NOTES FROM THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

Haida Gwaii, an archipelago located 90 km off the North Pacific Coast of British Columbia.

Journal Entry – It’s blowing like crazy. Yellowish foam stacks up on the rocky shore and everywhere you look its grey water, grey sky, grey mountains; unless you turn around then it’s dark trees and pumpkin-coloured buildings topped with red roofs. Yesterday it was warm, and dead calm out on the water. We hiked along the north trail through giant cedar and fir trees. The trail follows the shore most of the way and ends at a small river. We discovered a few trees down and will come back later to clear them. We’ll mark the spot with flagging tape on the beach so we can bring the GIANT chainsaw by skiff. Must be careful though, we’re completely alone out here on the edge of the world.

The Backstory
My husband, Brian, and I accidentally fell into the job as caretakers at a remote (that means no roads) fishing lodge on Haida Gwaii. When my nephew first offered us the job, we immediately checked out the website and pictured ourselves cozied up by a crackling fire with steaming mugs of cocoa, watching winter storms, dining on gourmet meals with wonderful wine (did we really think the chef would still be there?), splashing in the hot tub, and enjoying the gym and sauna. Oh, and check the property and the generator. We quickly packed up rain gear, our sea kayak, books, computers, and other projects we’d been putting off and headed for the coast. Ah, yes – the perfect autumn retreat on the water.

Getting to our new place of work was an adventure in itself. After the four-hour drive to Prince Rupert from our home in Smithers, we waited a day for the gale force winds to stop and then hopped on a four-seater float plane, with kayak strapped to the pontoon. We arrived 90 minutes later to our home for the next two months.

Right away we saw it wasn’t what we expected. The close-down crew had removed the floating pier and four floating buildings. The massive log lodges were encased in grey tarps, the water was turned off and the hot tubs were empty. At least 35 boats were scattered over the grounds along with stinky barnacle-covered platforms stacked next to the cook shack.

Journal Entry – Our accommodation is basically a hippie-like surf shack perched over a fern laden creek. The cabin is set back amongst the perpetually dripping trees and next to the sewage treatment plant, boat shed, rusting machinery, oil drums, and a couple of huge incinerators.

It has a large sleeping loft, bathroom, living room with wood stove and a lovely outdoor shower on the upper back balcony. I can grab a cedar branch while I shower and enjoy the scent of moss and forest. It’s a two-minute walk to the staff cook shack that serves as our kitchen. We laugh at how our expectations vs reality are so far apart, but still, we are perfectly comfortable and happy.
Journal Entry – Before we arrived, our helpful friends were delighted to give us advice.

1. It rains sideways there, so take rubber rain gear.
2. Make sure you watch the movie The Shining before you go.
3. You’re crazy, you’ll die out there.
4. Haida Gwaii is home to the biggest black bears in the world.

Well, 30 days here so far and we’re still alive, have no intention of watching a horror movie, and our rain gear has been well used. Big John and Little John, the resident black bears, do more property checks than we do. They lumber along the boardwalks, investigate every container, leave muddy footprints outside our door and poop everywhere. So far, we’re living together peacefully.

Journal Entry – I’m surprised how much I like the mechanical stuff. To date, I have learned how to change air, oil, and fuel filters on the generator; open the valve on the top of the outboard motor so it will keep running; find the tiny fuel filter on the log splitter and change it so it will start; and run a loader/skid steer. YouTube helps me every time and Brian taught me how to drive the loader.

Journal Entry – Our fresh food groceries are delivered only if the weather is favourable. The open boat has to nip out to the exposed Pacific before it ducks into our sheltered harbour. We’ve learned to place our order BEFORE the potato chip cravings get too strong. We won’t starve though; the walk-in freezer is full of food and the New York Cheesecake is one of our best-loved dinner items.

Journal Entry – Did I mention the weather? As Brian says, “sounds like a tanker full of water was just dumped on the roof.” Forecast today is for a weather bomb over the North Coast and reads as: “Strong southeast winds that may cause damage will develop this morning.” I can hear it arriving now – will keep you posted.

Damage report: The huge cement block and gravel Heli-landing was washed away, a few downspouts and roof parts retreated into the forest and all kinds of objects ended up on the lawns.

Journal Entry – There are days when Brian and I barely cross paths. We both have our own favourite projects. I like organizing shelves, cleaning, painting and figuring out how to get some machine to work. Brian likes playing with the chainsaw, doing carpentry projects, and washing floors. It turns out we can’t just sit around and have the kind of retreat we first imagined. The change of scenery, the isolation, and the challenge of learning a few new things have made this the perfect autumn retreat.

It’s blowing like crazy out there right now and the fog has erased the horizon. Not the right conditions for a float plane to land and take us home. That’s okay, we’re well prepared to wait awhile. That’s life on the edge of the world.

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