“Living is like tearing through a museum. Not until later do you really start absorbing what you saw, thinking about it, looking it up in a book, and remembering – because you can’t take it in all at once.”
–Audrey Hepburn
The ever-brilliant Audrey Hepburn got it right, but this was no Breakfast at Tiffany’s! Here I am deep inside Cairo’s Egyptian Antiquities Museum scrutinizing the miniature ivory figurine of King Khufu, builder of the Great Pyramid at Giza (c2500 BC), the largest Egyptian pyramid and the only one of Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still in existence.
This 4,600-year-old statuette is considered one of the most valuable artifacts in the museum: ironically, Khufu’s only surviving statue is the smallest piece of Egyptian royal sculpture ever discovered at just 7.5 cm high. I couldn’t take it in all at once, and this Canadian traveller needed to know more.
EGYPT: DISCOVER THE PHARAOHS
Research and exploration are the main goals of all my trips. So, when I had a chance to join a small group of Australians ready to explore Egypt, Israel and Jordan, I jumped at the opportunity: three countries, three weeks, 16 Aussies and me, the token Canadian, eh!
This fully escorted journey through time launched in Cairo with a memorable stop in Giza: suddenly, that tiny Khufu became real in the shadows of his Great Pyramid, one of the oldest travel destinations on the planet. Greek and Roman travellers visited these very sites – I felt infinitely insignificant in the dust of their footprints.
Abou Ahmed was the first of three brilliant tour guides that welcomed us to each country. Abou explained that the pyramids were built to provide the pharaohs with a staircase to the afterlife. This knowledgeable Egyptologist reminded us that despite steep, narrow interior corridors, each of the royal tombs had been looted over the millennia, so they are now empty. I was also surprised that those scars on the face of The Great Sphinx are not solely due to erosion – the monument was used for target practice by conquering Ottoman soldiers, French troops, or both – depending on whose story you believe. And oh, the stories! Every stop throughout our journey had its own story.
A one-hour flight took us from Cairo to Luxor, the ancient city of Thebes, and the beginning of a magnificent five-day Nile River Cruise. Travelling with Australians is always a party, and this little cruise ship added to the fun with nightly entertainment and classic buffets of local and international foods. Abou explained that the earliest pharaohs considered themselves to be living gods and ruled with absolute power while building numerous temples, monuments and burial tombs along the Nile. We saw the most impressive:
• Luxor Temple (c1390 BC): An avenue of human-headed sphinxes connects the temples of Karnak and Luxor – this temple was built by many pharaohs over centuries, including Tutankhamun, Rameses II and Cleopatra. We arrived at dusk for a visit during an unforgettable light show.
• Valley of the Kings: It was only after we had booked a Luxor Balloon Ride that we discovered the 3:30 a.m. departure time! Only the loud noise of the burners blasting hot air into our balloon broke the silence as we soared over the Valley of the Kings, this necropolis of the pharaohs. Later in the day, we explored a half dozen of the more than 65 royal tombs in this “Gateway to the Afterlife.” Many have been visited since antiquity (and have the graffiti to prove it), but Tutankhamun’s treasure trove was just discovered in 1922.
• Abu Simbel (c1300 BC): Our Nile Cruise disembarked at Aswan at 4 a.m. for a 3.5-hour coach trip to the incredible twin temples of Abu Simbel. The temples were originally carved out of the mountainside during the reign of Pharaoh Ramses II as a monument to himself and his queen, Nefertari. Abou saved the best of Egypt for this astonishing visit… what a finale!
ISRAEL: SACRED SITES AND BEACH RESORTS
Our group took a return flight to Cairo, bid farewell to Abou, and then flew on to Tel Aviv and fascinating Israel, a destination brimming with archeological, cultural and sacred stories. Tel Aviv is a modern city on the Mediterranean Sea, rich in culture and beachside pleasures.
Mira, our Israeli tour guide, knew all the ropes and skillfully maneuvered her charges across this diverse and beautiful country. She introduced us to Caesarea, the ancient city of Herod the Great (22-10 BC), Haifa, and the historic walled city of Akko before moving on to these sacred sites:
• Jerusalem’s Old City is the spiritual centre of the world for Jews, Muslims and Christians, and regardless of your religious inclination, it is profoundly moving. The city is home to several of the most sacred religious sites, namely the Western Wall, Temple Mount, the Dome of The Rock, and Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Our first stop was the Mount of Olives, overlooking the oldest cemetery in the world, before exploring Gethsemane and the ancient alleyways of this 5,000-year-old walled city.
Lions’ Gate leads to The Via Dolorosa, the processional route believed to be the path that Jesus Christ walked on the way to his crucifixion. We marvelled at the 14 Stations of The Cross that lead to the final five stations within The Church of The Holy Sepulchre. Lonely Planet warns to “expect crowds rather than quiet contemplation.” Despite the terrible truth, I was transfixed by the significance of this holiest of Christian pilgrimage sites.
• Bethlehem: There can be no town in the world with such a glorious history and dignified status as the birthplace of Christ. Bethlehem is just across the “Green Line” in the West Bank and is completely under Palestinian rule – razor wire, armed border guards, multiple passport checks, and souvenir shops stand in stark contrast to Manger Square and The Church of the Nativity, one of the oldest surviving Christian churches.
• Masada: This astonishing fort is situated atop a rock plateau on the shore of the Dead Sea. A cable car delivered us up to one of the most famous archaeological sites in Israel, built as a palace complex by Herod the Great, King of Judea (reigned 37–4 BC). Its violent destruction and the epic last stand of Jewish patriots in the face of the Roman army (73 AD) gives it great importance as a symbol of determination and heroism that continues to this day with many Israeli soldiers.
