This beguiling and intoxicating city creates an atmosphere of excitement combined with a little mystery, due to its multiple layers of history. Buenos Aires, Argentina stands waiting to be explored and explore I did! I couldn’t wait to start peeling back the layers to see what could be found beneath it all.
The city’s remarkable architecture abounds with a fusion of Colonial, Baroque, Neo-Gothic, Art Deco, Art-Nouveau and a sprinkling of French and Italian thrown into the mix. The structural designs here are definitely eye-catching. Historic sites and monuments are spread across this sprawling and colourful city that never sleeps. You can experience everything from gourmet meals in 5-star restaurants, to simple yet tasty food in coffee shops and sidewalk cafés that buzz with excitement.
Shopping comes in all styles of chic and elegance to sporty and casual. There’s no shortage of museums, live theatres and clubs. Of course, the unmistakable sound of the rhythmic Latin beat can be heard and felt almost everywhere. This city appears to have it all. However, there’s still one area that remains cloaked in mystery. Subterranean tunnels.
Hidden below the bustling streets and boulevards of Buenos Aires, you can find an underground labyrinth of tunnels where history and myth co-exist. Sections of this network of tunnels were once meant to be used as an escape route by some but were also utilized as a secret hide-away for undisclosed establishments.
Today, small segments of these mysterious and mythical passageways have been opened to the public for viewing. Nevertheless, there are still some clandestine businesses that continue to carry on trade deep within these tunnels, yet remain veiled even today.
I had heard whisperings of a “Blind Pig” being located somewhere beneath these streets, and a Blind Pig is what I set out in search of in this subterranean labyrinth. Recognizing it might be a difficult undertaking and accepting the possibility it would not be easily found, if at all, I was determined to give it my best effort. Knowing in advance that this covert operation wasn’t listed on any day-tripper’s itinerary, made it all the more enthralling.
Most of the underground tunnels are concentrated in San Telmo, founded in 1536 and recognized as the oldest part of the original settlement of Buenos Aires. For this reason, San Telmo is considered to be the portal to an intricate underground labyrinth. It was here that a sizable mansion was built in 1830 and lived in by a wealthy family along with their six slaves, until a wave of yellow fever swept through the area in the late 1800s.
The mansion then sat abandoned for about 30 years until it was eventually used as a tenement building. Ultimately however, it was once again deserted and sat in a neglected state until it was purchased in 1985 by a man who had dreams of opening a 5-star restaurant. When one of the patios began to sink in this 20-room mansion, now more than 150 years old, one of the most significant and unexpected archeological sites in Buenos Aires was discovered.
An entryway that led directly into the past revealed that this particular two km stretch of tunnel was built around 1780. With a vaulted ceiling and broad passageway, many questions arose as to what purpose it may have been used for.
Archeologists eventually determined it was constructed as an intricate drainage system through a deep ravine. Its original design was intended to divert a small stream that continuously overflowed and ran directly through the city streets during heavy rains. This tunnel rerouted the polluted runoff, which included farm animal waste, to the outskirts of the city. Not nearly as romantic a story as I had envisioned.
After 20 years of renovations, this magnificent and beautifully restored mansion that sits above the tunnels, now exhibits numerous objects found during excavations that took place in the tunnels below. The love and care that went into the restoration is evident as you walk through the wide passageways with soft lighting that beautifully illuminates the 200-year-old exposed brick and clay walls.
However, very little documented evidence has been found to authenticate or refute the purpose of these undisclosed tunnels. It’s not surprising. After all, they were meant to be kept a secret for the safety of their priests and followers.
Many of the older generation of San Telmo residents have memories of this underground world with its secret tunnels and passageways and were, therefore, not surprised by the discovery. This mansion now named the El Zanjón de Granados Museum, was the first stop in my search for the Blind Pig I had heard rumours of.
Another section of tunnels uncovered is believed to have been built by Jesuit priests from Spain who arrived in the late 16th century. A mission was soon established (Manzana de las Luces) in this area, with the intent of converting the populace to Catholicism. However, the priests were not warmly welcomed, and their teachings were resisted.
With brewing conflict, it is believed the Jesuit priests contributed greatly to what was originally meant as an escape route to safety, in case of an attack on their churches, priests or parishioners. Allegedly, the Jesuit tunnels were intended to link all the city’s churches to this escape route.
Many parts of the intricate passageway and tunnel system below the streets are assumed to have been lost. It is said the expansion of the subway system contributed greatly to this loss, as did bulldozing construction crews working on other projects. Much of it is believed to have simply been lost to the hands of time and deterioration. These inexplicable tunnels with all their folklore and mystery continue to fascinate people from all four points of the compass.
Not finding the “Blind Pig” in these sections of tunnels, my search continued. With a fresh start, my quest began with what turned out to be some vague and rather insufficient directions. However, after a couple of U-turns and ultimately asking for directions more than once from some of the locals on the street, I was eventually able to find what I was looking for.
Much to my delight it was everything I had hoped for, intriguing, atmospheric and mysterious. Finally, I had found the establishment I had been combing the streets for, or at least I hoped I had.
Stepping through the doorway of the small shop, the tinkling of the bell above the door alerted an employee that someone had entered the premises. My confidence began to sag slightly as I pondered whether or not I had indeed found the correct storefront.
Timidly, I told the young lady I wished to purchase a beverage. She smiled and said, “Follow me” as she opened the large door to the walk-in cooler containing flowers. I followed closely behind. At the far end, the floor opened to some L-shaped stairs that descended to a hidden underground room, and there standing before me in all its former glory, was the Blind Pig I had been earnestly searching for.
Dimly lit, this long, slightly curved, and cavernous brick-walled tunnel, was lined along the outer wall with tables filled with patrons while on the left side was an equally long bar where the clientele sat shoulder to shoulder. Bartenders behind the bar were feverishly making cocktails for the packed house.
Blind Pig, Gin Joint or Speakeasy, as some would call them, was once a secret meeting place for many important and high-ranking officials, and sometimes used as a rendezvous by secret lovers. These restricted environments were accessible to only a select few. Entrance to these establishments required either a password, special handshake or business card which was passed from person to person.
These clandestine meeting places were most often hidden behind a secret or false door. I learned from Fernando (a young waiter here) that there are still a few of these hidden bars around the city that were once illicit establishments. These Retro-style bars replicate historical aspects of the speakeasies of yesteryear and are disguised in several unique and creative ways. Indeed, I was thrilled to have found this elusive little piggy!
Mystery and myth continue to swirl about these underground tunnels even today, and stories about sections of undiscovered passageways pop up in the news periodically as new discoveries are unearthed. So, if you ever find yourself walking the streets and avenues of Buenos Aires, take a moment to consider what might be concealed beneath your feet; it may surprise you.
Linda Blair is a Freelance Travel Writer & Photographer.
IF YOU GO:
Many international airline carriers fly into Buenos Aires, Argentina. Transfers to your hotel can be arranged directly with your hotel of choice.
Hotel: There are several hotels to choose from as well as many Airbnbs.
Ramada by Wyndham Buenos Aires Centro
Centrally located hotel includes breakfast with price of room, tour desk, roof-top swimming pool and free wi-fi. Located very close to several attractions. Airport shuttle and laundry service available.
El Zanjón de Granados Museum: 755 Defense, in San Telmo, offers tours daily in both English and Spanish.
Floreria Atlantico: 872 Arroyo, Buenos Aires (Blind Pig/Speakeasy).
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