Stern line cast, the ferry begins its journey eastward across Kootenay Lake toward the towering Purcell Mountains. In 35 minutes – via the longest free ferry ride in the world – we will be climbing the densely forested hills that lie before us into the small artists’ community of Crawford Bay. In the meantime, all is awash in the blue and brilliance of beautiful BC on a perfect day in May.
Etched into the forest, the village of Crawford Bay slowly unfolds along Highway 3A. Taking centre stage is a string of working artisan studios, something that for over 30 years has been at the heart of this community.
“I remember growing up here,” one of the artisans tells me, “and everything was about making stuff and selling it. Being creative was the norm.”
Efforts to build and sustain that rural creative culture led to the forming of the collective: The Artisans of Crawford Bay. Now, on an average summer’s day, hundreds of touring motorists pass through the community to marvel at woodcarvers, weavers, potters, jewellers and blacksmiths at work, and to pick out their favourite made-in-BC handcrafted item. Luckily, I was able to catch a few of the artisans before the start of the high season, allowing me to soak in each of their exquisitely imagined and created worlds.
NORTH WOVEN BROOMS
Picture a parking stall at a witches’ sabbath or a wizards’ convention; a gaggle of slender hand-woven round brooms, their stalks yellowed with age, their handles a wild assortment of twisted branches, all snug and sunlit within the shelter of a well-weathered barn.
Imagine this stall in the real world and you’ve got the North Woven Broom. Today, owner Luke Lewis and assistant, Willow Johnston, are at their winders, building round trimmed and shaker flat brooms. Using broomcorn imported from Mexico, after winding the broom, they weave the ends to form their signature handle and flat-stitch them with a broom makers vise or flat-stitcher. The process speaks of long-ago practices.
“The woman who started this business had picked up these broom making techniques from someone who had lived in a Shaker village in New England,” says Luke. “Our brooms have evolved in style since then and are unique to Canada.” The Granville Island Broom Co. in Vancouver is operated by Luke’s cousins.
So unique that they have become a media favourite and have been featured in several promotions and productions. Publishers Raincoast Books enlisted North Woven Brooms in the launching of the Harry Potter books in Canada, and the brooms are still an integral part of the Harry Potter Theme Park in Universal Studios Florida.
BAREFOOT HANDWEAVING
It’s about colour. Natural fibres drenched in vibrant blues and oranges and fuchsias, woven – barefoot – into pieces of extraordinary beauty. Shawls, scarves, shrugs, wraps, and table runners drape every inch of weaver Janet Wallace’s straw bale studio. A wall collage of her husband’s colourful, expressionist paintings complete the rich, polychromatic experience of walking into Barefoot Handweaving.
After exploring the possibilities of spinning and tapestry making, a chance inheriting of a Gertrude loom (named after its Swedish designer) led Janet into the world of weaving. Today, experimentation with different fibres – bamboo, hemp and chenille (in addition to traditional cotton, linen, wool and silk) – and computer-assisted designs continue to fuel Janet’s passion and development as a master weaver.
As she demonstrates the intricate processes of weaving on the treadle loom, her feet flying with planned precision to adjust the frames accordingly, she shares some of the gallery’s storied history.
“I have had people from all around the world in my gallery, speaking Welsh, Gaelic, Swahili – you name it!” says Janet. “I remember a couple from Afghanistan telling me that their daughters would weave side by side in order to manage the width of the loom.”
While international visitors may not be a feature of this summer’s tourist traffic, there is no doubt Barefoot Handweaving will be on many motorists’ radar this summer as they tour the artisan-rich Kootenays.
DOG PATCH GALLERY
In characteristic Crawford Bay style, the door to Dog Patch Pottery is flung open, giving the shop a fresh, well-ventilated summer feel. Brimming with ceramic mugs, plates, bowls, and other artisan wares such as paintings and cards, my eyes are drawn to the glint of gold fused into dark, dusty green glazed bowls with intricate geometric patterns.
“I call those my ‘Henna-design line,’” potter and owner Leia Belcourt calls from her studio desk at the back of her gallery. Today she is working on one of her pieces in her ‘Geo line,’ painting tagine bowls and dishes with art-deco-like patterns.
“My dad – a period-style woodworker – probably influenced my style and set me on this road. I attended night-school at the Kootenay School of the Arts while my daughter was young, and even though pottery was frustratingly difficult at first, I was determined to learn how to do it!”
Now, 21 years in the business, I think you’ll agree Leia has found that sweet spot on the potter’s wheel!
FIREWORKS COPPER & GLASS
Glass enamel on copper makes a most alluring form of jewelry, something the Myceneans, one of the first groups to use this technique, knew back in 13th century BC. For Helene Carter, trading clothing fashion design to develop her copper enamel jewelry business over the past 15 years, the allure is in the creative aspect of her craft, and the joy she gets from producing something that someone loves.
