Love Triangle: Brewin’ in the Maritimes

“Give my people plenty of beer, good beer and cheap beer, and you will have no revolution among them.” –Queen Victoria

We can’t be certain about Queen Victoria’s knowledge of history, but I’d like to think she’d heard about her revolutionary subjects who cut short their plans to settle in Virginia and landed instead at Plymouth Rock because they ran out of beer. We can blame the log of The Mayflower for that beer-swilling landing theory: “For we could not now take time for further search our victuals being pretty much spent especially our beer.”

While this writer could never claim to be a pilgrim, I must admit I too am inspired by distant horizons, the open sea, and the promise of new ideas and new worlds. And if there is good beer and smiling faces at the end of the voyage, even better.

That may explain why I have been rigourously researching the practical aspects of beer as a hobby and travel excuse for close to five decades, having drunk beer in more than 160 cities on four continents – so far. And, like the pilgrims, I have found a safe harbour, much like a cozy pub, on our continent’s East Coast, taking up residence in Canada’s smallest province, Prince Edward Island. So, I’d invite you to think about these scribbles as a flight of beer, with a trio of samples of the best that Maritime Canada has to offer.

Incidentally, for those of you travelling to The Maritimes for the first time, you may want to think about starting in my historic home town of Charlottetown, arranging a car rental, and making your way to Nova Scotia via the Confederation Bridge and New Brunswick before heading to Halifax, less than a four-hour drive down the road. Great flight connections out of Halifax are guaranteed to get you home with a smile on your face!

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

“Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy.” –Benjamin Franklin

Mike Ross is the man to bridge Canada’s east and west coasts with family and friends in Vancouver, and now the owner of Charlottetown’s newest and hippest gastropub. Hopyard sports the motto “Beer – Food – Vinyl,” with 10 taps pouring craft beer from PEI and across North America, as well as quality wines, spirits, snacks and small entrées by award-winning chef Jane Crawford.

Mike readily acknowledges that “hip moves from west to east, so as where BC has an enormous craft beer scene, the east coast is probably a good five years behind with PEI lagging behind NS and NB. That being said, the growth up to now has been incredible and the flow of acceptance is building… from a tourism perspective, everyone wants local.”

This congenial publican’s comments remind me that Canada could have 600 operating breweries or more by the beginning of this year. The craft beer industry is brewing up big suds, with both BC and Atlantic Canada seeing an increase of about 50 per cent in the last five years.

Our Island may be small, but we are mighty, with four craft breweries worth checking out:

1. The Gahan House: This brewpub is always busy with an impressive range of handcrafted ales made on site, including favourites like Island Red Amber Ale and Sir John A’s Honey Wheat Ale.

2. PEI Brewing Company: The Island’s largest craft brewery operation with a wide range of award-winning brews, comfy lounge, event space and a welcoming bar staff. Hourly brewery tours with beer sampling thrown in!

3. Upstreet Craft Brewing: Popular with locals, with board games, great company, and exceptional taproom tapas after 3 p.m. Don’t leave town without tasting Rhuby Social, the right mix of sweet Island flavours and salty Island characters.

4. Barnone Craft Brewery: This is the Island’s newest farm craft brewery and only hopyard. A 20-minute drive west of Charlottetown, open Thursday evenings only. Phone ahead… we’re talking Down Home here!

Linger Awhile:
PEI will be the centre of it all for Canada’s 150th Anniversary. Make time for charming Charlottetown, the Birthplace of Confederation, the Charlottetown Festival – home to the long-running Anne of Green Gables: The Musical – coastal drives, world-class golf and some of the finest seafood in the world.

NEW BRUNSWICK

“When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.” –Henny Youngman

Head to The Confederation Bridge for a brisk 90-minute drive to New Brunswick. Urban pleasures await in NB’s three largest cities of Moncton, Fredericton and Saint John, home to Canada’s oldest continuing farmers’ market. Gastropubs and bistros feature the best brews of the province’s more than 20 microbreweries. The larger breweries include:

1.  Pump House Brewery: The Pump House has won many brewing and business awards, including Canada’s “Brewery of the Year.” Be sure to try Fire Chief’s Red Ale, a very agreeable ale with a nut-like maltiness.

