One would think that numerous military sieges on a city would, at least, be detrimental to the disposition of its inhabitants. However, in its more than 2,000-year history, Maastricht, Netherlands has not only endured, but its indelible spirit has been assimilated into every aspect of society.
The spirit lives throughout the city and stands in the Stokstraat Quarter, the city centre of Roman Maastricht. A bronze statue of the “Mestreechter Geis,” the tangible Spirit of Maastricht, is a jester with an impish grin. He is the symbol of Carnival and his essence is perpetuated year-round. The fundamental foundation of the spirit within Maastricht lies embedded in the centuries of influence. In this land essentially without borders, cultural and traditional exchange from the south solidified a concrete international imprint.
In medieval times borders, and especially bastions, were paramount. For six centuries the city was totally enclosed by a system of fortifications. Several sieges, including that of the Sun King Louis XIV, are a part of the city’s turbulent history.
The French Duke D’Artagnan (1611-1673) was Lieutenant-Captain of the legendary White Musketeers. A statue and plaque are located where he was mortally wounded, just outside the city walls in Waldeck Park. Three decades later, Napoleon preferred to inspect the fortifications rather than attend a celebration given in his honour.
A more commanding statue of a Maastrichtenaar physicist stands at the Boschstraat entrance to Market Square. In 1784, Jan Pieter Minckelers (1748-1824) discovered that the gas produced from coal could be used to make gas lamps. This is the reason for the eternal flame he holds in his left hand.
Helpoort (hell gate), the oldest of its kind in the Netherlands, was formed in 1229 as a part of the first medieval city wall. Walking through the stoned gateway, one can almost hear the soldiers’ footsteps on the cobblestones as they marched under the ancient archway. Directly across the street is the “Plague House” (1775), a former paper mill. Its undeserved name was due to the proximity of the barracks to the plague sufferers in town.
Another prominent 13th century structure straddles the Maas River to the city quarter of Wyck. The St. Servatius Bridge (1289) is named after the first bishop of the Netherlands. One can find his namesake church in the heart of the city. The medieval Basilica of St. Servatius has an ornate, awe-inspiring archway entrance from the north courtyard.
Adjacent to the church is the 14th century Gothic St. Janskerk (St. John the Baptist’s church) in Henric van Valdeke Square. At 70-metres high, the red tower punctuates the cityscape. I decided to ascend the head-spinning 218 spiral stairs to the 43-metre level for a magnificent view. This stairway is narrow, and you get to become familiar with fellow tourists, whether you care to or not.
The tower was constructed from relatively porous marlstone, which was painted red to signify ownership by the builders and for preservation from the elements. The church itself possesses 115 liturgical artefacts, murals, and myriad grave monuments from the early 15th century to the late 18th century. For those so inclined or blessed, the number of churches in the city enables one to visit a different church each week of the year.
At the other end of the spectrum, there are more than enough pubs and cafés in Maastricht that you could visit every day of the year in this city of 120,000 residents. Food and drink are an integral part of the joie de vivre of the city, reflecting the inherent spirit and lifestyle of the people.
In this province of Limburg, the cheese is not the only prominent product. Amber brew like Brand, Gulpener and the local Ridder beer are among the sudsy selections of residents and tourists alike. Beer remained the most important table drink until the last century.
We ambled over to the provincial capital’s oldest pub, Den Ouden Vogelstruys (The Old Ostrich), for some sustenance of local suds. This quaint establishment opened its doors in 1730 and sits beside a row of cafés across from Vrijthof Square.
Wine is popular as is the traditional, juniper-flavoured Dutch liquor, Jenever. This potent potable is invariably served in a small liqueur glass. Not being used to consuming raw herring, a notorious Dutch specialty, Jenever made my fish dish somewhat more palatable. Evidently, another acquired taste is the smoked eel, considered a delicacy. I recalled that during a countryside bicycle ride, the guide informed me that besides other fish, eels frequented the canals. My feelings abated on deciding whether my feet should become bait while I cooled them in the nearby canal.
For a tasty quasi-continental breakfast, we enjoyed some wafer-thin slices of cooked ham and gouda cheese. Then subsequently we tried a popular lunchtime treat, pannekoek (pancakes). There were various ingredients and toppings in which to indulge oneself; including bacon, apple slices and naturally, cheese. Residents of Holland are fondly regarded as kaaskoppen (cheese heads) by the rest of Europe. Their version of maple syrup is a kind of viscous sugar beet syrup (stroop).
One may be satiated by a simple local lunch consisting of a broodje (sandwich) and some frites (french fries). The latter is to be embellished – not with ketchup – but with the popular European condiment, mayonnaise.
If you overindulge in one way or another, then a 10 km drive east of Maastricht may rectify that. At Thermae 2000, the beneficial minerals in the thermal waters soothe both body and mind. The spa in the town of Valkenburg was established by a pair of physiotherapists in 1989. This water was discovered 381 metres below the surface where the dormant springs had been lying for centuries. Today, a spacious pyramidal structure overlooks the Geul Valley in Limburg’s Highland. The impressive view is just a bonus to what the attractive facility has to offer.
Medieval Maastricht exudes an allure all itself. Personal sensibilities derived from experiencing cultural tastes and historic sites only enhance the ever-present endemic spirit existing here in the Netherlands’ southernmost and sunniest city.
IF YOU GO:
www.netherlands-tourism.com
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