Salt Spring Rambles

Learning of the numerous parks on BC’s largest Gulf Island inspires an April hiking holiday on Salt Spring.

Our walkabouts begin just north of Vesuvius Bay with a pastoral two-kilometre stroll around Duck Creek Park. Not one duck bobs along its meandering waterway. Instead, we see tail-wagging dogs tugging the leashes of smiling owners. Signage whimsically asks these doggie “companions” to be responsible, as the “Poop Fairy” has gone fishing!

Among benches bordering the path, one overlooks sparkling waterfalls and accommodates a restful picnic. Walking onward, a placard confirms our healthy goal: Being active outdoors is good for body, mind and soul. At the forest boundary, another path loops us back through sunlit meadows and over lush rolling hills.

Cusheon Lake Resort becomes a perfect base for ambling and rambling. Relaxing in our cozy log cabin, tree frogs serenade each evening, mallards quack us up every morning.

A “Guide of Adventure” map helps us easily locate trailheads, like the one at nearby Peter Arnell Park. Looking at the posted trail system, we plan a one-and-a-half-km route. Our path twists through dense sword ferns, vine maples and salmon berries, then ascends under a high leafy canopy. From ridges, we glimpse Captain Passage and two neighbouring islands. White fawn lilies, purple shooting stars and fairy orchids decorate small meadows. In one clearing, a pretty bouquet lies atop a heart formed with rocks.

Returning through gnarly, copper-trunked arbutus, creamy bracket fungi decorate lofty firs and fallen logs. Toxic red amanita muscaria dot the forest floor. Among other mushrooms, we spot the prized, brainy-looking morel.

The first of two steep four-km hikes starts at the Armand Heights trailhead. Ascending under alders and evergreens, our footpath zigzags into Mount Maxwell Provincial Park. A boundary signpost outlines several routes encircling the peak. We choose a southward trail winding beneath towering firs, hemlocks and cedars. Emerald mosses and budding trilliums carpet glens and granite outcrops. A magnificent vista of Burgoyne Bay rewards our efforts at a cliff-side clearing.

The second tackles Mount Erskine. Parking on Trustees Trail, this aerobic challenge heads into spindly aspens and grinds steadily upward into fragrant second growth forest. Persistence pays off! A panoramic viewpoint reveals Vesuvius and distant Crofton on Vancouver Island. Moreover, fairies dwell at the base of a gigantic boulder; their charming elfin home sports a tiny red door and round window.

Chris Hatfield Trail (named after its local donor) kicks off our first coastal ramble. Though Salt Spring’s trails are notably well maintained, its sign invites walkers to fill potholes. Using available shovels, buckets and sand, we enter the moss-clad forest, patch eroded spots… and replace the pails on our return. Linking onto a Ruckle Park trail, we proceed into dappled forest and ultimately downward to Yeo Point beach… a delightful four-km jaunt.

Driving later to historic Ruckle Farm Provincial Park, we consider repeating an eight-km hike featuring beautiful Grandma’s Beach. Rather than re-experience this coastline and forest loop, we tackle an interesting two-km segment of this hardy walk.

Leaving the picnic area, we set off for the site of Mr. Ruckle’s 1900s wharf. There, a storyboard displays his daughter’s paintings of a former general store, post office and cottage. Retracing our steps, we watch an otter family frolic in the bay and a pileated woodpecker chisel grubs out of an old snag.

North of Fulford Harbor, Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park offers two pleasant four-km walks. Here in 1999, Salt Springers demonstrated against clear-cut logging. Eventually co-funding its land purchase, they preserved the pristine bay.

On the south shore, new friendship totems welcome visitors. An ancient rock bowl lies below the totems recalling the first nations’ long occupation here. Another pathway parallels the beach northward, wandering between salal, arbutus and evergreens. Our walk ends at heritage farm buildings set amidst BC’s largest Garry Oak forest and meadows.

Purchasing heritage maps, some visitors explore Ganges, Salt Spring’s main village. Instead, we develop our own Art Walk. Explorations start around Grace Point Square with tasty lunches at Auntie Pesto Café. Tasteful watercolours adorn this waterside bistro, one of many village art venues.

Outside, bronze, wind-driven sculptures sprout from the square’s flower boxes. The sculptor’s kinetic work also appears at Steffich Fine Art, one of three adjacent galleries. Picasso’s words appear above the doorway: “Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.” Among seascapes and fascinating sculptures, two-metre stacks of ceramic prayer beads encourage thoughts of our own mental cleansing. Next door, Fault Line Projects features one artist’s painted renditions of classic movies. And Gallery 8 features vibrant native artworks amid two floors of other treasures.

Wondrous Pegasus Gallery of Canadian Art is tucked below Mouat’s Home Hardware in the historic heart of the village. Its marvelous, eclectic exhibits include native basketry, carved masks and bowls. Of the many landscapes, we admire early Group of Seven artist Frank Johnson’s painting of a snowy winter scene.

Outside, Ganges’ waterfront boardwalk boasts a golden mermaid perching on a pedestal. An inscription quotes the Rotary Club motto: “Service above Self.” Holding an astrolabe, she seems to be setting a course to help fellow islanders.

Two art-full co-ops stand nearby. On the way, a blossoming cherry tree shelters Elf Erskine’s home. A sign explains how local Roger Blunt writes about this elf’s island adventures and crafts their endearing houses.

Waterfront Gallery markets juried works of over 100 islanders. Kama soap and beeswax candles perfume the interior. Silk, batik and woven garments hang beside shelves of silver bracelets, fired glass earrings and pendants. Other shelves display artisans’ basketry, ceramics, plaques with funny sayings, hand-stamps and sculptures of fanciful children and dragons. There are even jars of jam, honey and packets of sea salt. Beyond, Salt Spring Gallery specializes in lovely textiles and paintings.

The library is Ganges’ largest art venue. Our favourites decorate the children’s section: a long-eared black rabbit popping out of a red R, a mosaic dragon perusing a book and little sculptured mice and birdies scampering atop bookshelves. Our walk ends at Café Talia, noted for extraordinary Italian coffees, scrumptious date squares and yes, arrays of art.

Art investigations resume that evening at Duthie Gallery. Two rooms display island landscapes and portraits of smiling islanders, all expressing determination, creativity and humour. A path winds outside betwixt tall evergreens past monumental wood and stone figures. In a small clearing stands a battleship made of car parts and plumbing fixtures.

The next morning, Ganges’ Mouat Park provides one last memorable walk. The pathway initially skirts a restored earthen kiln. Signboards explain how this large, century-old Japanese oven prepared charcoal for early salmon canneries. Continuing through Hart Memorial Disc Golf Course, we snack at a shady picnic table and watch a fellow spin discs through dense evergreens toward a dangling silver cylinder. The third toss rings with success! The pathway loops us back along a park-side creek, over a bridge and into a grove of red cedars. Instead of finding reputed fairy-doors, we spot a fearsome spirit carved on a tree trunk.

Exhilarating exercise, magical meanders and artful ponders fill four days of island adventure. Aboard the homeward ferry, we plan our return to try further trails… and tackle northern Salt Spring’s 15-km Ridge Trail Network.

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