The boat edges into a thicket of trees, and naturalist Juan Tejada draws our attention to a tree to the left. Peeking out of the tree are two owl monkeys. It is fortunate to see them as they are usually nocturnal, according to Juan.
Photo: Marilyn Jones
Passengers of M/V Zafiro repeat this moment dozens of times as they explore the Amazon River and its tributaries in Peru.
Juan explains that the name Amazon comes from the native warriors, primarily women, that attacked a Spanish expedition that reminded 16th-century explorer Francisco De Orellana of the mythical female Amazon warriors from the ancient Hellenic culture in Greece.
The river stretching through South America is the largest river by discharge volume of water in the world, travelling through Peru, Columbia, Bolivia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Brazil. It also has the most tributaries of any river in the world.
An estimated 16,000 species live in the Amazon. Although the rainforest is teeming with wildlife, it is hard to spot in the tree canopy. With eagle eyes, the naturalists find birds, including toucans, woodpeckers, laughing hawks, macaws, parakeets, black-collared hawks and kingfishers, to name a few.
Photo: Marilyn Jones
Squirrel and wooly monkeys perform acrobatics in the trees as they pick fruit and catch insects. The jungle is also home to cuddly-looking sloths, tapirs, elusive jaguars and mystical pink river dolphins.
Every day we go out on excursions in small boats. Sometimes before and after breakfast, after lunch, and after the sun sets guests motor into the jungle. Naturalists find creatures like the boa constrictor, anaconda, tarantulas and poisonous frogs.
Discovering the rainforest’s birds, animals and reptiles is part of the experience.
Understanding the Amazon people and their lives is also a valuable and enriching experience. We pass men, women and children fishing and tending to their homes and property along the river. Juan greets them in Spanish as we sail by.
Photo: Marilyn Jones
Twice we fish for piranha. The first time the fish weren’t biting, we all enjoyed interacting with the local children canoeing nearby and a little two-year-old playing with a giant yellow balloon. A few days later, our efforts pay off, and we are hauling in the bright orange fish with the razor-sharp teeth repeatedly. Everyone who fished caught several piranhas as well as other types of fish.
One morning, our boat driver and naturalist take us to Nauta, a city 100 km south of Iquitos, the provincial capital. Nauta, located on the north bank of the Maranon River, a major tributary of the Upper Amazon, has a population of about 20,000.
Our tour begins in an outdoor market. We walk by everything from pharmaceuticals sold by a doctor operating the booth to spices, homemade cookies, grain, kitchen goods and clothes. We go indoors to a fish wet market. Here Amazon River fish are sold, including catfish that make up 40 per cent of the river fish population.
Experts with a knife, women filet fish as we walk along the crowded aisles. They sell produce and other meat in another building, including large rodents.
Photo: Marilyn Jones
We continue past murals on the side of a building depicting local superstitions about ghosts, the rubber plantation owners, and the missionaries who brought Christianity to the area. Catholicism is the most popular religion here.
During the last portion of our tour, we board tuk-tuks and tour the city. Past homes made of metal sheeting, businesses, and women washing their clothes in a seeming muddy creek, it is evident the people of the Amazon work hard and use everything the mighty river and the rainforest can provide.
After a day of exploring, there is often music in the lounge before dinner. Crew members play traditional and popular Peruvian music. And they are excellent!
Three guitarists, two drummers, two maraca players, and one with a rainmaker join to create the feeling of the river. All the guitar players have beautiful voices, and two play Peruvian flutes. Toe-tapping and clapping turn into dancing as everyone enjoys the upbeat sound of the country.
Meals are special occasions as well. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style with salads and Peruvian dishes, such as seasoned beans and rice wrapped in leaves, fried plantains, delicious fish, chicken, and beef and homemade bread. Beautifully plated dinner courses satisfy any discerning appetite. All topped off with dessert: cake, mousse, ice cream and fruit.
Photo: Marilyn Jones
You may wonder if there was anything negative about the expedition cruise. From my viewpoint, no. I enjoyed every minute of my adventure. The staterooms are spacious, the food delicious, the boat rides and hikes educational and thrilling, and the city tour eye-opening. The entire crew is friendly and exemplary.
When is the best time to visit the Amazon River and Rainforest? According to Juan, “Now. Every season offers something different in the rainforest.”
Crew members, including Cruise Director Angela Rodriguez, grew up along the river. They understand what it’s like to live in the rainforest and how to showcase exotic animals and reptiles; they respect their history and the river.
IF YOU GO:
Want to experience this once-in-a-lifetime trip? Exodus Travels Premier Adventures offers a seven-day cruise. The maximum number of guests on the ship is 38, with 24 crew members.
For more information: www.exodustravels.com or call 1-844-337-5367.
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