What better place to initiate a tour of the Baltic region than in Lübeck, Germany, the founder and main base of the Hanseatic League and where a delectable confection was created.
When a confederation of German merchants trading in the west joined the association trading in the Baltic in 1280, it established the Hanseatic League. Founded in 1143, Lübeck is home to five great Gothic-style churches with their seven superb spires. Combined with the attractive alleys, courtyards, shops and residences in the old city centre makes for a charming local atmosphere. It is no wonder Lübeck, an island city surrounded by two rivers, translates into “Lovely One.”
As we strolled through the historic streets, I could imagine the medieval merchants mingling in this town, which grew to become a commercial and political hub, second only to Cologne as a trading centre. The archaic alleyways, built during the 14th to 16th centuries, were not even wide enough for horse-drawn carriages. “There was a rule to build the passageways as wide and high as a coffin,” said Doris Schütz of Lübeck Tourism Public Relations. Since they were inhabited in the Middle-Ages, the curse of the plague seemed to dictate this regulation. Today, of the more than 180 passageways that existed at the end of the 17th century, only half remain, most of which continue to be inhabited.
Almost 25 per cent of the city was destroyed during a nighttime raid by the British on March 29, 1942. However, none of the churches were totally demolished, possibly due to the good karma generated by the city council, who denied Adolf Hitler the right to make a campaign speech in town during his election tour (1932), a decade earlier. Instead, Hitler espoused his rhetoric in a small town outside of the city. Remnants of the church bell are fenced in at St. Mary’s in mute testament to that fateful night. Outside St. Mary’s church is a bronze figure of a devil on the “devils’ stone.”
Evidently, when the first stones were laid, the devil believed a wine bar would be constructed. He liked the idea and assisted the workers to expedite the building process. However, when he discovered that it was to be a church, he attempted to heave a boulder at it. A fellow dissuaded him, saying there would be a wine bar in the neighbourhood. This pleased the devil and he dropped the boulder beside the wall where it lies today. One can still see the devil’s claws on the stone.
We decided, respectfully, that we should satiate my devilish curiosity and visit a neighbourhood wine bar. Since one does not want to vex the devil, we descended into the Rats Keller (Town Cellar). This is in the Rathaus (Town Hall) on the Markt Platz (Market Square), where one can enjoy a regional meal followed by a local dessert. What should it be? Lübecker Rote Grütze (red fruit pudding with whipped cream or vanilla sauce) or Lübecker Marzipan Apfelstrudel (layered apple strudel with marzipan), I vied for the latter.
After all, who am I to disrupt tradition since the first mention of marzipan in Lübeck dates to 1530. Evidently, a famine in 1407 resulted in a lack of available grain and, consequently, bakers were instructed to make bread out of almond stocks stored in granaries. Actually, “marci panis” or St. Mark’s bread is derived from a Middle-Eastern word with its roots in Asia, where there were regions for growing almond trees.
During the 15th century, sugar was a relative rarity, available only at exorbitant prices, until sugar cane plantations emerged following the discovery of America. Supplies of sugar destined for Europe from the New World began to increase in quantity. It was not until the beginning of the 19th century, when beet sugar was obtained, that it became possible to produce marzipan on a larger and more affordable scale.
Originally regarded as “fortified bread,” it eventually found its way to the table of royalty as a “fruit” on banquet tables. The palatably pliable product found a creative medium for imaginative minds contributing to festive settings. Even the Russian Czar ordered consignments of life-sized geese, which he would send to privileged court officials.
Coincidentally and conveniently, across from the Rats Keller is the marzipan café and museum, Café Niederegger. It was opened in 1806 by Johann Niederegger and, by 1825, his confectionery had achieved prominence with his high standard of marzipan over the seven other establishments operating in Lübeck during this time. Currently, as the centre of marzipan production, 25 tonnes of choice marzipan is exported annually to 32 different countries, yet the greatest quantities are still consumed in Germany.
The Hanseatic League primarily traded in copper, timber, herring, grains and furs. Marzipan remained a seasonal product confined solely to Christmas, until the outbreak of World War I. In fact, not until 1950 did marzipan secure a permanent place in the confectionery market with regularly manufactured specialties.
I decided to mingle with the marzipan merchants and enjoy the almond-based treat with a tasty history. Their innumerable incarnations included vegetables (onions, carrots, potatoes, etc.) and fruit (lemons, bananas, pears, etc.), which are morphed and replicated to perfection. The shop keeper told us “we have the sweetest onions in the country,” holding up the applicable vegetation personification.
The parlour on the upper floor inside Café Niederegger was installed to inform about the history of marzipan. Life-sized figures are exhibited as are framed displays depicting the history and production of marzipan while a local artisan applies decorative elements to marzipan items. In the 1800s, a confectioner’s apprenticeship lasted a full six years, a term regarded as necessary to master all the various sugar-icing and marzipan-modelling techniques.
Featured on the classical round tarts and on the circular package labels is the winning design of the Holstentor (city gate). The landmark trademark is also illustrated on several stamps and German banknotes. This was the southern entrance (1478) to the city and part of the walled fortification. The Holsten gate hosts a museum on the city’s history and accommodates an exhibition displaying influences of Hanseatic trades on the city.
The beguiling Old Town (Altstadt) was declared a UNESCO cultural heritage site in 1987. En route to the 15th century structure, we noticed an interesting attraction snuggled down a cobblestone lane. It was the world-renowned Lübeck Museum of Theatre Puppets. Located on four floors, the collection displays everything from archaic and ornate to gaudy and grotesque puppets and marionettes from around the world. Many of these colourfully eclectic creatures are several centuries old.
Nearly 1,000 puppets are exhibited, and a designated area presents an old-time puppet show for the public. “I’m never alone here,” said the resident puppeteer. Making a sweeping hand gesture, he added “I am surrounded by friends from around the globe.” Maybe there is also a Muppet genealogy here. And I swear I glimpsed a Charlie McCarthy look-alike wink at me on the way out.
Lübeck’s anachronistic connection to a glorious past remains especially important in the 21st century. As with other cities, it was considered a “Free and Hanse City” and continues to exist as such today.
IF YOU GO:
Lübeck Tourism: www.luebeck-tourism.de
German Tourism: www.cometogermany.com
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