The Lure of Italian Liquer

Strolling shops on the Amalfi Coast, the omnipresent bottles of limoncello grab your attention. Neon yellow, tart but sweet, the zingy liqueur calls to you. It’s the Amalfi Coast’s signature flavour that every tourist brings home. Although served as chilled and frosty as possible, you’ll remember it warmly, as bright, bracing, pure bottled sunshine.

The sfusato lemon, the super-sweet, gigantic citrus of the Amalfi Coast provides the base for limoncello. The coast’s perfect terrain with layers of volcanic rock and limestone combine with the dominant sunshine to create the perfect climate for this “Sorrento lemon.”

Though not all of them are huge, it’s not unusual to see them the size of softballs or footballs. Gently sour, locals eat them straight, peel and all, in slices, often with a sprinkle of sugar.

The piquant tartness of the lemons adds a kiss of brightness to local beverages, pastries, candies, and entrees. But they shine brightest in limoncello. Tiny, gigantic, whimsical, and elegant bottles of the popular digestivo are bursting out of every shop.

I want that extra special limoncello, however, the one that stands out. Pursuing a highly lauded maker of limoncello, I wind my way to the little village of Minori and the artisanal Liquorficio of Carlo Mansi.

“We make liqueurs from many things, but primarily sfusato lemons,” says founder and owner, Mansi. Most limoncellos look and taste pretty much the same. But Mansi’s techniques make his limoncello taste brighter and look somewhat less yellow.

By using lemons that are slightly less ripe, his brews can appear pale green. Mansi’s workers painstakingly peel them by hand.

“Most limoncello factories use machines for peeling the sfusato because it’s faster and cheaper,” he says. “We do it by hand. This takes much more time but makes all the difference.”

Mansi uses only razor thin peels from the very outermost layer, making his liqueur distinct.

As I meander further into his shop, my eye follows the playful parade of exotic, colourful elixirs. Yellow, pink, orange and green pastels contrast with deep, dark, mysterious syrups. Like other factories, Mansi produces numerous liqueurs. This region’s enormous variety of aromatic herbs, fruits, vegetables, flowers, roots, barks and citrus peels inspire unlikely combinations. Some sound medicinal – until you taste them!

During my first trip to Amalfi, I wandered into a shop that offered Rucolino. Intrigued, I asked, “What is this made from?” The answer was arugula, the peppery salad green. A liqueur made from pungent and bitter arugula? My fist reaction was “Yuck!” Then came the sample. The hypnotic, complex taste hooked me immediately.

Many such liqueurs come from single-flavour bases. Fruits create the foundation for Meloncello (cantaloupe), Fragoncello (strawberry) and Mandarino (orange). Nuts shine in Nocilino (hazelnuts) and Pistacchio Cream. Vegetables show up in Finocchietto (wild fennel) and Ruccolino (arugula). Their straightforward simplicity has the immediate appeal of distinct, singular essences.

I find a whole other world of curious concoctions here. Popular alcoholic syrups can be both old, such as traditional favourites “Concerto d’Erbe” and Mansi’s “Cicerenella” or new, like his latest creation, “Amaro del Monaco Amalfitano.”

As I’m looking about, I’m confused by several different labels – apertivo, digestivo, amaro. What are the differences between them? Clear definitions don’t exist, but the liqueurs are broadly divided into two categories.

An apertivo is sipped before dinner to stimulate appetite and digestion. Commonly more dry than sweet, they are often bright red or orange. Apertivos are typically blended with sodas, wine or champagne. Well-known examples are Campari, Aperol Spritz and Martini.

Legends and mysteries surround the other category: the digestivo. Much thicker, darker and complex, their recipes are frequently guarded secrets. Locals still sip creations developed in abbeys and convents centuries ago. Many regions of Italy have their own treasured favourites, like “Averna” from Sicily, “Vecchio Amaro del Capo” from Calabria, “Amaro Lucano” from Basilicata and many more. If you’re looking for a bargain, buy them in supermarkets across Italy. Their common thread is the use of carminatives – essential oils or herbs intended to prevent or aid in the expulsion of gas.

Since digestivos often come from bitter sources, they are labelled “amaro,” the Italian word for bitter. Blending these ingredients with syrups makes them thick and sweet. Traditionally served straight, chilled, in very small ceramic cups, digestivos follow the coffee course. Capping a night of great eating, you may even be offered the house specialty gratis!

Looking to bring home a liqueur souvenir from this region but less known outside Italy? Stay in Campania but head a bit more inland. Between Naples and Rome, you find the source of “Liquore Strega” in the city of Benevento. With the train station directly opposite the factory, it is a great day trip adventure from the coast. Make a reservation for a free visit to this factory, which will open you to the captivating world of Strega.

After years of experimentation by Giuseppe Alberti, production of “Strega,” a rich golden liqueur, began in 1860. Tinkering with 70 local botanicals that included the strong, contrasting tastes of wild mint, juniper, cloves, star anise and Ceylon cinnamon, Alberti permanently put Benevento on the map as the home of one of Italy’s most beloved liqueurs.

As you enter the factory, decades of artwork commemorate its storied history and sets the stage for your tour. However, it’s when you go upstairs that you start to understand Strega’s allure.

Ascending into the factory, you become instantly overwhelmed. Not a drop of alcohol, but one whiff of the crushed ingredients intoxicates you. The magical fragrance of the potent aroma simply won’t let you go. The recipe remains a public mystery. Its secret is known to only two family members, at any time. Each employee knows only a few of the ingredients that they grind before putting them in grain alcohol to macerate.

Traditional swan-neck alembics preserve the essence of each ingredient as the mash slowly distills. After blending with simple syrup, the final addition of a tincture of saffron gives Strega its iridescent glow. Months later, the unique taste emerges, and the liqueur is sealed.

While over 400 verified knock-off attempts have tried to duplicate it, Strega remains distinct and unmistakable. Traditionally consumed straight, in recent years bartenders have begun mixing it into their newest cocktail creations. Exports now find their way into trendy bars worldwide.

Here in Strega’s factory gift shop, my souvenir shopping is complete. I filled my basket with gifts my family will never forget – bottles, chocolates and candies flavoured with sweet, beguiling Strega.

Saying goodbye to Campania and the Amalfi Coast, both my bags and my memories are filled. I take home the dreams of blue skies and captivating coasts, heart-stopping vistas, gentle breezes, the aroma of lemons, the warm sun on my face and the sweet flavours of the liqueurs of the Amalfi Coast. With my first sip of limoncello at home, I begin plans for my return.

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