A prime location to see some of the most magnificent sculptures and architecture in Buenos Aires Argentina, can be found at the illustrious La Recoleta Cemetery.
Most cemeteries are thought of as sad or dark places to visit. However, Recoleta Cemetery, sometimes known as “The City of the Dead” will most certainly have you thinking differently. The 5.6-hectare cemetery that houses more than 6,000 remarkable and superbly crafted vaults, tombs, and mausoleums, quietly resides on a knoll within a well-heeled area of the city.
Franciscan Monks arrived in 1732 and settled on what they believed to be holy ground. A church, convent and gardens alongside a small cemetery were soon constructed. This sect, however, was ultimately disbanded and the burial ground, including the garden area, then became the city’s first public cemetery, located on the outskirts of Buenos Aires back in 1822. Conversely, in today’s market, this cemetery now occupies some of the most expensive real estate in the city.
More than one million tourists annually stroll for hours among some of the most exquisitely carved statues and grandiose family vaults and crypts here at Recoleta Cemetery. Frequent visitors, artists, art lovers, and locals alike, wander the neatly and evenly laid aged brick labyrinth of streets and lanes. It would not be out of the norm to see someone sitting in a shaded corner with a sketch pad. There is no doubt that any artists’ mind would flourish here among such flawless examples of creative expression.
Lofty marble busts gaze down at you enigmatically, weathered and discoloured figures safeguard elaborate mausoleums, sentinels stand at attention, statues with Mona Lisa smiles stare at you, and perfect angels look on with expressions of serenity. Sadly, there are a few that show their age and neglect in dust and disrepair.
The superior quality and craftmanship is evident as you admire the outstanding and delicately detailed life-sized sculpted statues. Tombs that look more like elaborate Roman temples will definitely catch your eye as you stroll along, as will the towering mausoleums, intricately crafted and grandiose family vaults and crypts. Many of these burial sculptures are considered to be among the finest collections of Baroque, Neo-Gothic, Art Deco and Art Nouveau found anywhere in the world.
Some of the older and more elaborate tombs are constructed with imported French or Italian material. The high social standing of the departed becomes evident by the imposing size and complexity of the mausoleums and crypts. Photos, flowers, and other small tokens left in front of many of these tombs are like clues that raise the question of who might be buried there. Ninety of these tombs are listed as historical monuments, and as such are maintained by the government, while the rest are the responsibility of the families of the deceased.
This cemetery reads like a registry of some of Argentina’s most notable residents. People from around the world come here to pay their respect to world-renowned persons buried within these stone walls. Twenty-six presidents, military commanders, heroes, Nobel Prize winners, famous poets, writers, musicians, actors, and some of the wealthiest entrepreneurs are buried here alongside Argentina’s most controversial, yet idolized First Lady, Evita (Eva) Peron.
Unquestionably, the most popular tomb with the highest number of visitors is that of Eva Peron, who died in 1952. Her vault will not be found under her name (Peron) but rather her maiden or family name, Duarte. It was not until 20 years after her death that her body was finally interred in the Duarte family mausoleum. There, she lies in a heavily fortified crypt five metres below the ground to ensure her remains are protected and not disturbed.
Of course, every cemetery has a story to tell and this one has several that range from bizarre to tragic, about some of its most elite residents, as well as some not so famous ones. One of the more peculiar stories told belongs to that of a very wealthy businessman who was upset with his wife because he felt she spent money frivolously. She began to accumulate debt all around town so, he publicly announced he would not be responsible for her debts. This caused her a great deal of public humiliation. An argument ensued which continued until the time of their deaths. Outliving her husband, the woman insisted that rather than have her statue erected side-by-side with his, she demanded they face in opposite directions. They now sit back-to-back on opposing sides, just as they were in life.
A more bizarre tale is that of David Alleno, a man who worked hard for 30 years as a grave digger in this cemetery. With great prestige attached to being buried in this cemetery, he diligently saved his money to buy his own plot, then hired an architect and commissioned a vault and statue of himself. The story goes that very soon after the project was complete, he went home and committed suicide. It is said that you can still hear the jangling of his keys at night as his ghost patrols the paths and lanes of the cemetery.
One of the more poignant stories told is of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak. She died along with her husband in a skiing accident as a result of an avalanche, while on her honeymoon in Austria. Her parents were so overcome with grief from their loss, they recreated Liliana’s bedroom inside her tomb. At the entrance stands a statue of her in her wedding dress, impeccably detailed right down to the embroidered lace on the dress and wedding rings on her finger. Her beloved and faithful dog sits at her feet, who as the story goes, died on the same day as Liliana.
Dr. Toribio de Ayerza, a physician who trained in Madrid and Paris, arrived in Argentina in 1845 and was instrumental in treating children with diphtheria. He later went on to become a co-founder of the Red Cross in 1880. His bust sits atop his monument. A winged and half-robed, curly haired nymph leans against a staff entwined with flowers just below him, head bowed as if observing the mother sitting with her children at the base. Etched on the mother’s face you can see an expression of immense love as she watches her baby nuzzle closely while breastfeeding. The placement of the hand of the suckling baby on the mothers’ breast, and the relaxed positioning of the infants’ body are so realistic, you might think you are looking through a window and seeing this in real time. The mother’s free arm is wrapped around her impish-looking elder child, as he leans rather complacently into her side. Her fingers are intertwined with his as he looks on. You can feel the mother’s love for her children as you admire this tomb.
There are many powerful and thought-provoking expressions such as these portrayed in the sculpted figurines, and white marble statues of winged angels and cherubs found here at La Recoleta. It’s almost impossible not to be deeply touched by the sentiments invoked, while walking amongst some of the world’s finest, most elaborate and artfully crafted tombs, crypts and monuments.
People visit this cemetery for several different reasons. Families come to visit loved ones who have passed on, while others come simply for a peaceful respite from the bustling streets of Buenos Aires. Whatever your reason, you will leave with an unexpected reverence for and appreciation of the fabulous pieces of artwork you would normally expect to see only in a museum or gallery.
The best way to see La Recoleta would be to hire a local guide to accompany you through the cemetery. Your guide will steer you toward many of the most impressive and/or important tombs. You will hear the history and stories of some of the most memorable and intriguing residents of this cemetery.
You are free to wander as you please among the grand structures. There are free maps available at the entrance, but it would be wise to arrive early as they sometimes run out. Without a map, it would be difficult to navigate the avenues and lanes on your own, if you are looking for specific tombs of the more celebrated residents.
Linda A. Blair is a freelance travel writer and photographer.
IF YOU GO:
La Recoleta Cemetery location: Junín 1760, Buenos Aires. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tours are offered in both English and Spanish.
Every taxi driver knows where this cemetery is located. Yellow and black taxis are metered so it’s best to flag down one of these. There is no guarantee, however, that they will speak English, so be sure to have the name and address written down.
La Recoleta Cemetery is one of the scheduled stops on the “Hop-on-Hop off” buses.
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