It’s after sunset when our Turkish Airlines flight lands in Cairo. I am met by a G Adventures representative who, along with our driver, takes me to Mercure Cairo Le Sphinx Hotel where I will stay the first three nights of my visit. A young bellman in his early 20s enthusiastically tells me my room has a wonderful view, but in the inky black punctuated with security lights, I can’t see anything too exciting.
The next morning, when I pull back the curtain, there they are — two of the three pyramids of Giza. I had heard the pyramids were close to the city, but this “room with a view” is a genuine surprise; the first surprise of many during my 12-day trip back in time.
Egypt: pyramids, temples, tombs, kings, queens, gods and goddesses; I’m ready to experience as much as I can. Making this happen is Chief Experience Officer (CEO) guide and Egyptologist Mohammed Bayoumy. Enthusiastic, professional, friendly and so knowledgeable, he will introduce the group of 14 Americans, Canadians, Australians and New Zealanders to his country.
CAIRO
Although I am eager to visit the pyramids, our guide wisely takes us to the Egyptian Museum first. The museum opened in 1902, specifically to house Egypt’s historic treasures.
Mohammed uses the sculptures, reliefs and other artifacts to teach us the chronological history from Old Kingdom (approximately 2700 BC) to the Greco-Roman period.
The museum is overwhelming even with a guide, but without one, it would be nearly impossible to understand what you are looking at. There are more than 120,000 artifacts, including items from King Tutankhamun’s tomb and most of the royal mummies that have been discovered since the 19th century.
During the following days, Mohammed uses what we learn in the museum to relate to the sites we are visiting.
The Great Pyramids of Giza are, of course, one of the highlights of any visit to Egypt. When we arrive, Mohammed tells us the largest pyramid was built over a 10- to 20-year period around 2560 BC. It is amazing to see how big each block of stone is and the masterful way they were used in construction. We all decide to venture inside the largest pyramid taking a narrow passageway deep inside to King Khufu’s tomb. The chamber is large with 19-foot ceilings, but all that is left here is the king’s sarcophagus. The Sphinx is a short bus ride away and again we take our time photographing it and taking in the moment.
ALEXANDRIA
Like Cairo, Alexandria is a bustling metropolis with more than five million residents (compared to Cairo’s 20 million). There is a lot to see and do here. Because of its location on the Mediterranean Sea, it is a popular vacation destination for Egyptians.
Our first stop is the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa; one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. Descending into the top two levels (the third level is often flooded), Mohammed points out the Greek, Roman and Egyptian artwork from the 1st to 4th centuries AD. The tombs were used as the final resting place for as many as 300 mummies.
A short bus ride away is Pompey’s Pillar, a 27-metre-tall (including its base and capital) monolithic Roman pillar. It is the only artifact remaining of a massive temple dedicated to the god Serapis. The entire structure, except for this single pillar, was destroyed during the 4th century AD by Coptic Christians attempting to eradicate paganism from the city.
The pillar is one of the largest ancient monoliths still in existence. Unlike many similar pillars that were composed of drums, this one was carved out of a single block of red Aswan granite. It is estimated to weigh around 259 tonnes.
Our last stop is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, also known as the New Library of Alexandria. Second in size only to the Library of Congress in the US, the library is designed to hold around eight million books. Beautiful in design, the massive building also houses art galleries, the Sadat Museum, dedicated to the late President Anwar Sadat, Manuscripts Museum, Antiquities Museum and History of Science Museum.
Our hotel is located near the Mediterranean Sea, where a long promenade offers a great place to walk and enjoy the beauty of the water. As I walk, several people smile, wave and say, “Welcome to Egypt.” It is a pleasant way to spend the evening just before the sun sets.
ASWAN
Back in Cairo, we catch a plane to Aswan in Southern Egypt located just north of the Aswan Dam, which formed Lake Nasser.
The first site we visit is Philae Temple, built to honour Isis, goddess of beauty and love, the wife of Osiris, god of heavens and the lord of the underground world, and mother of Horus. The falcon-headed Horus was originally the sky god, whose eyes were the sun and moon and later known more as the son of Isis and Osiris.
The temple, built between 380-362 BC, was moved from its original location on Philae Island to its new location on Agilkia Island when the newly formed Lake Nasser was created.
Another site relocated because of the lake is the Great Temple of Ramses II. The temples at Abu Simbel were built to honour the king and his wife. The two temples were originally constructed between 1274 and 1244 BC. Giant statues of Ramses II, his wife and Egyptian deities frame the entrances. Inside, there are remarkable statues and wall etchings depicting gods, goddesses and life scenes of the king.
CRUISING THE NILE
Everything I do and see in Egypt is a highlight, but I can’t say enough about how much I enjoy my three days on the Princess Sarah river cruise ship. River cruises sail between Aswan and Luxor offering a wonderful way to see the Nile Valley. The Princess Sarah is a lovely ship offering beautiful surroundings and an attentive staff. I enjoy the relaxation of watching the world go by and being able to stop along the way for shore excursions.
Kom Ombo temple, dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god, and Horus is along the river, so as soon as we leave the ship, we walk to the temple. It is later in the evening, so we hurry to see and better understand the temple before going to the adjoining museum where the mummified remains of crocodiles dating to 180 BC are on display.
Another temple we visit along the Nile is Edfu dedicated to Horus. This is the most complete temple in Egypt. As we disembark, we are greeted by calèche (horse-drawn buggy) drivers who help us up onto the buggy and take us through the village to the temple that was built during the Ptolemaic era from 237 to 57 BC.
LUXOR
Luxor is a fascinating city with two temples once connected by the recently discovered Avenue of the Sphinxes.
Luxor Temple was built over the times of several kings from 1390 to 1213 BC. The temple was dedicated to Amun, king of the gods, his consort Mut and their son Khonsu.
The Avenue of the Sphinxes connected Luxor Temple with the Great Temple of Amun at Karnak, the largest religious building ever made. Covering about 81 hectares, Karnak was also dedicated to Amun, Mut, and Khonsu and built between 1390 and 1353 BC.
Originally more than two-and-a-half kilometres long, the Avenue of the Sphinxes was used once a year during the Opet festival when the Egyptians paraded the statues of Amun and Mut in a symbolic re-enactment of their marriage. The avenue was finished during the 30th Dynasty rule of Nectanebo I (380-362 BC). It is currently being excavated and restored to its former glory.
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
I am amazed with the Valley of the Kings. In the visitor’s centre is a display showing the tombs going into the mountain. There are 63 tombs in the valley, each decorated with scenes of what the Egyptians thought would take place in the afterlife.
Constructed during Egypt’s New Kingdom (1539-1075 B.C) most of the contents were removed by tomb robbers, treasure hunters and archeologists over several centuries. The contents were items the king would need in the afterlife including clothing, food, wine, personal treasures and jewellery.
In 1922, Howard Carter discovered the resting place of King Tutankhamun; number KV62. In 2005, another tomb was discovered about 15 metres from King Tutankhamun’s tomb. Although there was no mummy, KV63 contained objects including pottery, linens and flowers. Archeologists are still working to solve its mysteries.
Egypt is a land of culture, history and beauty; a country I recommend for anyone who wants to travel back in time and be astonished by what the Egyptians accomplished thousands of years ago.
IF YOU GO:
The safest way to travel in Egypt is on an organized tour. Tourist police monitor all tour group movements and are present at every major attraction.
G Adventures offers four tours in Egypt, ranging from 8 to 14 days in length from $719 per person to $2399 per person depending on the length of the trip, accommodations and other factors. Air fare is separate.
For more information: call 1-888-800-4100 or visit gadventures.com.
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