Halifax is a city of many contrasts. It’s a blend of the young and old and a place where modern skyscrapers rise in juxtaposition to their historical brick neighbours. During this visit to Nova Scotia’s capital, we also discover there are variables with its weather.
“They can get up to a hundred days of mist here a year,” my husband, Brent, reports, when reading about this metropolitan area’s stats. Fat droplets splash onto our windshield, and I’m thinking we’re in for more than just a drizzle. I look at the list of circled attractions on our tourist map – the Citadel, a 19th century British fort that poses proudly above the downtown core, the abundant blooms at the seven-hectare Public Gardens and the waterfront boardwalk, a popular pedestrian walkway where 19th century warehouses are now artist studios, seaside shops and trendy restaurants. They’re all on the top things-to-do list, but only if it’s dry.
“Fear not,” my trusty tour guide husband says, as if reading my mind. “There’s lots to do here when it rains. And besides, if anything can change in this city of contrasts, it’s the weather.”
After donning our slickers, here are just a few of the rainy-day attractions that get our two thumbs up.
THE MARITIME MUSEUM OF THE ATLANTIC
Although the boardwalk stroll may be nixed for right now, after veering into this waterfront exposition, we’re immediately immersed in Nova Scotia’s marine heritage. We ogle over the replicated vessels displayed in Days of Sail, read about the massive explosion that wiped out Halifax on December 6, 1917, and learn all about the Titanic. The permanent exhibit portrays everything from this “unsinkable” ship’s creation to its demise and explains the important role that Halifax played.
NOVA SCOTIA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
This depository attracts kids of all ages by uncovering the natural wonders from Nova Scotia’s land and sea. Fossils, mammals, birds and more. There are opportunities to gaze at glittering gold, gawk at a whale skeleton and zoom in on the culture and artifacts of the First Nations Mi’kmaq people. From the sights and sounds of Nova Scotia’s forest, to the moon and stars above, we discover it all – and without even putting up our umbrellas.
THE ART GALLERY OF NOVA SCOTIA
This magnet for art aficionados is the largest of its kind in Atlantic Canada. The two heritage buildings boast over 17,000 works of art and offer a collection that ranges in everything from sculptures and photographs to classical portraits and international paintings. Check out the charming paintings of renowned folk artist, Maud Lewis, a Nova Scotia favourite.
THE HALIFAX CENTRAL LIBRARY
If you want a good place to chill out, dry off or read a book, there’s no better stop than this flagship of libraries. Stairs and bridge-ways criss-cross over the grand atrium of this architectural marvel and the fifth-floor cantilevers over the entrance plaza to resemble a book.
As well as quiet reading nooks, auditoriums and community rooms, there are a few cafés to appease our hunger and java pangs. And if the rain stops, we could head to the rooftop terrace and soak in the downtown views. Today, we stay inside and cozy up with a good book.
COZY UP IN A CAFÉ
Here are three of our favourite must-tastes:
Rinaldo’s – We’ve sampled a lot of seafood chowders during our Nova Scotia stay, and this little Italian café gets the blue ribbon for theirs. The two brothers embrace the everything-from-scratch philosophy. Thin-crust pizzas, mouth-watering pastas, decadent desserts. Magnifico!
enVie – Eat well. Drink well. Live well. That’s the motto of this vegan kitchen and even though the menu is plant-based, it doesn’t disappoint our taste buds. I go for the spicy Pad Thai; Brent chooses the Cauliflower Steak. No dairy, no meat, all delicious!
Henry House – This British-style watering hole serves up some mighty fine pub grub. Pasties, steak pies, sticky toffee pudding surrounded by Old English charm, yet all in Halifax!
Just steps away is The Waverley Inn, and another reason for us to stay indoors. Since 1876, this Halifax landmark has been pampering guests with its heritage and luxury. And now it’s our turn. We arrive in time for afternoon tea and just as we’re about to chill-out in the parlour over a game of chess, the sun makes an appearance. “I guess we’d better get out that tourist map again,” says Brent. “This clearly is a city of many contrasts.”
IF YOU GO:
Where to Stay:
http://waverleyinn.com/
Where to Eat:
www.rinaldos.ca
www.enviehalifax.com
www.henryhouse.ca
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