Germany’s Christmas Markets 2019

Europe in December is something to behold. Having visited the Christmas markets in Germany a couple years ago, I was eager to return. My latest visit took me to Frankfurt, Nuremberg, Munich and Regensburg.

Frankfurt’s market is nestled in the old town, mere blocks from the commercial towers that mark it as the banking capital of Europe.  While Frankfurt is often bypassed by tourists who think it has no charm, this town has, in fact, plenty.  It’s a bustling place, and once clear of the slightly seedier streets around the train station, you’ll find lovely squares in which to savour the German hospitality.  Frankfurt’s market is unexpectedly small and homey. Everyone seems to know each other and the warm and cheery greeting you get makes you feel like a local. I had one of the best ham and cheese crepes. Seasoned with a sprinkling of herbs, it was sheer deliciousness. Match that with a hot mulled wine and a helping of potato pancakes coated in powdered sugar with a side of freshly cooked apples. Yum!

On to Nuremberg with it’s trademark pinky-size wieners – three tiny bratwurst in a fresh bun and a splash of mustard. I must have eaten one for almost every meal including breakfast. Nothing like the smell of sizzling sausage to draw the crowds. Nuremberg’s market is spread all the way down Kings Street, across the bridge into the heart of the old city where the Christmas market explodes into hundreds of stalls side by side.  This year brought a couple days of soft snow – giving it a picture-book quality. Together with shops lining the streets, Nuremberg’s old town is a mecca for the shopper. If you just want to stroll, there’s miles of streets, each one more delightful than the last. This is a place you can stay for days and not see it all.  If you’re a museum lover, it has several including Germany’s National Museum — all within easy walking distance, or a short tram ride, whichever you prefer. Of course, many come to Nuremberg to learn more about its history relating to the Hitler era. A very informational museum details how Hitler rose to power while not far away one can visit the infamous site where Allied countries brought Nazi war criminals to trial after WWII. Despite its dark history, Nuremberg is still a place that millions of people visit for its Christmas pageantry.

An hour by train (from Nuremberg) brings you to the UNESCO sanctioned city of Regensburg.  This Christmas market is spread between 3 or 4 locations, each with a different flavour. With limited time, I centered my time around the old town city hall area, and a market featuring local handcrafted products. From glass to leather, jewellery and wooden bowls – it showcased the talents and skills of the Regensburg artisans. Regensburg’s old city boasts the largest number of Middle Ages structures in Germany. Situated on the Danube, Regensburg was the northernmost merchant capital during the Roman empire and has preserved many of the original buildings.  While many towns were wealthy enough to tear down their old structures and rebuild, Regensburg lost so much of its economic base when the Romans left that the city fathers could not afford to rebuild, thus preserving medieval buildings that would otherwise have fallen to the wrecking ball. The old town has cobblestone streets winding every which way. Filled with shops and local artisans, it’s a delightful way to spend a day, whether at Christmas or any other season.

My final stop in Munich took me into the heart of one of Germany’s most cosmopolitan cities. It’s a mixture of old and modern, side by side. Stalls stream from outside the train station down wide pedestrian boulevards, opening into roomy squares where you find themed products. One area might feature creches, while another might be mostly tree ornaments. Sprinkled throughout are the requisite food stations, featuring the ubiquitous gluhwein, paired with heaping platters of spaetzle, foot long bratwursts, and Christmas dessert favorites like Baumkuchen, Lebkuchen cookies, Dampfnudel (sweet rolls), Marzipan,  Pfeffernuss (pepper cookies), and the fruit-filled Stollen.

Germany’s markets are the epitome of social interaction.  Here you will find people from all ages, at all hours of the day and night, happily engaged in celebrating the season. This is where everything we love about the Christmas season converges, in a very happy way.

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