I’ll admit it. When I thought about Greece, I imagined Santorini, Mykonos and Corfu; beautiful islands framed in turquoise waters. But when I researched vacations with Exodus Travels, I realized the mainland has a lot to offer and decided on “Highlights of Ancient Greece.” I love history and exploring communities long abandoned. It was a perfect fit.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
Let me introduce you to three fascinating lesser-known locations I visited where the crowds are thin, but the history is rich and fascinating: Epidavros, Messene and Pylos.
EPIDAVROS (OR EPIDAURUS)
Epidaurus was the most celebrated healing centre of the classical world dating to the 6th century BC. It was a place where the sick and infirmed went with the hope of being cured. In mythology, the site is said to be the birthplace of Apollos’s son Asclepius, the healer.
To find the right cure for their ailments, visitors spent a night in a sleeping hall. In their dreams, Asclepius would advise them what they had to do to regain their health and vitality.
Our guide explains that within the sanctuary there was a guest house with 160 guestrooms. There are also mineral springs in the vicinity, which may have been used in healing.
photo by Marilyn Jones
Although the healing centre isn’t well visited, the ancient theater is. Constructed in the late 4th century BC, it was used to host religious ceremonial events in honour of Asclepius. Famous for its symmetry and the incredible acoustics, it continues to be used during the summer months to host ancient Greek drama performances.
MESSENE
When we start our tour, the site seems small. The fact is it is one of the country’s largest and best-preserved archaeological sites.
Built in the 4th century BC on the ruins of an older city, Messene came into prominence after the defeat of the Spartans by Athens and the Boeotian League. The city was created for the descendants of exiled Messenians as a city-state independent of Sparta. A short time later, the Romans arrived and took over after the Battle of Chaeronea.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
To give you an idea of the site’s size, the wall that surrounded the city was nine kilometres long. It was nine metres high and fortified by 30 square or horseshoe-shaped guard towers.
We walk to the promenade. It is apparent by the row of columns how it once looked. When the Romans arrived, they put a bath in the middle using existing material. Just across the way is a theatre; an intimate setting for ancient plays and other performances. We continue our exploration to the council chamber and marketplace.
The view of the site is deceiving. As we walk, it becomes clear there is a lot more to see. The highlight came last as we neared the stadium. Its size and incredible condition are awe inspiring. In the spirit, several people run around its circumference and go down to the stadium floor. Here, gladiators fought, and wrestling competitions were held.
As we make our way back to the van, I marvel that this extraordinary site gets so little attention; it is a gem.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
PYLOS
Pylos is a pleasant little seaside village in southern Greece. We arrive in the evening just in time to see the sun set. I drop my luggage at the hotel and immediately take a walk along the waterfront. Small, intimate restaurants and a handful of shops with friendly employees greet visitors with warm smiles and gracious service.
The following day, we visit “New Castle” high above the town.
The Ottomans ruled from 1498-1685 and 1715-1821, and built the New Castle beginning in 1571. It was completed the following year.
We first visit the church, which was originally a mosque. Except for its architectural design, there are no signs it was ever used for this purpose. From the front of the church, we are offered a spectacular view of the Bay of Pylos. New Castle is in the southern entrance of the bay and the 13th century Old Castle, built by the Crusaders, guards the northern entrance.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
Next to the church is a small but impressive museum. The sign says Traveling in the Deep: Exploring Human Traces in the Peloponnese Seas.
The interior looks like a ship’s hull. There is a huge map of the Peloponnese on the floor helping us locate the seven shipwrecks dating from prehistoric to modern times, where the displayed statues, vessels and personal items were found.
Our tour continues to the castle’s fortified citadel where more recovered items, diving equipment, photographs and explanations are showcased in seven cells facing the centre of the grand structure.
Our last stop is another small and impressive museum with items dating from Middle Paleolithic Period (100,000 to 35,000 BC) to Modern Period (1830 to the present).
These sites are just the tip of the iceberg. We also visit Athens, Corinth, Nafplio, Mycenae, Palamidi, Mystras, Delphi and Meteora during our nine-day tour.
Greece is a labyrinth of remarkable and interesting history and unparalleled beauty. As much as the islands are inviting, there’s so much more to discover in Greece.
IF YOU GO:
Refresh yourself on Greek mythology and read about the locations you are going to visit. Guides can only scratch the surface of this rich and interesting history, and it gets confusing when you consider the parallel timelines of real men and women and those of mythology.
Exodus Travels offers small group travel around the world. For more information, visit: www.exodustravels.com
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