowning jewel of Stone Town. Decorated with antique furniture, historical artifacts, and photos throughout brands this hotel as both interesting and informative. Situated on the waterfront and conveniently located close to many shops and historical sites, this boutique hotel makes a great place for a stop-over.

Local fishermen set sail at sundown as they did centuries ago with their nets and lamps, for a night of fishing. Gliding back in the early morning hours, brimming with fish, the bounty is sold first to hotels and restaurants, while the remains go to open markets. The lively Darajani Market opened in 1904, and here locals continue to haggle for fish, meat, produce and spices.

With no shortage of spice plantations on the island, you may want to plan a visit to discover what various spices look like prior to making their way into kitchens around the world. You will find plenty to keep you guessing.

For instance, the lipstick tree produces a red fury little pod with a soft seed inside. When opened, squashed, then applied to the lips, the colour appears orange but quickly changes to red when reacting with the skin’s natural oils.

Pepper trees produce pure forms of green and black pepper, whereas white and red are processed. Lemongrass stands tall and appears like sugar cane. The scent, however, quickly identifies itself. Available for sampling or to purchase, you will find vanilla beans, cinnamon bark, mint, cardamom and nutmeg, to name just a few. Many spices have heady aromas and can be easily identified from the scent.

Cloves have now become the principal export from the island. Spice plantations also grow a variety of seasonal tropical fruits, such as jackfruit, starfruit, pineapple, durian, coconuts, mangos, papaya and, of course, bananas.

Today, Zanzibar has become a mecca for people seeking relaxation in the lap of luxury at sprawling five-star resorts. Smaller boutique-style resorts have also become popular in recent years for those who want to avoid large and sometimes over-crowded resorts.

Warm, turquoise water gently laps against powder-soft, sandy beaches with gently swaying majestic palms. Romantic dinners under the stars, and luxuriant spa treatments are at your fingertips. Total relaxation could find you gently swaying in a hammock to the tune of waves lapping against the shore, or perhaps an escape in a Dhow at sunset. Watersports abound, so whatever your style or measure of relaxation may be, you will surely find it on the island of Zanzibar.

While unwinding poolside under the shade of an umbrella, I met the heavily-accented Jackie from New York who regaled me with her life stories. She was travelling with her adult son, Josh, from California, whose budding carrier in the movie industry made them a most intriguing pair to chat with. To see Josh’s devotion to his mother’s needs and happiness was endearing.

As we sat and chatted, we could hear many foreign languages being spoken all around us. I realized in that moment, why even a few simple words spoken in Swahili was enough to bring a smile, and sometimes even a look of amazement, to the faces of staff and locals alike. My guide, Wilfred, confirmed that very few people say anything more than “Jambo” (hello) so when someone tries to learn a few words in their language (even if not grammatically correct), it is much appreciated.

It does not take much effort to put a beautiful smile on someone’s face. Sometimes it’s not just about the destination or the journey, but rather the people you meet along the way.

While we chatted, the beat of African music could be heard in the background, and the fragrant scent of frangipani wafted through the air. I believe I have found a little slice of paradise on the island of Zanzibar.

Linda A. Blair is a freelance travel writer and photographer.

IF YOU GO – ZANZIBAR

Many international airlines fly into the major cities of Tanzania with connecting flights to Zanzibar

Precision Air: www.precisionairtz.com Book your short flight from mainland Tanzania to Zanzibar. Precision Air offers several affordable, daily flights from Arusha, Kilimanjaro, or Dar es Salaam airports.

Island Express Tours: www.islandexpress.co.tz
Island Express Tours have many itineraries to choose from. Book your Zanzibar adventure from airport pick-up to transportation and tours.

Tembo House Hotel, Stone Town: 255 779 413 348 – Can book through Trip Advisor
Heritage hotel featuring antique furniture, artifacts, and décor from around the world. Features private beach, swimming pool, restaurant, close to shops and historical sites.

Forodhani Park Hotel, Stone Town: www.forodhaniparkhotel.com/
Comfortable Moroccan-influenced boutique hotel. Short walk to beach, rooftop pool patio area. Serves daily breakfast.

Dream of Zanzibar Resort, member of The Emerald Collection: 255 759 598 888 – Can book through Trip Advisor
Five-star, all-inclusive resort including some villas with private pool, variety of dining options and three bars.

Pongwe Beach Hotel: www.pongwe.com/pongwe/contact-us/
Comfortable thatched-roof cottages with spacious open patio to the beach, gourmet meals served daily in central dining room.

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