2.  Picaroons: The largest craft beer operation in the province with locations in Fredericton, St. John and pubs across the province. An impressive range of traditional British-style ales, including the unique Gourd Browny, a tragically hopped brown ale, and 506 Lager, a dry and crisp twist on a German pilsner.

Linger Awhile:
New Brunswick boasts the highest tides in the world and some of the best sightseeing pleasures are along the Bay of Fundy where lighthouses, beaches, cliffs and caves invite exploration. Check the tide tables and make time for Hopewell Rocks, where you can walk on the ocean floor at low tide before moving on to the rugged shores and pristine wilderness of Fundy National Park.

NOVA SCOTIA

“I feel sorry for people who don’t drink. When they wake up in the morning, that’s as good as they’re going to feel all day.” –Frank Sinatra

Nova Scotia’s craft brewing has exploded in the last 20 years.
I asked Jeff Green, Sales Manager at Garrison Brewing, to describe the state of the craft beer industry in the Maritimes today. Without hesitation, he responded:

“In a word? Exploding! We are at close to 40 operational breweries in NS and I know of at least eight to 10 in the works (likely more). Not only in the major centres like Halifax, but in small rural communities throughout the province. Most importantly – the beer is fantastic.”

How’s that for an invitation to sample some of the best?

1. Garrison Brewing: Garrison is conveniently located on the Halifax waterfront between Pier 21 Immigration Museum and the buzz of the popular Saturday morning market at Halifax Seaport. Imperial I.P.A. has become known as the hoppiest beer in Atlantic Canada, certain to impress beer lovers everywhere.

2. Propeller Brewing Company: Propeller is one of Halifax’s micro-brew originals, and located close to the Halifax waterfront – a great place to not only fill up your growler, but also makes a perfect location to chill out in their Tasting Room. Propeller offers a full tour of their brewery and explanation of their brewing process. Try London-Style Porter, a malty tipple with hints of coffee and chocolate.

Linger Awhile:
Taste of Nova Scotia recently launched the Good Cheer Trail to highlight locally produced craft breweries, distilleries and wineries from Lunenburg to Cape Breton. The Trail unravels a banquet of surprises as it weaves through stunning landscapes, heritage sites, rugged coastlines, beaches, farmlands and cities.

Although I am not quite the beer purist I was while living in England in the 1970s, I remain eager to flaunt my founding membership in Britain’s CAMRA (The Campaign For Real Ale). I continue to seek out the pleasures of good beer and the company that complements it. Maritime adventures are magical… but you will discover that they are even better with local craft beer!

Ian Carter is a retired educator and mental health professional, published author, inveterate world traveller, freelance writer and photographer. He has been a Tour Director with work and travel experiences in 23 countries and is delighted to share travel adventures, insights and practical tips with other Canadians determined to live a lot. Ian welcomes contact for further information and dialogue at: heritagematters@bellaliant.net

IF YOU GO:

PEI
www.tourismpei.com/pei-visitors-guide
Hopyard – 151 Kent St, Charlottetown, 902-367-2599
The Gahan House, 126 Sydney St, Charlottetown, 902-626-2337
PEI Brewing Company, 96 Kensington Rd, Charlottetown, 902-629-2739
Upstreet Craft Brewing, 41 Allen St, Charlottetown, 902-894-0543
Barnone Craft Brewery, Rose Valley – 4248 Route 225, Breadalbane, 902-394-6897

NEW BRUNSWICK
www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/TravelInfo/OrderAGuide.aspx
Pump House Brewery, 5 Orange Lane, Moncton, 506-855-2337

NOVA SCOTIA
www.novascotia.com/travel-guide
Garrison Brewing, 1149 Marginal Rd., Halifax, 902-453-5343
Propeller Brewing Company, 2015 Gottingen St, Halifax, 902-422-7767

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Ian Carter

A retired educator and mental health professional, published author, inveterate world traveller, freelance writer and photographer. He welcomes contact by email.