I was saddened to leave Israel the next morning – so much more to learn – but we were scheduled to cross the border into Jordan. I counted at least a dozen passport checks… so it was a relief to meet Ahmad, our jolly Jordanian guide who seemed to know everybody! Then it was back on a bus for our drive north to Aqaba, Jordan’s only seaport and our beautiful beachside resort on the Red Sea.
JORDAN: DESERT WILDERNESS AND ANCIENT MONUMENTS
Jordan is an ancient Arab nation defined by desert wilderness and ancient monuments. Truly stunning Wadi Rum is just an hour’s drive west of Aqaba and an unexpected surprise in an idyllic desert location. Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here and, like him, we took an exciting jeep tour and camel ride across a landscape of red-pink sand, stunning natural arches and mountains, and prehistoric rock engravings. Night was spent under a blanket of stars in the splendid Bedouin Rahayed Desert Camp before travelling north for a closer look at the best of Jordan’s ancient monuments:
• Petra: I had heard about this ancient city, but nothing could prepare me for the stunning reality of a vast, unique complex carved entirely from the sheer rockface of a red sandstone canyon. Arab Nabateans built this beautiful capital city more than 2,000 years ago as an important junction for silk and spice trade routes that linked three continents. Its famous Treasury, monumental tombs, temples and palaces make it one of Jordan’s national treasures.
• Visits to crumbling crusader castles were somewhat less memorable than our beachside resort on the Dead Sea, a lake at the lowest point on earth almost 400m below sea level. As the name implies, it is entirely devoid of life since its high salt content is more than four times the salinity of most oceans. However, we proved a lively and raucous group of swimmers stumbling over each other on the shallow beach. Swimming is impossible; floating is a pushover!
• The road to Amman took us to Mount Nebo, a pilgrimage destination from the earliest Christian times. According to Biblical tradition, this elevated plateau is the sacred place where the prophet Moses was granted a view of The Promised Land and later buried – on a clear day the panorama includes The River Jordan and Jerusalem on the horizon.
Our journey continued past pine forests and olive groves to our destination in Amman (7200 BC), one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It provided a perfect base for day trips to Jerash – reputed to be the best-preserved Greco-Roman city in the world today – and Umm Qais, which offered breathtaking views over the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights and the southern borders of Syria.
In many ways, Umm Qais defines all the ancient conflicts that have accompanied territorial struggle. In that quiet moment, it crossed my mind that these Syrian fields in front of me continue to be plagued by roadside bombs and terrorist activity.
This adventure was my gateway to the past. So many ancient treasures… so much conflict… so many questions for further research. Audrey Hepburn suggested looking it up in a book. I’m grateful for travel – and Google.
Ian Carter is a retired educator and mental health professional, published author, freelance writer, photographer, and inveterate world traveller. He welcomes contact at: heritagematters@bellaliant.net
IF YOU GO:
Safety:
This question haunts travellers to the Middle East: everyone asks, “But is it safe?”
Expect to see armed Tourist Police, civil guards, watch towers and multiple passport checks everywhere you go. But I was reassured by the caring, skillful and knowledgeable guides in each country and always felt safe and comfortable. The Middle East is living, breathing proof of an old maxim: you don’t know, until you go.
Getting There:
Spring and fall are preferred travel times in The Middle East to take advantage of moderate temperatures.
Travel with a trusted, experienced tour operator offering the comfort of a small group and expert local travel guides. I travelled with Bunnik Tours, an Australian tour operator specializing in small group travel. They offer Middle East tours to international clients on a Land Only basis with all ground arrangements and internal flights included in the Land Only cost. International airfares can be calculated separately depending on the Canadian city of departure.
Dining:
International and local cuisine are all available. Part of the culinary adventure is tasting falafel, kebabs, mezze, pita bread, shawarma, beef kafta, and kushari, a blend of rice, lentils, pasta and chickpeas, accompanied by a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions. Open-pit cooking in Jordan adds to the theatre of the feast.
We were warned to drink bottled water only (no broken seals), give salads a miss, and to only eat fruit you have peeled yourself.
Shopping:
Bargaining is acceptable most everywhere, but don’t bargain unless you really want to buy the item. Sharpen your haggling skills and you could end up with a souvenir.
Street hawkers are everywhere and can be aggressive: my rule is no eye contact, no conversation, and keep walking.
Local Customs and Etiquette:
We were reminded to be respectful when visiting mosques, synagogues and other religious sites. You may be asked to dress modestly, take off your shoes, and cover your head if you’re a woman. Be sensitive when discussing the political situation and maintain your role as a welcomed guest.
Shabbat is the Jewish Sabbath, beginning Friday afternoon until Saturday evening: expect most restaurants and museums to be closed. Friday is a very important day for Muslims with a congregational prayer just after noon and then time with family in the afternoon – restaurants are busy. Muslims are expected to pray five times a day, with outdoor loudspeakers, usually mounted on mosque minarets, calling the faithful to prayer.
Passport, Visa and Health Information:
Canadians require passports valid for at least six months from your return date. Travel agents usually look after visa requirements, but I suggest you check the foreign embassy website for each country for current requirements.
Check this site for vaccination suggestions: https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/health-safety/vaccines
A retired educator and mental health professional, published author, inveterate world traveller, freelance writer and photographer. He welcomes contact by email.