The shrill sound of the alarm pierces the darkness, and my peaceful slumber abruptly ends. I clear the cobwebs from my mind while fighting my way out of the mosquito netting that encircles the bed. Propelled by the realization that I am on the brink of an amazing day of discovery and adventure, a slight shiver comes over me. A loud rap on the door at 4 a.m. sharp signals it’s time to leave the warmth and comfort of my bungalow and climb into the waiting Jeep.
While rumbling down the dusty dirt road with high beams slicing through the black night, a hippo suddenly trots across the road directly in front of the Jeep. A sharp crank to the left avoids a near collision. Moments later, a giraffe appears out of nowhere and gallops alongside us. Just as quickly as it appeared, it veers to the right and fades into the vast inky pool of darkness. “Am I dreaming?” I ask myself. The constant bouncing and careening of the vehicle along with the tautness of the seat belt cutting and pulling into my shoulder, tell me I am not.
Upon arrival at the lift-off site, preparations are underway to fill the hot air balloon. Cheers! A champagne toast traditionally jump-starts the flight. Nervous, yet filled with wondrous anticipation, I climb aboard the balloon and buckle into the harness as instructed. While the balloon rises, streaks of lilac and magenta can be seen across the early morning sky as dawn slowly but passionately kisses the horizon. The explosion of colour that follows exposes a vast and stark landscape with sweeping views of the golden-coloured Serengeti, unchanged for centuries. Drinking in the beauty and serenity of the commanding vastness leaves me speechless. Aloft in a hot air balloon undoubtedly offers a unique perspective of the African vista with its endless horizon.
Silently drifting across the clear African sky, the silence is broken only by the sound of a pod of hippos beneath us. The pilot brings the balloon lower to get a closer look. A pod of about 20 hippos is snorting and jostling for space in a churning muddy pond. These hippos will spend the day in the cool water to protect their thin, hairless skin from the burning rays of the sun, and will graze only under the cover of night. Capable of snapping a crocodile in half, one dominant hippo stretches his powerful jaw, which causes others to make way. An assault on the senses, the odour these ponds produce can be overwhelming. Upward we go once more.
A troop of baboons can be seen trekking across the savannah floor in search of the next watering hole, while graceful giraffes rustle the leaves of Acacia trees. Giraffes cope well during the dry season, as they feed from the top branches of the thorny trees. The dark blue colour of their 18-inch-long tongue acts as a sun protector, and their antiseptic saliva coats any thorns they may swallow. A small herd of Thompson’s Gazelles can be seen in the shadow of the balloon beneath us, as they follow their leader along the path to water.
Wildebeest are seen interspersed with thousands of other animals and appear to be leaders of the herds. All wildebeest cows give birth over a two-to-three-week period in January and February. Evidence of the strength and resilience of this animal lies in the fact that they find their legs in two to three minutes after birth and become capable of running with the herd within 10 minutes. Many losses incur during this time due to the lions and hyenas that follow the herds, however, fatalities would be far greater if birthing transpired over a longer period.
Animals are capable of hearing thunderous storms from as far as 48 km away and wildebeest are known to travel only to where the best grasses grow. Within weeks, grasslands turn brown after the rains, yet the herds continue to follow the wildebeest. Eventually, they complete the circuit back to the short grass plains, as far as 1,600 km away. Stealthily trailing behind the herds, you will see prides of lions lurking and patiently waiting for their chance to claim a meal. Hyenas, known as notorious scavengers, follow the lions.
As the sun rises in the sky, our highly skilled Canadian pilot (from Ottawa) slowly and gently begins our descent back to earth’s floor. With a smooth landing and very little drag, the balloon settles once again on the ground. A hearty breakfast will soon be served under the shade of Acacia trees, complete with champagne and lavish Out of Africa style service. However, the day is young and after breakfast there’s time for a game drive before returning to camp.
Famed Serengeti National Park in Tanzania covers more than 9,100 square kms and supports an estimated annual migration of 1.5 million wildebeest, 250,000 zebras, along with a healthy stock of resident wildlife. This park boasts the largest concentration of animals and claims to be the best place to search for the “Big Five.”
