Heading to Iceland at the end of October may seem to be at odds with the tendency to contemplate a warm place in the sun as winter approaches. But there isn’t too much to decide upon when it comes to what to pack, and it does provide an opportunity for a head start in hauling out those winter boots, gloves and coats. Warm outdoor clothes are definitely needed for a trip to Iceland in the fall. Although temperatures may not be that much different to some of ours, it is the wind that is the challenge, making effective Canadian winter clothes a must for a trip there.
Indoors though, it is an entirely different story as the abundant heat, which comes from deep within volcanic Iceland, is used to heat buildings, provides plenty of piping hot water and creates wonderful thermal-heated outdoor pools in which to relax.
Being the most western European country, of approximately 38,000 square miles, Iceland sits astride the Atlantic ridge, which splits the country in half: one side of the fault is the North American plate and the other is the Eurasian plate. After millions of years of volcanic activity, fierce winds and carving glaciers, the landscape is enticing, forbidding and magical. Whatever happened to form the rest of the world seems to still be going on in Iceland: snow-capped mountains, cliffs, lava fields, glaciers, grasslands, volcanic craters, rushing rivers, basalt columns, coastal ledges and waterfalls are just a few of the grand natural sights to be seen and experienced. The eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010 impacted flights around the world and spawned many documentaries featuring volcanoes and Iceland, in particular. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, people who love to experience nature are now taking a closer look at Iceland as a place to see how our world was, is and may be formed and reformed.
The first to reach Iceland’s shores was a small group of monks. Later, the Norsemen came. Some stayed, some journeyed on. Now Iceland’s population of about 323,000 hosts some 680,000 visitors a year. With tourism being such a major focus, there are many very well-planned ventures for people to experience all aspects of the country.
Reykjavik, the capital, is a city of contrasts from its old working harbour, its magnificent 28,000-square-foot Harpa concert hall, to its most iconic building, the Hallgrimskirkja church. The church can be seen from just about anywhere in the city and, as the highest building, is a great place to get a view of the entire city. From there, the brightly painted homes, sparkling waters of the harbour, and glittering façade of the Harpa can really be enjoyed.
Inside the church, it’s a nice surprise to find such a large building feeling so warm, uplifting and bright; thanks to the clean, uncluttered sweeping design, thermal heat and brilliant sunshine. If you manage to time your visit when the organist is playing, then your visit is truly complete. Somehow the designs of both the Harpa and Hallgrimskirkja seem to embody and reflect the very essence of the Icelandic spirit and its history.
The Tjornin is as popular with people as birds, with its huge pond offering reflective views of the surrounding buildings, one of which is the impressive modern city hall. When the water freezes over, a small area receives a thermal boost to keep it open for the water fowl. That, along with plenty of interesting shops, meandering streets and great restaurants helps keep downtown a vibrant and enjoyable place, especially when the days are short.
What is known as “the circle tour” route allows visitors to see the real Iceland, including the Geysir geothermal field where the mud bubbles, steam bellows out of the ground and geysers spurt high into the air. A stop in Laugarvatn at the Fontana steam baths situated on the lake lets you get right into the natural geothermal steam experience. The three deliciously warm, interconnected outdoor mineral pools overlook the lake and a range of stark mountains in the background. Luxuriously soothing as the baths may be, the rush through the bitingly cold wind to the indoor showers is bracing. It’s at this location that a traditional style of bread is baked by way of burying the cooking container in the sand at the edge of the lake and leaving it to cook in thermal heat overnight. Piping hot bread and lashings of butter make for a great finish to the mineral spa experience.
The historic Thingvellir National Park is where the national assembly was established around 930AD and parliament was convened here until 1798. Iceland’s most important historic events took place here and, as such, it is a designated UNESCO world heritage site. It is also the place where a walk through the parting of the two continents can be taken.
Waterfalls abound in Iceland and one of the most spectacular and popular is the Gulfoss, where the water thunders down through different levels, down yet more drop-offs, curves sharply and proceeds down the crevice, which is 32m deep and about 2.5km in length. The noise is thunderous, the view is stupendous and the wind is unbelievably strong.
Opportunities abound to experience just about every level of adventure from snowmobiling, horseback riding, whale watching, ATV touring, cycling tours, Northern Lights viewing to bus tours, and more. The road east along the south coast leads through dramatic coastal landscapes with sheer cliffs, lava fields, sparkling ocean views and the two magnificent waterfalls – Seljalandsfoss and Skógarfoss, one of which it is possible to walk behind and get a really interesting view. Sólheimajökull is the location for a glacier walk. Fitted out with crampons, it is possible to see different ice features, water cauldrons and crevasses, and learn about the volcanic landscape at close hand. After a tentative start to the expedition, elated climbers descend and travel over the ice surface to be rewarded with the cascading rays of the setting sun that saturates the sky with awe-inspiring majesty.
To learn more about the history of Iceland and its people, a stop at the nearby Skógasafn museum is a must. Examples of life in small turf houses are featured along with wonderful collections of domestic and working life artifacts. The founder of the museum, Þórður Tómasson, was a young lad when he realized the traditional way of life was about to give way to another type of living. He started collecting all the items people were throwing away and his collection eventually resulted in a wonderfully complete, and well-preserved, view of life in Iceland in earlier days. It happens sometimes that the founder will play the organ, and a bus driver of an Icelandic tour group will play the accordion for visitors. If this happens and the visitors know the song, despite singing it in different languages, they can burst into song, and even take up partners for a waltz around the exhibits, if encouraged by certain Canadian visitors.
The challenging landscape and conditions in which Icelanders live means they are particularly resourceful and stalwart, but not without whimsy as is shown by the general fondness for the elves that are believed to dwell within the landscape. Recently, it was the topic of impassioned discussion when a new highway was to be routed through an Elvin domain and the project halted for consideration by the Supreme Court of Iceland. Of another ilk entirely are the Icelandic sagas, which are held in highest regard because the 10th/11th century events of the country are described in this the earliest of Icelandic literature. Sometimes, gatherings around the fireplace in the hotel in the evenings will bring forth readings from the sagas and this experience transports everyone back in time, the same as it did for countless Icelanders over the years.
So, what about the food? With all that thermal heating, Icelanders are embarking on growing fresh vegetables in massive greenhouses. The abundant sheep not only provide a delicious basis for meals, but also drive the thriving Icelandic wool sweater industry. The bakeries contain endless varieties of tasty goods and the coffee is superb everywhere, it seems. Being surrounded by the ocean, the seafood dishes are fresh and delicious.
A small nation with a small population, Iceland has to import a lot of things and this can push the prices up. But if you stick to local as much as possible it’s not a major problem. And the language? That’s not a problem either as English is readily spoken. After a while, those Icelandic names begin to fall easily off your tongue, especially when a local breaks them down and explains what each aspect of the long name means.
The land of fire and ice offers so much more than a short trip can cover. It beckons for us to return both to Iceland – and to the raw nature of the past.
On the web:
www.iceland.is
www.visitreykjavik.is
www.hallgrimskirkja.is
www.skogasafn.is
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