Germany’s Christmas Markets

From food and wine, to history, culture and tradition – this versatile and resilient country calls you back over and over to savour its many offerings. Summer or winter, any season in Germany will bring adventure your way.  But none bring out the inner child like Germany’s Christmas Markets.

In villages and cities, Christkindl markets begin popping up at the end of November and stay in place right through to mid December. This is more than a place to sample foods, drink hot beverages and buy Christmas decorations. For locals, this is where young and old mingle, where they greet old friends, and share with newcomers the trademark hospitality that brings the world to Germany’s doorstep every Christmas season.

My first visit to Germany in December brought the spirit of Christmas home in ways that have me already making plans to return. The hand-made toys, decorations and household items take you back to a simpler time when the pace was slower, the friends were closer and you had time to sample the sights and sounds of the season. As you stroll the markets, listen to the carollers, and enjoy the tasty foods and drinks, there’s just no other place to be on earth at this magical time of year.  Friends and neighbours stroll arm in arm, families with their children in strollers or held tight by the hand make their way from stall to stall, savouring the atmosphere as much as each other’s company.

My trip included the iconic Christmas markets of Munich, Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Nuremberg. Each centre produces its own seasonal flavour.

In Munich the market sprawls for blocks and blocks, giving shoppers an alternative experience to the department stores only steps away. Enjoy the choirs performing from the balcony of City Hall in the centre square as you sip gluhwein and gnaw on your warm pretzel.  Strap on a pair of skates at the central outdoor ice rink.

Temperatures at this time of year are usually moderate. It does snow on occasion, but most days during my trip were clear or overcast with the occasional drizzle of rain.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of the most picturesque villages, and its tiny cobbled streets and watchmen walls surrounding the old town make this market a must see.  Shopkeepers and stalls outdo themselves to make this one of the most unique shopping experiences of your trip. This is where you will want to try the Rothenburger Schneeballen or snowball cake – a shortcrust pastry rolled in a ball and decorated with icing sugar.

Nuremberg is the starting point for many Christmas river cruises that meander through Germany and on into Austria, calling in at a number of ports where the markets flourish from the river trade.  By itself, Nuremberg is a delightful market in the old city where canals, bridges, walls and castles bring a special ambience to the occasion.  Nightly choirs and concerts, with well known carols sung in English and German entertain crowds of young and old alike.

The wienerschnitzel beckons, but if you’re in Nuremberg, you must try the tiny plump Nuremberg sausages. Spiced with marjoram, these little pork morsels are the perfect complement to a salted pretzel and sauerkraut. The proud citizens of Nuremberg have declared the Nuremberg sausage protected under the power of European laws. To be a “true” Nuremberg sausage, it must be produced in Nuremberg.  To do it up in true Nuremberg fashion, you must try their “three in a bun” variation, boiled or roasted over an open flame.

And don’t forget the gluhwein, the staple drink at every Christmas market. This hot savoury beverage warms you to your toes – a combination of varied spices, wines and citrus fruits create taste combinations out of this world. I discovered it’s not just wine on tap – crafty entrepreneurs now offer other liqueurs and spirits, warmed and spiced to send the cold packing and your spirits sailing. Add that to the jocularity of the crowds, the scent of evergreen and it’s just a supreme way to wile away an evening in good company and great ambience.

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