A scenic BC ferry cruise and little roadtrip begin a Vancouver Island getaway. Crossing Georgia Strait to Duke Point, we wind our way along the Island Highway above Nanaimo and Nanoose Bay to Parksville.
Our condo at Sunrise Ridge Resort proves spacious and comfortable; its well-equipped kitchen seems perfect for prepping casual meals to enjoy on the sundeck. And eager to look at Craig Bay, a wooded trail leads us down through the property to its vast beach.
Our first day of discovery kicks off in Coombs, 10 kilometres away. Old Country Market dominates this quirky village. Nicknamed “Goats on the Roof,” Billy goats, nannies and kids graze on its grassy rooftop. Inside, shelves overflow with international foods and eclectic gifts, including voodoo dolls. Planning meals, we purchase artisan breads, local cheeses, organic eggs, deli salads and produce at an outside stand.
Small shops line a courtyard filled with stone sculptures of lions, eagles, monkeys, giraffes, ducks and dogs driving convertibles. Elegant marble Chinese goddesses border the amusing menagerie. Family-owned Cuckoo’s Trattoria and Pizzeria is just a stroll away. A friendly waitress escorts us through its converted farmhouse to a shady table on the patio. Sipping herbed Italian lemonades, we study the menu of enticing traditional dishes. Our thin-crust pizzas taste scrumptious!
At nearby Butterfly World, we commune with winged beauties from South America and Asia. Elegant swallowtails swoop above. Flittering and fluttering, lovely lepidopterans sometimes land on platters of sliced fruit – and sometimes on us! Perched on shrubs, blue morphos sip sweet floral nectars.
Circling tropical trees and plants, we come to the Emerging Area’s chrysalis collection. Struggling out of cocoons, metamorphosed adults spread their delicate new wings. Noting our interest, a docent shows us tiny butterfly eggs dotting a leaf’s underside. She smiles, “They’ll soon hatch into orange caterpillars.”
Adjacent terrariums house extraordinary reptiles: a handsome African spurred tortoise, striped red bearded dragon and speckled albino gecko. One connecting greenhouse displays wonderful hybrid orchids. In another, exotic plants surround a large pond, home to golden Koi.
Up the highway, Cathedral Grove’s ancient Douglas firs warrant a visit. At MacMillan Provincial Park, a crosscut slab’s growth lines reveal their age to be over 800-years. A charred line indicates survival of a forest fire 350-years ago.
Boardwalks encircle these towering trees and seedlings flourishing on fallen trees. A placard extolls these “nurse” logs’ importance. Other signage recounts how MacMillan logging company preserved this magnificent ecosystem.
Stopping at Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, a two-kilometre trail loops us around its canyon. Thick mosses and lichens carpet the forested bluffs. Descending onto a platform above Qualicum River, we sight spectacular Upper Falls. “Listen to that roar,” remarks a patrolling ranger. “The water volume’s 30 per cent higher than usual due to spring runoff.” On a wooden bridge, we observe the full plunge of the sparkling falls.
Crossing the river, our trail traces the canyon’s opposite rim. On a second bridge, we admire cascading Lower Falls. Up a steep stairway, we re-encounter the ranger. This time, he’s driving an electric cart helping less-mobile visitors access the park’s natural wonders. Unwinding later at our digs, we dine alfresco on poached eggs and asparagus on toast.
Fruit and yogurt parfaits fuel the next morning’s sunny adventure. Mounting our bicycles at the resort, we pedal to Rathtrevor Beach Park. The entrance road descends under a canopy of dense evergreens to its picture-postcard beach. Families tote umbrellas, chairs and pails onto low-tide expanses of sand. Views of the renowned two-kilometre shoreline continue along a hard-packed trail. As geese honk and seagulls plaintively call, we weave past tall grasses, split-rail fencing, wild roses, snowberries and bleached driftwood.