Her studio work desk piled high with materials – sheets of copper, jars of crushed glass (in no less than 140 colours!), cutting tools, glass rods, brushes – Helene graciously gives me a crash tutorial in copper enameling. She cuts and sands the copper and then decorates the pieces with crushed glass that, when fired in a kiln to 900 degrees, can be shaped in its molten form. Once cooled, another layer of enamel can be applied and fired to reach the desired effect.
“I particularly like images related to the natural world – leaves, trees, landscapes,” says Helene. “I also just enjoy playing around with elements of abstract design – colour, line, blend – and how they can coalesce into shapes and sheens that surprise you.”
With her thorough understanding of her art and fierce dedication to it, I’m sure you’ll emerge from a visit to Helene’s studio and gallery, Forge & Furnace, which she shares with iron makers Kootenay Forge, a quality memento of the BC Kootenays.
GALA JEWELRY
Galadriel Rael’s tiny, tastefully curated gallery is as bijoux as her jewellery. Silver jewellery and silk clothing peering from rustic, wooden display shelves. One exhibit features gems and stones native to the area.
“I started the business because of my passion for rocks!” Galadriel enthuses. “I was a true rock nerd as a kid, ‘panning’ for rocks along the shores of Kootenay Lake, looking for the most interesting pieces of mica and slate.”
One gemstone she does import – from Alberta – is called ammolite.
“You can’t find ammolite here. In fact, it is found in only one place in the world, along the St. Mary’s River near Lethbridge, Alberta. It is essentially the shell of a prehistoric mullosk. When it fossilized it created these gorgeous iridescent colours.”
Indeed, beautiful and unique. For travellers hoping to take a bit of BC or Alberta geology home with them, this is the place!
FLICKERING GODDESS
The Flickering Goddess is not a shop, it’s an experience. Playful stepping stones and mushroom and ladybug garden decorations usher you into a fairy’s grotto, sparkling with enchanting accessories; soaps, candles, beads, gems, trinkets, lamps and wands. The store’s ebullience can be traced to its owner, bursting with life Lorrie Rhead. When not tending her chickens or serving at the local tea house, she is happily tending to the whimsies of her customers.
Central to Lorrie’s collection are her homemade soaps and candles; beeswax, jojoba and coconut milk blends in a wide variety of molds and designs. Recently she has expanded her cosmetic line to include organic room fresheners, personal deodorants, lip balms, shampoos and hand sanitizers. As well, she caters to the kid – in all of us.
“Kids love to visit my shop when they come to Crawford Bay,” Lorrie beams. “When the campground across the street is open, I can’t keep enough juggling sticks and craft kits in stock!”
To add to the whimsy, just look for the pink Cadillac in her driveway as you pass through Crawford Bay!
MERV THE WOODCARVER
Mervin Robertson proudly unveils the life-size bear he has carved that will soon be on its way to the world-class Kokanee Springs Golf Resort nearby.
“I think they’re going to put it on the third tee, to keep golfers on their toes!” says Merv, smiling.
Bears are a signature piece of his – ‘everyone wants one’ he tells me – and they peer from every corner of his property. Inside his home, large, elegant figures, titled Mythconception and Human Rights, are testaments to Merv’s artistry. Coming to the craft with a background in oil painting and log home building, Merv does as much woodcarving as he can with his chainsaw, finishing with hand tools.
Open to doing custom work, call ahead to book a visit.
Other artisans and eateries you will find in Crawford Bay are:
Kootenay Forge
– specializes in hand-forged home accessories (candle holders, door and cabinet hardware, hooks and racks, fireplace accessories). A workshop area adjacent to the shop allows visitors to watch smithies at work.
NorseArts
– a focus on Viking art traditions; wooden plaques, totems, bowls, shields, engraved and painted with themes from Viking mythologies.
Moonrakings Clay Art
- fanciful clay art, pottery and painting.
Black Salt Café
- family run bistro, known for its culinary art, sustainably sourced ingredients, and vegan/veggie-friendly options, served in garden patio alongside its indoor gallery space.
The Hub Pub and Eatery
– offering modern pub fare and a wide variety of refreshments, including local and import beer and creative cocktails served on a lovely patio and outdoor seating area.
IF YOU GO:
The artisans of Crawford Bay work year-round in their studios. Their shops are open to the public between May and October. Call ahead to confirm availability or if interested in custom ordering.
Crawford Bay lies on the eastern shores of Kootenay Lake, 50 kms east of Nelson and 75 kms north of Creston. Access from the west is via the Kootenay Lake Ferry, with 15 daily runs in the summer.
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