Horse Assisted Hiking in the Rainbow Range

Some adventures call out to the heart and feed the soul and this was one of them. I had glimpsed the magical landscape of the Rainbow Range, about 400km west of Williams Lake, during a short hike in 1996 and yearned for over 20 years to return and explore further into the heart of these painted mountains, preferably by horseback. Last year, my husband, Alois Schonenberger and I made our plans to do just that.

Our plans needed a slight shift. Rainbow Mountain Outfitters, the sole company with tenure to take horse tours into Tweedsmuir Park, now offers only horse-assisted hiking. But from the first day, there was not a sorry moment. The trip turned out to be one of the most spectacular adventures we have ever taken. And to think this opportunity exists, not in some distant land, but in our own beautiful province of BC.

South Tweedsmuir Park, where the Rainbow Mountains are located, is on the western limits of the immense Chilcotin Plateau. Called Tsitsutl in local dialect, the painted mountains of the Rainbow Range are made up of enormous domes and peaks of eroded lava and fragmented rock presenting an astounding spectrum of yellow, orange, red and lavender in varying hues. Formed six to nine million years ago, their present undulating forms have been sculpted by several ice ages. The rugged snow covered Coast Mountains offer an incredible backdrop behind the dark granite shapes of the Capoose Mountains. Nestled between are wide valleys with flower-strewn bogs and meandering creeks, interspersed with shimmering blue and green lakes. This is a photographer’s dream!

Our hosts were the Dorseys, who have been escorting guests into the Rainbow Range for over 60 years. Leslie (Dorsey) Witt is the fourth generation, accompanying her parents, Joyce and David, since she was able to sit on a horse. She took over the Rainbow Range tours two years ago and it was her innovative idea that inspired the change to horse-assisted hiking rather than riding. I have always loved multi-day hiking trips, but carrying that huge pack makes me feel like a beast of burden. What a delight to just carry a day pack and have the horses haul the rest.

We began our journey on August 17, a bit late for the wild flowers that grow in such profusion, but happily too late for the mosquitoes and horse flies, as well. Our journey began on a sunny day at the Rainbow Range trail head. Alois and I had speculated about the other 10 guests, wondering if they were all young, and would we, as seniors, be able to keep up? What a happy moment when we met them and found their ages ranged from 59 to well over 70. All the guests hailed from BC.

Packing up was fascinating to watch with piles of gear bags, saddles and food boxes everywhere. The 18 horses waited patiently and four dogs milled about excitedly. The tour was organized into four hiking days from site to site, and the three remaining guided day-hike days. Camp sites were well chosen for proximity to water, wood, tenting areas and meadows for the horses. As well as Leslie and Joyce, the other crew members were all hardy Chilcotin people.

Our hiking guide, Charlie, carried a rifle, a satellite indicator and a satellite GPS messenger. In the rear, rode Joyce, leading a saddled horse, which we gathered was our horse ambulance. Our way began on the established park trails through an old forest burn, with a profusion of wild flowers. Soon we were on top looking over vast alpine valleys, dotted with ponds and lakes. In the background, the snowy Coastal Mountains shone in the sun behind the brown shapes of the Capoose Range. In the far distance, offering mesmerizing glimpses of mountains brushed with a palette of colours, was the Rainbows Range.

Leaving the well-travelled park trails, we headed out onto remote routes, where we happily spent the next week. After crossing a large meadow valley, we arrived at Black Mountain, our first camp site. Joyce led us around to find our suites, a piece of the uneven ground to put our tents on, and she showed us the very rustic toilet, simply made in the open with a few logs spanning a hole. A rope across the trail was raised when in use. That was the usual for all our sites and the only stress of the whole trip was when people forgot to take the rope down.

The horse train’s arrival in camp was exciting, and much work followed for the crew with unpacking, setting up camp and preparing dinner. As guests, our job was to put up our own tents after which we headed to the creek for a little clean up and then circled the fire where tea and coffee were already brewing. The expertise of Leslie and Joyce as they set up the grill and cooked dinner for 18 people was fascinating! The meal was gourmet and extravagant by our camping standards, far removed from the bag dinners my husband and I are accustomed to. Getting to know the other guests was a pleasure; they are all active people. Most ski, hike, bike, snowshoe, canoe, kayak and travel widely. They had booked this tour as a group to celebrate the 65th birthday of Laura Tait, one of the three sisters along on this journey.

Frost on the ground in the morning soon gave way to sunshine. After a scrumptious grilled breakfast, the group, all four eager dogs and the crew, except for Joyce, headed out on a day hike to Goat Mountain. Our leader, Ida, has been with the Dorseys for 10 years, beginning at the age of 12 and is very knowledgeable about the geology, geography and the flowers and fauna. Our way was by clear blue alpine lakes, bogs and creek crossings strewn with wild flowers, and over progressively steep hillsides with scenic panoramas. The final views looking into the vivid colours of the heart of the Rainbow Range were spectacular.

Back at camp, everyone gathered around the fire speculating as to what would go on the grill and in the pots, and to share stories. After an excellent dinner one of the guests played his guitar and sang. The rest of us chimed in, mostly on the first few lines.

The next five days were just as spectacular. We were lucky with nice sunny days and ideal hiking conditions, except for one day when the day hike needed to be cancelled due to rain. Nights were frosty, but anticipation of the day as well as thoughts of the lovely breakfast to come encouraged us to leave our warm sleeping bags, perform the usual calisthenics to dress in the tent, wash in the cold creek and begin a new day.

On our final day, I asked our fellow guests what inspired them the most about our adventure. Thoughtful answers hit all the high points: the sight of the horse train winding up the mountain on our third day; the day trip to Goat Mountain with views into the heart of the Rainbow Range; the day trip to Red Mountain and the Red Rocks; the Irish stew on our last evening; the camaraderie, stories and songs around the campfire; the care given by the crew to the horses; watching the cooks and guessing what would go in the pots and on the grill; the wonderful meals cooked on the grill; the wide open valleys; and, above all, the stunning scenery.

For me and Alois, it was like joining a big cheerful family that we were happy to be included in. Listening to the stories of our Chilcotin crew, I realized they have always lived in what we call the wilderness and they call home, living lives much like the pioneers we read about from earlier days.

It was difficult to say goodbye to our new friends, with whom we had created such beautiful memories, and to the crew who have found a place in our hearts. I was as much inspired by the people sharing our adventure, as the journey itself.

IF YOU GO:
Rainbow Mountain Outfitters
Contact: Leslie Dorsey Witt at rainbowmountainoutfitters@gmail.com
Website: www.rainbowadventures.com
A good alternative, if you are unable to hike, or as an add-on: Tweedsmuir Air’s able pilots will fly you over the Rainbow Range, the Monarch Ice fields and views of the Turner Lake Chain and Hunlen Falls. All spectacular!
Tweedsmuir Air
Contact: Duncan Stewart at fly@TweedsmuirAir.com
Website: www.tweedsmuirair.com