Within Serengeti sits Ngorongoro Crater. The world-famous crater, believed to have formed two to three million years ago, claims top spot as Tanzania’s major drawing card for wildlife viewing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, 20 kms wide covering 260 square kms all within the towering walls, makes this the largest volcanic crater in the world. The crater floor consists mainly of open grass and bushland, with Ngoitokitok Spring being the major water source. However, with smaller but equally important sources of water throughout this crater, you will surely witness some spectacular events.
More than 25,000 animals call this volcanic crater basin home. Regrettably, the black rhino succumbed to dwindling numbers due to rampant poaching. Nevertheless, you may be lucky enough to spot that elusive rhino roaming this crater floor. Here, wildlife drama unfurls daily while endless herds of wildebeest and zebra graze alongside elephants, giraffes, and gazelles. Predictably, lions, leopards and other predators vigilantly follow behind. Dense bush and tall grasses make it ideal for the large number of tree-climbing cats that reside here.
While sitting well back of a water hole observing the animals as they approach, my guide, Wakara, silently passes the binoculars and points to the moving grasses near one end of the pond. We sit, watch, and wait.
All appears calm around the water hole, as a menagerie of wildlife gathers. Giraffes with long legs bent at the knees, constantly look this way and that. Fat warthogs with deadly tusks cautiously seek a way in, and zebras cavort in the water once their thirst has been satisfied.
Abruptly, chaos erupts with agitated shrieking, and sudden flight of birds from surrounding trees. Animals madly run in every direction. Like a bolt of lightning, a zebra on the outer fringe makes a desperate run for it but finds herself out-matched by three lionesses who effectively drive her into their snare, and down she goes. The lions’ feast begins. A gut-wrenching enactment for sure, yet deeply moving, and an extraordinary spectacle to witness.
With the temperature beginning to soar, we turn toward camp for some well-deserved relief from the heat and excitement of the day. Once, I could only dream of getting close enough to see, smell, and observe these animals.
Throughout Tanzania, I was fortunate to be accompanied by an extremely knowledgeable and most capable team whose great sense of timing, charm and humour made my lifelong dream come true. During my stay in various locations, accommodations ranged from tented camps to ecologically constructed lodges camouflaged in cascading vines, to traditional rondavels that appeared to be clinging to the ragged edge of the crater. Camp and hotel staff, as well as trackers and drivers, were all so helpful and eager to please. It made this a most memorable trip.
I saw the Big Five and so much more. The strength and magnificence of the animals I saw and learned about, as well as my amazing guide who taught me to spot and name many of the animals I photographed, made this a deeper, richer and most extraordinary experience; one I will cherish and remember for a lifetime.
Linda A. Blair is a travel writer and photographer.
IF YOU GO
Serengeti Balloon Safaris: www.balloonsafaris.com
E-Mail: balloons@balloonsafaris.co.tz
Serengeti Balloon Safaris are available in four different locations throughout Tanzania at time of writing.
Coastal Aviation: www.coastal.co.tz
Coastal Aviation is a Safari flying company in east Africa, whose route schedule connects with all major international flights. Many scheduled flights into remote and secluded areas are available.
Safari Partners Travel Inc: www.safaripartners.com
Multiple itineraries to choose from, in several locations.
African Horizons: www.africanhorizons.com
African Horizons have many itineraries to choose from in different areas of the country. Expert guides can help you design a tour specifically for you as I did.
Serena Hotels: www.serenahotels.com
The many Serena Hotels and Lodges offer a blend of modern style with traditional African flavour. These lodges and hotels are designed to completely blend in with the surrounding landscape.
Maramboi Tented Camp: www.twctanzania.com
This is a permanent camp facility that focuses on safari walks as well as game drives. All 40 tents are built on wooden decks and include verandas and private bathrooms with 24 hr. 220V electricity. The camp sits in an ideal location to view the migration of animals.
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