Heading out on a road trip in early autumn certainly has its merits. The brilliant fall colors, the fresh scent of the forest, and the light touch of an autumn breeze combined with the warm caress of the sun tell me this will be a road trip to remember.
Linda Blair
Highway 20 into the Bella Coola Valley is definitely a road less travelled, however, the stunning views are extraordinarily spectacular and certainly worth the drive. Alpine lakes, dramatic mountain peaks and fascinating natural wonders are unforgettable.
Driving to Bella Coola quickly became one of my most notable road trips. What began as a trip to see grizzly bears in the wild, soon became a journey of discovery.
Upon arrival, I already felt something was different. Little did I know how much of an impact this experience would have on me.
Considered to be one of the oldest human settlements ever found in North America, Bella Coola dates to the last ice age. A rich cultural history, totem poles, and centuries old petroglyphs, all tell ageless stories of struggles and survival. With such deep layers of history, the Bella Coola Valley is definitely a place where the past whispers to you.
Within this valley, lies a pristine Pacific coastal rainforest, known as the “Great Bear Rainforest,” considered to be one of the world’s largest temperate rainforests. Measuring 6.4 million hectares, this incredibly varied and rugged terrain is home to deer, wolves, cougars, mountain goats, black bears and grizzlies.
Inside this mystical forested area, you’ll find towering thousand-year-old red cedar, Douglas fir, Sitka spruce, and carpet-thick moss-covered ground. Combined with salmon-rich rivers and meadowed lowlands, this creates the ideal environment for grizzly bears.
Home to some of the world’s largest grizzlies, this remote and unspoiled wilderness allows them to roam, feed, and live undisturbed. People around the world trek here just to catch a glimpse of this scenic area with its abundant wildlife.
The Nuxalk First Nations people of Bella Coola, date back some 10,000 years, so who better to lead me into a sacred and spiritual area hidden in the Great Bear Rainforest, than Lance Nelson, a Nuxalk guide and teacher. I was led to a collection of rock carvings created by Indigenous people in the area, thousands of years ago.
Lance revealed stories behind the figures, depicting legends surrounding the carvings. He labeled the area as “sacred and spiritual” for all. It’s a place where people come during all seasons, including the dead of winter with only the light of the moon to illuminate the trail. A shroud of mystique and spiritual power enveloped us as he sang a traditional Nuxalk song of welcome.
The whole Bella Coola Valley is drenched in history, and a short ten-minute boat ride from the wharf in Bella Coola, took me across the inlet to Tallheo Cannery, built in 1916.
Disembarking at the Tallheo dock, felt like stepping through a time warp. Bursting with nostalgia, the guest house, general store and surrounding structures, including the cannery, complete with a decaying boat tilted on its side at the shoreline, had me spellbound.
In its heyday, Tallheo Cannery rocketed to nearly 300 people including the workers’ families. Most lived on the property in bunkhouses or cabins. Typically, the men fished, and women worked in the canning division or mended fish nets.
1948 saw a decline in the canning industry when improved refrigeration and transportation became more readily available. Tallheo survived by operating as a net loft, machine repair station, fuel dock — and kept the general store open. More than a century later, the guest house continues to operate during the summer months.
Another ten-minute boat ride across calm waters brought me back to Bella Coola and reality.
My excitement and anticipation for a morning on the Atnarko River in search of grizzly bears was about a level 10 when I arrived at the launching area. After a ten-minute safety talk with the river guide, we climbed aboard the inflatable raft and began our slow drift downriver. Immediately, I was awestruck as my eyes swept across the rugged beauty of the surrounding mountains. This meandrous 100-km long river is definitely one that weaves people and nature together.
Occasionally, an assault on the nostrils by the heavy, rancid, tang of rotting fish in the air causes one to wince. However, my excitement rises and I completely forget about the odor when the first grizzly comes into view, casually noshing on the fatty flesh of a salmon.
This viewing corridor is a favored location for grizzlies to gorge themselves on five varieties of salmon. The guide outlines the various species, identifying the prized chinook as having the highest fat content. Often the bears will only eat the center of the fish for the eggs (highest content of nutrients). However, as the fish dwindle in numbers the bears become less picky and will even eat the dead ones.
Curious about the impact of tourism on the bear population in this area, the guide reasoned the overall effect was positive because larger dominant male grizzlies tend to shy away from humans. They find other avenues to feed on spawning salmon. As a result, sub-adults and especially females with cubs, have easier access to prime feeding spots in this busy corridor. Males are known to kill infant cubs, so females with cubs would have a more difficult time to feed without human presence.
Strict rules are enforced in order not to disturb the bears while they are fishing. Vessels are required to stay at a minimum distance at all times; absolutely no aggressive behavior toward the bears is tolerated. Silence is a must, and certainly no food or drinks are permitted. As a result, these grizzlies appear to be unfazed by human presence and simply concentrate on feeding.
A walkabout in the village of Bella Coola is a must to soak in the culture. Publicly displayed are beautifully carved benches, vibrantly painted shelters, and thought-provoking totem poles that tell very compelling sagas. While learning the significance of these poles, it was difficult not to have feelings of sadness swell up, and at times become overwhelmed with emotion.
One totem pole removed from here more than a century ago, was recently (2023) repatriated from The Royal Museum in Victoria, BC. It now sits proudly on display in the foyer of the Acwsalcta School in Bella Coola. Descendants of the original carver still reside in Bella Coola, and have stated “it was like a family member had returned home after a long journey.”
Continuing on my walkabout, it was an honor to be invited into the workshop of Alvin Mack, an accomplished, well respected and talented artist who has won many awards for his Nuxalk artwork. His works are on display around the world and in local galleries in Bella Coola and Vancouver BC.
Alvin describes himself as a “vessel” to teach and bring back the culture of his Nuxalk ancestry by way of translating mythology into his carvings. He explains it is a way to keep the Nuxalk heritage and traditions alive after nearly being extinguished from many decades of suppression.
Greatly inspired by his father, himself a master carver, Alvin began carving at a young age when his father gave him a bar of soap and a knife. That was the beginning.
However, as a young boy, Alvin’s path was long and hard, filled with many ups and downs, sorrow and tragedy. His father was a residential school survivor.
Alvin persevered against great odds to become the man he grew into. Listening to him speak of his life story and all the struggles he endured was very moving. I found Alvin to be a most giving and humble man as he spoke of healing and forgiveness.
Today, life in Bella Coola appears to be focused on reviving the Nuxalk culture, language, customs, and healing.
Many things I discovered on this trip caused me to look inward and reflect upon my own beliefs.
Never would I describe myself as “privileged” because my life has always been a modest one. Simply put, I learned that “privileged” is not just wealth, designer clothes, big houses, and expensive cars. Freedom is one thing I’ve always enjoyed yet took for granted. I now have a broader understanding of “privileged”.
I traveled to this remote area for the amazing scenery and grizzlies. Unexpectedly, I also discovered the Spirit of Bella Coola.
Whether you travel there for nature, tranquility or wildlife, embrace the culture and warmth of the residents.
Listen, learn, and keep your mind open. If you do so, you will understand far more, and perhaps you too will feel the Spirit. A parting gaze over my shoulder, gave me a final dose of awe I wouldn’t soon forget.
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