An Exotic Meeting of East and West

Aphrodite, goddess of beauty and love, was born on Cyprus, according to Greek mythology. Favouring this Mediterranean island, she gave it graceful landscapes, tender climate, abundant sunshine and alluring beaches.

Greeks joined the prehistoric peoples of Cyprus 3,500 years ago, establishing roots that have remained strong during periods of various rulers – Persian, Roman, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian, Ottoman and British – each adding their cultural imprint in a myriad of ways.

The British took over in 1878, with Greek and Turkish cultures most prominent (known as Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots). Independence from Britain and the Republic of Cyprus was proclaimed August 16, 1960. But the new constitution was unsatisfactory to Turkish Cypriots and, in 1974, they took control of the north, forming the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. The border cuts across the old historic part of Nicosia (a.k.a. Lefkosia), making this the only divided capital city in the world.

Our roving begins on the Greek side with its pedestrian streets of engaging shops. At “Achilles Heel” amid messy surrounds, shoemaker Achilles’ octogenarian hands blur as he mends a purse with lightning speed. Nearing a sweet shop our taste buds shout for more traditional soutzoukos – almonds strung on a string then coated with layers of a grape juice/flour/sugar mix. The handcrafted jewelry is irresistible. A further walk takes us past ancient aqueducts and Venetian walls.

It is time for our Turkish-side venture. We walk through the buffer zone manned by UN peacekeepers and join the checkpoint cue with our passports to obtain visas.

Ottoman flare abounds with colourful shops stacked with clothing, souvenirs and foodstuffs. After browsing a bit, we sit in the sunshine in a small café sipping scalding, sweet, thick, flavourful Turkish coffee… what could be better?

“Which way to Selimiye Mosque?” I ask a local. His directions bring us to a beautiful edifice, formerly St. Sophia Cathedral. Beside the mosque is a stall where we purchase tickets for a Whirling Dervish performance at Mevlevi Tekke Musuem. This physically active meditation was developed in the early 1200s by mystic Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi.

In a darkened theatre, vocal incantations and music sound as the dervish begins to rotate as all things in the universe – the palm of his right hand faces skyward to receive God’s beneficence, left-hand palm facing earth to channel it downward. His white skirt flares as he whirls; his eyes closed, yet no dizziness due to his meditative state. This dance of extreme discipline with an arcane philosophy is amazing to witness. After the performance, we seek out some old Ottoman inns before crossing back over.

A bonus to travelling in Cyprus is the proximity between cities – we catch the two-hour bus to Pafos (Paphos). En route, the topography changes from lush to “Arizona-like” terrain with sage and dwarf trees – and then… the resort ambiance of Pafos is instantaneous with the Mediterranean competing for blueness with the sky; a wide promenade lined with towering palms and flowering shrubs. Tantalizing scents waft on balmy breezes from eateries within the mix of touristy-shops.

Pafos was the capital of Cyprus in antiquity, resulting in such a wealth of archaeological sites, the entire city is listed as a UNESO World Heritage Site.

In Kato Pafos Archaeological Park, we begin with the villas once belonging to noblemen from the 2nd to 5th centuries AD. The mosaic floors depicting mythological figures are masterpieces; Dionysus with wine goblet held high, warriors spearing beasts.

“This Roman governor sure treated himself well,” Rick says as we view the rooms and baths of the House of Theseus. An incredulous moment is treading on a pathway of mosaics; the intricate tiles beneath our feet laid 2,000 years ago!

Another part of the park holds ruins of numerous basilicas, ravaged by invasions and earthquakes. The only church standing is Agia Kyriaki Chrysopolitissa, last rebuilt in 1500. In a nearby courtyard is St. Paul’s Pillar. According to tradition, the white marble column is where Apostle Paul was tied and lashed for preaching Christianity in 48 AD. He later converted the Roman governor Sergius Paulus.

Another day, we make our way to Agia Solomoni Christian Catacombs. A “sacred” tree out front has a zillion pieces of white fabric tied to branches; the belief being ailments are cured in those who affix a votive… I add a tissue. We move through the hauntingly eerie chamber of tombs from the Hellenistic period; many of the hollows are adorned with icons of saints, now stained and faded.

Rick usually follows his tour guide (me), but in one chamber he goes missing. I hear a splash… and a few expletives. I rush over and stare down a set of steps at Rick standing in ankle deep water. He leaps back onto the bottom step in shocked laughter. The trickster liquid returns to its dark clear stillness, so one would ever know it was not a solid slab of rock.

He squish-walks in waterlogged shoes to our next site – the Tombs of Kings, so named for the grandeur of the acropolis, which once held the remains of high-ranking officials and wealthy families mostly from the Roman period. As we weave our way through the excavations, the underground tombs carved out of rock range from simple ones for individual burials, to chambers with passages and large colonnaded tombs – a captivating walk back through time.

We next hop a bus to Larnaka (Larnaca) with its famed Salt Lake, where flamingos find refuge – and there they are – about 500 wading and feeding on brine shrimp. Edging the lake is Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque, a place of Muslim pilgrimage.

Back in Larnaka proper, Agios Lazaros (Lazarus) Church glows golden in the sun – and yes, the Lazarus is the same one mentioned in biblical passages; brought back from the dead by Jesus (John 11:43). Religious persecution sent Lazarus fleeing to Cyprus in 33AD. Here, he met Apostles Paul and Barnabas who ordained him the first Bishop of Kition (now Larnaka), where he served his remaining mortal years. His burial place was lost until, in 890AD, a tomb was excavated with the inscription “Lazarus the friend of Christ.” A church was built over the tomb, but Byzantine church leaders decreed the relics be sent to Constantinople. The crypt of the present-day church is still over the tomb. Shivers run down my spine as I touch the edges and peer into the sarcophagi found within.

The church swells with baroque woodcarvings, gigantic chandeliers, and striking icons. A silver box near the entrance is the focus of all who enter. I wait my turn to gaze through its glass top at bone fragments. They were discovered in 1972 during a fire restoration within a small marble sarcophagus under the altar and identified as a part of St. Lazarus relics, so not all were removed to Constantinople as ordered centuries ago.

On our last few Larnaka days, I feel I could sit forever on the velvety sand and look out over the sea. All too soon, our flight from the nearby airport awaits us. Cyprus will long be remembered for its intriguing multi-layered history, rich cultures, fabulous ruins, markets galore, friendly Cypriots and beaches that are definitely Aphrodite worthy.

IF YOU GO:

Tourism Cyprus: www.visitcyprus.com 

Intercity buses on the Greek side are plentiful. Info at:  www.cyprusbybus.com 

Other options – car rentals/taxis/tour companies. Transportation is not as developed on the Turkish side; for extensive travel here a rental car or tour are best.

Cyprus International Airports are located in Pafos and Larnaka
www.hermesairports.com  

Cyprus is a great holiday destination on its own, or fly from another European country you are visiting.

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