To find the real treasures of Vietnam, you have to stray a little from the main path. Big cities like Hanoi, Da Nang, or Ho Chi Minh City, all have hundreds of intriguing historical sites, unforgettable museums, vibrant night life, and exotic foods. The real treasure, however, lies a little deeper.
A treasure trove of magnificence and rich culture can be found in the 15th century city of Hoi An. Sometimes overlooked, this up-and-coming city of 150,000 people has been busy reinventing itself over the last two decades. This exciting new tourist destination became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. For a full measure of culture, history, cuisine, and hospitality, a visit to this perfectly preserved destination should be included in your itinerary.
Roots of Hoi An are traced back to the Kingdom of Champa during the 2nd to 10th century A.D. Hoi An became the biggest and most important seaport city for trade during the 16th century. Ships arrived from Europe, Japan, and Asia in search of silk, porcelain, lacquer, and medicinal herbs.
Colonies soon developed along the waterfront when many seafaring merchants set up shop during the off season. By the beginning of the 19th century the Thu Bon River began to fill with silt and ships were no longer able to enter the port. As a result, merchant ships diverted to Da Nang, which then took over as the major port city.
Ghosts of ancient times can be recognized while meandering through the streets. Influences of Chinese and Japanese that once settled here are most notably found in the big timbered assembly halls and merchant shops that lend a hand in providing the city some of its ambience. A great number of descendants of early Chinese settlers make up a significant portion of today’s population. Some houses have 7th generation families living within them. Approximately 800 heritage buildings in pristine condition, including Japanese merchant houses, Chinese Temples, and Shrines are located primarily in “Old Town.”
You can stroll through the 15th-16th centuries when you cross the wooden Japanese Covered Bridge, built here in 1593 to connect the Chinese and Japanese neighbourhoods. This bridge has become the symbol of Hoi An, and even though it has been rebuilt over the years, it still retains the original arched frame and ornate roofing.
Shuffling along the streets and pathways of Hoi An are persuasive street vendors (mostly women) wearing the iconic conical hat. Shouldering the weight of their yokes with dangling baskets laden with fresh fruit, produce, and fish; a scene one might have expected to see a century ago. It appears that not much has changed. Even as they carry their heavy loads for 14-15 hours every day, they are quick to smile and aim to please. With English widely spoken, communicating does not usually present a problem.
Today, strolling down tree-lined streets with a bohemian vibe in Old Town, you’ll pass numerous art galleries showcasing local works of art, quirky boutiques, and funky little coffee houses with notes of jazz floating through their open windows. Take a detour into some of the many alleyways to poke around in the little nooks and crannies as that’s where you’re most likely to find something out of the ordinary. Expert tailor shops abound in this city. During my visit, there were more than 700 listed tailor shops all eager to fit you with custom-made clothing in a remarkably short time.
A unique way to view Old Town with its vibrantly coloured French colonial-style buildings stained with age, can be done from the comfort of a bicycle rickshaw. At every turn something unique and unexpected appears along these pedestrian-friendly streets. Whichever way you decide to explore the streets, you will be sure to find some measure of delight in your discoveries.
Visiting the Central Market in Old Town, you will enjoy a visual adventure and uncover everything from soup to fresh fruits and veggies and every notion in between, including roofing tiles. It’s best to arrive early in the morning to catch the beehive of activity as locals gather to barter for seafood arriving on fishing boats, hear farmers haggling over freshly picked produce alongside butchers, and noodle makers. With the aroma of freshly baked baguettes wafting through the air, you will definitely be searching for breakfast by the time you finish here. Housewares, fresh flowers, handmade items such as leather goods, silk lanterns, bamboo baskets and, of course, souvenirs, can be found in the stalls surrounding the market.
If coffee or a perfectly blended cappuccino is what you seek, a stop at Hoi An Roastery in the heart of Old Town would be an excellent place for a coffee break, or light meal. With the ground floor often filled to capacity, the upstairs level usually has available seating, often next to an open shuttered window. Here you will have a vantage point with a different perspective of the street scene below, especially at night.
The real magic of Hoi An begins to materialize as the sun starts to slip below the Thu Bon River. Hundreds, if not thousands, of lanterns begin to illuminate the streets and pathways. People surrender to the pull of the waterways in Old Town, where they set a burning candle afloat on the river, and watch it sedately drift away carrying their wishes. Glowing silk lanterns are strung through the trees and crisscross the streets, magically lighting the way as you saunter along these historical avenues. Dinner in a restaurant with a rooftop view would be a romantic way to watch the sunset, but to really feel the vibe and excitement, you need to be in the streets with the people.
A modern, cutting-edge cooking school introduced by a local celebrity chef, has been cooking up specialties for over a decade. At Ms. Lys’ Cooking School located in Old Town, you can take a class to learn how to make everything from weird and wonderful, to famous classic dishes. This establishment will not disappoint.
All manner of sweet, sour, and savory can be found here. More than just a school, the cafeteria-style restaurant on the ground floor serves up some fantastic gastronomic delights. Here, you simply rove among the different food stations, make your selections then take a seat and enjoy your meal. Cooking classes are held on the second floor with a formal dining room called Morning Glory on the third. A good selection of wine, excellent food, decadent desserts, ambient lighting, and impeccable service, all contribute to a memorable evening in this restaurant. Window-seats available under a star-studded sky with the soft glow of lanterns spilling over the streets below further contribute to the experience of fine dining at this establishment.
Vietnam has much to offer with its colourful history, vibrant cities, breathtaking landscapes, spectacular beaches, tantalizing cuisine and expert tailoring. Hoi An appears to have it all from high-end resorts situated on white sand beaches to family operated homestays. Any number of adventurous day trips can be arranged for diving, snorkelling, or kayaking around the unspoiled and undeveloped Cham Islands just 25 nautical miles off the coast of Hoi An. Cycle through the countryside to see water buffalo and farmers work the rice fields just as they have for the last 200 years or take a yoga class. The possibilities are endless, and I believe Vietnam is a place that has something for everyone. The warmth, charm, and hospitality of the local people will make your trip most memorable, and leave you wanting more – as it did for me.
Linda A. Blair is a travel writer and photographer.
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