Exiting through the campground, our route continues into a quiet neighbourhood, veering west along Englishman River. Pausing at a pull-off, we contemplate its lush delta and distant Mount Arrowsmith. The old Island highway takes us back to the resort, where refreshing swims and hot tub soaks reward our endeavour.
That afternoon in Qualicum Beach, we explore Milner Gardens and Woodland. Its pathway meanders peacefully through mixed forest to a high fence. A wooden-gate’s notice reminds us to shut out deer, notorious munchers of botanical treasures. Inside, Artist Trail reveals student artwork. Their delightful metal sculptures include abstract bluebirds dangling from branches; a big-eyed owl and koala bear clinging to tree trunks, and silver cello resting amid sword ferns.
Passing a pool of water lilies, we relax on a patio, once a tennis court. Fairy gardens adorn ceramic pots beside the snack shack. One conjures a wee playground with porcelain pixies on tiny slides and swings.
Ahead, massive heritage rhododendrons bloom in glorious reds, pinks, yellows and lavender. Lofty red cedars line an oceanside bluff providing views of its shingle beach, Georgia Strait and distant Coastal Mountains. A telescope and illustrated panel help us identify snowcapped peaks as far away as Vancouver’s Lions.
Milner House stands across grand lawns. A storyboard highlights how the Milners developed this four-hectare estate into their private retreat, often planting specimens found during extensive business travels. It became a royal haven when Veronica hosted cousins Diana and Prince Charles in 1986. During the following year, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip visited! Nowadays, its elegant Camellia Tea Room serves High Tea. Evolving into a unique public garden, today’s nursery plant sale and other special events regularly occur. Exiting the west gate, another trail leads us over a gurgling creek dotted with pungent yellow skunk cabbage. Lacy bushes screen a sneaky doe nibbling leaves.
Back in Parksville, we visit the Community Park. At the skateboard centre, wheeled tricksters entertain us rolling down concrete ramps, boldly perfecting their kick-turns and flips. Above, monstrous black octopus and red birdie kites drift and dip. Crossing expansive lawns, we amble along an oceanside trail to the annual sand sculpture event site. Among this year’s themed entries, we recall “Wild Thing” winning top prize by caricaturing a starry-haired Jimmy Hendrix. Here, the trail morphs into a long, wide boardwalk. As other folks fan out onto the enormous beach, we stroll the promenade to its end, resting in the shade of an open pavilion.
At the town’s Paradise Mini Golf and Fun Park, we play a round of ball whacking. Of two 18-hole courses, Turf ‘n’ Surf makes an apt challenge, leaving Treasure Island for pirate-loving youngsters. Unlike “real” players on regular courses, mini-golfers like us need only putters, a knack for bank shots – and sense of humour regarding odd ricochets! As duffers, our scores reflect merry antics and above par fun.
Our last outing investigates Morningstar Farm, a 36-hectare working dairy farm boasting family activities. In airy barns, we find cuddly bunnies, pink piglets, weeks-old calves and prize-winning horses. A Moo-seum exhibits early milking machinery and farm photos reflecting the owner’s family history. And outside, Canada’s first dairy dispenser offers fresh milk “on tap.”
Morningstar Farm also encompasses Little Qualicum Cheeseworks and MooBerry Winery. In the Farmgate Store, we sample delicious artisan cheeses and award-winning wines. Blackberry wine and Rathtrevor cheddar become take-home favourites.
Homeward bound in the ferry’s café, panoramas of freighters and small Gulf Islands slide past our window. Pondering our three jam-packed days, we agree: Parksville must be one of BC’s best holiday destinations!
IF YOU GO:
- BC Ferries: www.bcferries.com
- Sunrise Ridge Waterfront Resort www.reservations.com/SunriseRidge
- Cuckoo’s Trattoria and Pizzeria cuckooincoombs@oldcountrymarket.com
- Milner Gardens & Woodland www.qualicumbeach.com/milner-gardens
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