SAILING ON PORTUGAL’S “RIVER OF GOLD”

It is easy to be overwhelmed by the beauty of the Douro River Valley as we sail toward Porto. Only 10 days ago, I arrived in Lisbon to begin my tour of Portugal and I have fallen in love with this culturally rich nation and its natural beauty.

Come along with me as I tell you about my time in Portugal with Viking River Cruises.

LISBON

Before setting sail, I was able to tour Lisbon, its historic neighbourhoods, monuments and two world-class museums.

Remember world history and all those explorers and dates you had to memorize? It all came back to me when I visited the Maritime Museum in the heart of the city. Located in the west wing of Jerónimos Monastery, the museum – with more than 17,000 items – helps explain in detail Portugal’s domination of the seas.

I was in awe of all the Portuguese accomplished. From the beginning of The Age of Discovery in 1279 when King Diniz set out to improve Portugal’s emerging navy, Portugal was at the forefront of navigating the world’s waterways.

Other highlights for me were two 18th century ceremonial barges, a 19th-century royal cabin from the yacht of Queen Amelia, and the seaplane Santa Cruz that made the first crossing of the south Atlantic in 1922.

The National Tile Museum traces the origins of Portugal’s famous tilework from the 16th century to present day. Housed in the Madre de Deus Convent, the painted tiles tell a story of what was important artistically at the time of their creation and everyday life. As much as geometric designs were popular, so were artistic and religious renderings.

PORTO

From Lisbon, we travelled north toward Porto and our ship, the Viking Osfrid, stopping along the way in Coimbra. Exploring the city centre, I gained an understanding of its role as Portugal’s medieval capital for more than a century.

We also visited the University of Coimbra. Established in 1290 in Lisbon and moved to its present location in 1537, it is one of the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world.

Porto is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon; its city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After settling into my room aboard the ship, I took a grand tour of the city famous for its port wine. Indeed, over the next few days, I will hear more about the famous wine as we sail along the Douro River into the heart of wine-producing country.

Stops along the way include Porto Cathedral, an impressive house of worship, and Sao Bento Railway Station. The station is adorned with approximately 20,000 painted tiles dating from 1905 to 1916. They were composed by Jorge Colaço, an important painter of the time. There was tile everywhere in the city; on the façades of great churches, along the inside of highway tunnels, on private homes and businesses.

We visited neighbourhoods with narrow cobblestone streets, were offered panoramic views of the river and saw where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean.

In addition to included tours, Viking Cruises also offers optional tours. On one of these tours I discovered Guimaraes, known as the birthplace of Portugal. Originally settled in the ninth century, it was Portugal’s first capital and the birthplace of its first king.

From the 10th century castle and 15th century palace to the 18th century convent, we stroll along the medieval streetscapes as we explore the UNESCO designated site.

A PALACE AND A MEDIEVAL VILLAGE

We set sail and head inland. On both sides of the river are terraced vineyards. The grapevines follow the curve of every hill. This deep green scene is framed by the pastel blue of the sky and the sapphire river.

When we arrived in Régua, proclaimed the hub of the wine region in 1756 by the Marques de Pombal, we headed for Mateus Palace & Gardens. Built in the first half of the 18th century, the palace is one of the finest representations of Baroque civil architecture in Portugal. Although the family still lives here, we were allowed into the four season’s room, ladies parlour, gentleman’s parlour, dining room and, my favourite, the library.

The gardens, modelled after Versailles, feature different areas separated by hedges. One leafy wall framed a rainbow of different coloured roses.

Castelo Rodrigo, although humble in its size and posture, played an important role in the fight between Portugal and Spain for territory along the Côa River, a tributary of the Douro. This medieval village looks much the same way it did in the 16th century with its cobblestone streets and stone houses.

I wandered along the winding streets, explored castle ruins and shopped for candied almonds, olive oil and souvenir items made from Portugal’s’ famous cork.

SALAMANCA, SPAIN

For history lovers, shoppers or anyone wanting to sit at a sidewalk café and watch the world go by, Salamanca is a wonderful destination. A UNESCO designated city, I started my exploration in Plaza Major, built in the 18th century, before heading down one of the pedestrian streets towards the cathedrals.

Construction of the New Cathedral began in the 16th century and was completed in 1728. Its interior is made up of many chapels, chambers and naves. As priceless as its artifacts are and as impressive as its architecture is, I preferred the Old Cathedral located next door. Entrance is through a passageway between the cathedrals.

The Old Cathedral was started in the 12th century in the romantic style and continued in the following centuries. Walls are painted with frescoes hundreds of years old and a museum here shows many ancient artifacts. During my visit, there was a wedding and I sat for a few moments taking in the scene of love, beauty and memories being made.

The last must-see is the University of Salamanca. It is the oldest in Spain by date of foundation, at the beginning of the 13th century. One building has a “plateresca wall,” which is carved in stone as if it were gold with the head of the Catholic Monarchs and the Emperor, Charles V´s shield.

As I shopped throughout the day, I came across everything imaginable made into the image of a frog: key chains, toys, statues and t-shirts. When I visited the university, a local guide told me that traditionally if a student found the frog in the “plateresca wall” they would have good luck. It is perched high up on a skull’s head. I was fortunate; my guide showed me where it was. I would never have found it on my own.

HEADING WEST

On our way back towards Porto, we have two more stops.

In Favaios, we visited a traditional bakery where bread is baked in an oven heated with wood and old grapevines. A museum in the village also tells why bread making and wine production are so important to the tiny village.

The most visited attraction in Lamego is the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Remedies, built in 1750, which stands gracefully above the town. Hundreds of steps lead up to the church.

The church rises at one end of the main thoroughfare and at the other end is the 18th century Episcopal palace now housing the town’s museum. Many priceless treasures are kept here, including important work by the Portuguese master Vasco Fernandes.

Also along this main street is Lamego Cathedral. Built in the 12th century by the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, it was in this town that his ascension to the throne was announced.

All too soon my Portugal adventure is coming to an end. I sit on the sundeck and take one last look at the beautiful Douro River valley before returning to Porto. Tomorrow I will fly back to reality taking with me hundreds of photos and countless memories of this beautiful country… and a frog from Salamanca.

IF YOU GO:
For more information: www.vikingcruises.com, (855) 338-4546 or your local travel agent.

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