Buses, boats and bikes. During our stay, we discover these are three of the best ways to check out Copenhagen’s vibrant offerings. “Watch out,” my husband, Brent, shouts, just before I step off the curb into oncoming traffic. “You always have to look both ways, shoulder check and yield.”
Anywhere in North America, you might think he was referring to motorists. But here, in Denmark’s capital, it’s all about the cyclists: they are everywhere, have the right of way and rule! In fact, the morning commute is more like a professional’s pedal parade. Women dressed in long skirts, men in ties and suits, kids tucked into attached carts, briefcases lashed to rat traps, blonde ponytails blowing in the breeze. And, collectively, while getting where they want to go, they exude that effortless chic, scandi-cool style.
Although we opt out of two-wheeling on this trip, the Hop On Hop Off boat and bus tours provide us with the perfect perspective to take in the attractions from both the land and water.
“You can get off at any marked stop on the map,” we’re told by the kiosk ticket seller, “then catch a later ride when you want to move on.” We know the drill. Pretty much every major epicentre on the global tourist trail hosts this sightseeing option, and we’ve always found it’s been a great way to get a quick overview. So, with map in hand and earbuds plugged in, we unite with other sun lovers on the top open floor of the double-decker.
The Mermaid Tour is the most popular of the three routes: stoic castles, grand monuments, tranquil canals, cobblestone streets. Our coach breezes by Tivoli Gardens, the second oldest operating amusement park in the world, which has been entertaining thrill seekers since 1843; motors past the National Museum, where exhibits explore the Stone, Viking, Middle Ages and Modern Danish History; and makes a stop at The Little Mermaid, a sculpture by Edvard Eriksen, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale about a mermaid who gives up everything for a handsome prince. Since August 1913, she has been sitting, immortalized in bronze, staring longingly towards the shore in hopes of seeing her man. And tourists, like us, come in droves every day to see her do just that!
We hop off at Christiansborg Palace, where the seat of Danish Parliament and Danish Prime Minister’s office reside today. “That’s quite the workspace,” Brent says, while we pose for a photo in front of this impressive landmark. “And quite the living quarters for our daughter-in-law.”
Although there are clearly lots of reasons to visit Copenhagen, the main purpose of this trip is to celebrate our son’s marriage. Two years ago, he wed his Danish sweetheart in LA, where they now live and, this week, they are returning to her roots and uniting her family with ours for a belated “Lovefest” bash. Her father was once an Ambassador to the Queen of Denmark and, during that time, her family had resided in one of the palace wings. Quite the digs, indeed!
We amble along the canal that neighbours this fortress and stop for lunch at Katz, a sidewalk café that dishes up humungous burgers and scrumptious salads. We’re not surprised. Pretty much every meal we’ve had during our visit has been stellar. Over the past couple of decades, this city has risen in the culinary ranks, has deservedly earned accolades and has become a favourite destination for serious foodies.
To burn off a few calories, we stroll the quaint nearby streets that wind their way throughout the city’s central hub. Many are linked to courtyards boasting statues, historical monuments and talented street performers.
Strøget, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian pathways, offers us a slew of shops – everything from budget-friendly to pricier name brands. Nearby is Studiestræde, once the city’s Old Latin Quarter, now home to a string of thrift stores and cool coffee hangouts. And Strædet tempts us with its many eateries, gift shops and retail outlets. Although I can’t pronounce a single street name correctly, each block is unique with their varying painted façades that create rainbows of colour.
But Nyhavn takes the prize for its pretty pallet: once a hangout for sailors; now one of the trendiest areas of the city. Sidewalk cafés spill out from the crayon-coloured buildings that line up hip-to-hip along this bustling canal. Picture worthy? You bet! In fact, it’s one of the most popular postcard snaps of Denmark.
Two days later, we return to this area with our new extended family to check out the sites from the water’s perspective. “Okay, everyone, climb aboard,” our son and daughter-in-law command, as they greet everyone dockside.
Some guests claim seats that are under cover, others head to the back of the stream-lined longboat where roving views can be clearly photographed. And while we schmooze, we cruise.
“Amalienborg Palace is the winter home of the Danish Royal Family,” our commentator says. “You may see Danish princes and princesses driving in and out as we motor on by.” With eagle eyes, we pan the entrance gates of the palatial homestead. No such luck today. We also discover we can have our photo taken with the Guard here. These royal gents march from Rosenborg Castle to this posh spot where the Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place every day at noon.
While cruising through the historic canals of the old city, we get a glimpse of what it would be like to live on a houseboat. Historical buildings border our aquatic byway, many which were constructed by King Christian IV in the early 17th century, then meander our way along Christianshavns canal, where the controversial Christiania is home to a hippie community and free-spirited souls. Directly opposite, and in stark contrast, is a view of the ultra-modern Copenhagen Opera House, donated by one of Denmark’s most prominent businessmen, Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller. It’s a grand achievement and one that melds beautifully with this vibrant city.
“Skål,” our son and daughter-in-law say to everyone while raising their glasses of champagne. They then clarify, “It’s the Danish word for toasting or saying cheers.” Little do we know, it’s also a command that we are going to hear several times over the next few days during their Lovefest celebration. But this time, it’s not about the happy couple. “Skål,” we all respond, and lift our glasses in a toast to amazing Copenhagen.
If You Go:
https://www.visitcopenhagen.com/
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