It could be Tsawwassen terminal, a ferry berth we frequent regularly when heading to Vancouver Island. Even though the waiting lanes and refreshment stand look similar, the white caps and green islets beyond remind us that we’re not in Kansas, Toto. Nor are we anywhere near our West Coast homeland.
After a 70-minute cruise, we’ve glided over Northumberland Strait and crossed the aquatic border from Nova Scotia to PEI.
And from that moment (pardon the cliché), time seems to stand still.
Maybe it’s because by mid-September the tourist season has wound down. Most of the bus-tour attractions and chock-full campgrounds have closed and finding a seaside diner that dishes up the daily catch might be challenging. But no big deal. This peaceful place is heavenly to us. There’s no urgency to get anywhere anytime, and as people drive by, they actually wave.
“Do we know that guy?” my husband, Brent, asks, cranking his head to get a better look. After the third car passes, accompanied by the same hand action, it’s pretty clear. This gesture (that takes us back a generation or two) is still a local courtesy on PEI. And we gladly reciprocate.
Although this province is one lovely land mass, due to the many geological curves along the coastline, it appears to be divided into three: North Cape, Central Coast and Points East. The capital and main hub is Charlottetown. And it’s here, at Dundee Arms Inn, we make our home base. The 1903 Queen-Anne-style house and annex offers both rooms with Old World charm and contemporary decor. A complementary continental breakfast is served daily accompanied by congenial PEI hospitality.
We arrive in time to take a stroll and get a feel for the city. A boardwalk, anchored by a conference centre, is sandwiched between the marina and colourful emporiums. Queen and Great George are two of the main downtown streets where we find everything, from bookstores to gift shops. Stately churches, Confederation Centre of the Arts and City Hall intermingle with heritage brick beauties and are all photo-worthy.
And when the hunger pangs hit, unlike rural island areas this time of year, there are lots of dining options. The Hopyard is one of our favourites. This trendy eatery combines vinyl tunes with assorted craft beer and a tasty, reasonable menu that changes weekly. And both The Gahan House and The Olde Dublin dish up great pub grub.
The best way to explore PEI is to get out of the hub and put our pedal to the metal. Over the next two days, it feels like we own the road.
From Charlottetown, we follow Route 2 passing by rolling field after rolling field. Some are ruddy coloured, rich with iron-oxide, others are vibrant green or shimmering gold. Like a beautiful patchwork quilt, they cloak the countryside and wrap around heritage homes, quaint churches and red-roofed barns.
“Over 88,000 acres of potatoes are grown here every year?” my travelling encyclopedia a.k.a. husband states. “They’ve been harvesting spuds here since the late 1700s.”
Although this statistic is new to me, based on the number of crops (and loaded potato trucks) that we breeze by, it’s obvious – farming is a way of life on PEI.
The fishing industry is a stiff competitor. In the many bays we pass, buoys bobble over thriving oyster beds, markers float above mounds of muscles, and lobster traps pile up next to sea-going vessels. And propped up fishing boats take up space in many of the driveways and front yards.
As well as pastoral settings, pretty villages and fragrant forests, our 475 km East Coastal Drive loops by vacated golf courses, campgrounds, cottages and diners. During the summer months, all would be bustling.
Today, it’s quiet and tranquil. We’re good with that. And, of course, the 50 beautiful beaches that rim this region’s shoreline never close. Beaver, Shipwreck Point and Savage are all sandy strips that get washed by the chilly Gulf of St Lawrence. Lakeside Crowbush Cove is one of our favourites along this northern section. A boardwalk links the parking lot to this lovely crescent, and white-tipped waves lap over its gentle sloping shore.
Greenwich Dunes in Prince Edward Island National Park is another must-visit. The 4.5km-round-trip trek is worth it. A fairytale-looking boardwalk rolls across the pristine wetlands and leads us to the largest dunes on the island. Interpretive boards and a centre provide an overview of the area’s history and archaeological findings that date back 10,000 years.
The Coastal Drive continues to the Eastern Point Lighthouse, but there are several roads that bisect the island, allowing a short cut to the other side. After a quick cruise, we’re facing the Northumberland Strait, a warmer waterway that lures swimmers. Even at this time of year.
“It’s not bad,” says Brent, when putting his tootsies beyond the tide line at Red Point Provincial Park. This playground draws in hoards of outdoor hounds in the warmer months, but today we’re solo and loving the serenity.
Towns along the way also have that laid-back feel. Souris, Montague and Murray Harbour all deserve a look-see. And don’t leave out those lighthouses. Our favourite and final stop on this East Coast drive is Pt. Prim, the first brick lighthouse to beacon sailors on PEI – and to all of Canada.
With only one day left and not enough time to explore both the North Cape and Central Coast, we opt for the latter.
The beaches pale in comparison, but this region makes up for it in scenic overload. Picture-perfect pastures seem to roll into the sea, pristine parklands meld with world-class attractions and the names of a few tickety-boo townships remind me of home. Clinton, Hope River, Victoria. No, Toto, we’re still not on the West Coast! But it is the famous landmark for Anne of Green Gables. Bus loads come in droves to check out this well-known site and get the historical scoop.
“We had 195,000 visitors this past summer,” the tour guide shares. “You’ve come at the right time.” Brent does the math. On average, that’s around 2,000 a day. It’s hard to believe, as there are only a handful of us browsing through the renowned house today.
Our final viewpoint is Confederation Bridge, an astronomical feat that spans Northumberland Strait. Tomorrow, we’ll be crossing it, a 15-minute journey from PEI to New Brunswick. And as if clicking my heels three times, we’ll be transported away from this peaceful province, a place where people are as friendly as your next-door neighbour and time seems to stand still.
IF YOU GO:
www.tourismpei.com
Where to Stay:
Dundee Arms Inn – www.eden.travel/DUNDEE
Where to Dine:
The Hopyard Beer Bar – http://hopyard.ca/
The Gahan House – www.gahan.ca
The Olde Dublin Pub – www.oldedublinpub.com
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