“How about a Christmas of sun, surf and sand?” gives rise to cheers louder than a mariachi band from our five sons and their families. Being scattered across Canada, it has been a long time since all our children and grandchildren have spent a holiday season together. Most reside in Manitoba (brrrr), and since my husband Rick and I retired in British Columbia 12 years ago, we do our best to avoid prairie winters – adding another sound reason to round’em up and head’em down south.
The Royal Decameron Resort in Puerto Vallarta is the perfect spot to let’em loose, as with 18 family members ranging in age from 7 to 68 (me) ideas about what is considered fun differs, and each family following their own agenda during the day is a sanity-saver. Our three youngest grandchildren can’t get enough pool and ocean time; their skin resembling potatoes left too long in a bin. Our older grandkids and we adults cultivate tans (some more flaming red from not gauging the overzealous tropical sun). Rick often drags me away for a walk along the shoreline; his ulterior motive is another go at hefting the beach bar-bells, and most mornings find us pondering moves on a giant outdoor chess board under palms rustled by ocean breezes.
Rick and I forgo adrenaline-junkie escapades, such as when our flock leave on quads over teeth-rattling dirt paths, but we are always ready for fun walks with the whole gang to the nearby town of Bucerias. En route the first time, I shout, “I may have sunstroke! Or does everyone see British Columbia license plates on vehicles.” Locals have amusingly dubbed their community BCerias for the volume of people from our fair province frequenting the area, renting apartments or purchasing condos.
Over the “Kissing Bridge” (and a stop to follow tradition with a smooch), the quaint town centre explodes with a taste of culture. Old men sit and smoke on benches facing the sea, seemingly reliving the past. Local families with children in tow go about their business. Tarp-covered souvenir vendors and snack-food wagons line the streets. We delight in our younger grandchildren making purchases with their gift of pesos – Ruby (aged 7) a sparkly pink purse, Breanna (also 7) corn-row-braided hair, and Leif (aged 9) a hand-woven name bracelet.
Our daily routine is for each family breakfasting and lunching “when ready,” but come suppertime we all descend upon the buffet to heap our plates and swap stories about our day like a flock of riotous macaws.
With turn-taking to care for wee ones snuggled in bed, evenings are for the rest of us to reminisce about younger years together over a Mexican beer or cocktails with names like “No Way José” and “Pink Panther.” Our young teen grandson tosses back wild fruit-juice concoctions. Our over-18 grandkids strut their nascent adult status by taking in the resort’s disco. No longer being night hawks, Rick and I mosey to our room before midnight, so not sure how long the merry-making goes on… probably a good thing.
Christmas Eve calls for a formal à la carte feast at the resort’s Italian Restaurant. After divine shrimp risotto and beef medallion, topped-off with exquisite tiramisu, we hop taxi-vans to a small church, for which understanding Spanish is not needed to be caught up in the joyous Christmas celebration.
Santa found his way to Grandma and Grandpa’s room during the night, much to the relief of three afore mentioned pint-size-ers, who gleefully shred wrapping paper and spend hours absorbed in their new acquisitions.
Christmas Day’s supper choice is Mexican Fusion – delectable tamale, shrimp-stuffed enchiladas, melt-in-your-mouth sweets, ample good wine and much laughter. With the exchanging of small gifts and loving sentiments, I don’t disappoint the family waiting for me to succumb to my ocular version of Niagara Falls.
On our last full day together, all are on-board for the grand finale – a private whale watching/snorkeling charter. We know a whale-of-a-time is in store when Kimi, our guide, has us in stiches within minutes with his humorous quips, while a focused “el captán” mans the wheel, and deckhands rig the sails.
Curious and playful dolphins crest the water in twos alongside the boat, some crossing underneath and popping up on the opposite side. Our captain suddenly veers to the right and steers us to the outer circle of a half-dozen whale-watching rigs. “Ha,ha, they don’t like your boat,” taunts Kimi as the whales leave the other boats already in the ring and move closer to ours.
One gigantic fellow surfaces with a fire-hose velocity geyser of air and water from his blow hole. An eye the size of a dinner plate looks us over before his massive girth swells out of the water, rounds downward and with a resounding tail slap leaves a large shimmering water-mirror in its wake. Squeals and cheers escape us!
It is then onto the grey volcanic rock of the Marieta Islands. The ledges are heavy with Cormorants. Magnificent Frigates with two-metre wingspans surf the air waves, ready to swoop at lightning speed and snatch prey from the mouths of other species. Kimi points and shouts, “Blue-footed Boobies over there! They’re only found in two places in the world – the Galapagos and these Pacific islands.”
The motorboat being towed behind our vessel is brought portside for us to board with our snorkel gear. Kimi doles out instructions on the way to an island with a sizable arch, which we are to snorkel through to a hidden beach. I nervously slip into the thrashing waves, but within moments my jitters are forgotten in this world of dazzling coral and colourful fishes. Leif, who had splurged on a disposable underwater camera, darts about like a red snapper capturing us in the deep blue. Back on board we swap notes about our exhilarating experience.
With the next day’s dawn, flights take us back to the mundane. The prairie families are met with -35 degrees Celsius, making us Vancouverites thankful for our rainy +2. From morning smiles over full-bodied coffee to magical sunsets, much of Rick’s and my enjoyment entailed watching our brood frolicking in this carefree setting. Our Mexican Family Christmas is one that will long be remembered in our minds and hearts… and at least a thousand shared photos.
IF YOU GO:
Planning a family-included trip:
Plan early – (we started planning in June) so adults can arrange holiday time from work. School breaks at Christmas are usually the same in all provinces. Easter may also work.
Expense – Although Christmas is the most costly, 10 or more people are considered a “group” by most booking companies thus qualifying for a group rate. If other-than-peak season works for your family, all the better as prices drop drastically.
All-inclusive best – so pesos/dollars are only needed for shopping, off-resort excursions, and tips for good service at the resort.
Boat Excursions – check the type of boat – many are catamaran-style with no shelter from the sun for tour duration. We reviewed our options with JD Tours www.jdtoursvallarta.com who booked “Pegaso Chartering” for a dual motor/sail boat with a sun-reprieve canopy section.
Royal Decameron Resort: Located in Bucerias (Riviera Nayarit) – 20 min from Puerto Vallarta International Airport – 620 air-con rooms, each with a private balcony and ocean or garden view, 5 pools, 8 restaurants, bars, nightclub, spa and gym.
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