Arizona’s Sonoran Desert

As eager first-timers to Arizona, we explore its Sonoran desert and southwest heritage… without playing even one golf course! Our discoveries begin on horseback just outside Scottsdale.

Slapping on cowboy hats and strapping on water bottles, we settle aboard Big John and Gem. Wrangler Josh leads us into the blazing sun, explaining, “This ranch once stretched 17,000 hectares eastward to the McDowell Mountains and south to the Camelbacks.” It seems impossible that cattle could survive here, until told each steer had over 16 hectares for grazing, which included nutritious bean pods from Palo Verde, ironwood, mesquite and other plentiful legumes.

Josh continues his horseback commentary, pointing out some familiar spiraling cacti, “Notice how barrel cactus always lean southward? Locals call ’em compass cactus. And because those fuzzy-looking golden cholla produce very sticky barbs, they’re nicknamed desert Velcro.”

A Great Horned Owl eyes us from her nest tucked high in a stately saguaro. “She swiped that prime spot from a Harris Hawk family,” says Josh. “Mama Owl and Mrs. Hawk perched up in that ironwood tree an entire day – motionless – deciding ownership in a stare-down!”

Chris and Rick rest in the shade of an old Assay Office. Photo provided by the Millikans.

Cottontail rabbits and quail scurry into ragged underbrush. Above, tangled nest-like plants cling to struggling trees. “That mistletoe’s stranglin’ a Palo Verde,” Josh winks. “Y’know, I never understood kissin’ under mistletoe, parasites suckin’ life from their host! And growin’ in such thorny trees here in the desert… smoochin’ under Arizona’s mistletoe could hurt ya!”

Instructed to pick tiny green leaves, we roll them between our fingers and inhale the creosote shrub’s oily perfume. “After a rain, desert air smells exactly like that,” grins Josh. Though not sighting one rattlesnake, we learn they’re common, as are the gopher snakes that mimic rattler behaviours to discourage predators. Josh leaves us with a sobering thought, “Remember one thing about the desert: everything wants to stick, sting, bite – or eat you! Or pretends to! Otherwise, it’s a place of rare beauty!”

Boisterous birdsong awakens us the next morning for an early, beat-the-heat hike in McDowell Sonoran Preserve. Guide Randy leads us into this mountain park along a rugged seven-kilometre loop, one of many popular routes. He advises, “Walk, don’t gawk!” Sweeping views of Scottsdale below, vultures swooping above and desert plants make this difficult!

Puffing upward to the 732-metre summit, we pause often, delighting in purple flowers on teddy bear chollas, woodpeckers pecking nest-holes in soaring saguaros and fiery red blossoms on the ocotillo’s whip-like branches.

Randy fills us in, “Because there’s two rainy seasons and no overnight frosts, the Sonoran Desert supports unique vegetation and animals.”

Next day’s stroll throughout Desert Botanical Gardens furthers our understandings. Winding pathways lead us past endless varieties of cacti and succulents from around the world, many abloom in orange, yellow and red. In the wildflower collection, rainbows of blossoms attract hordes of fellow photographers… and darting hummingbirds. A glassed enclosure showcases native butterflies, some ready to hitchhike outside on unsuspecting visitors.

Other trails lead us into five different habitats, where we learn characteristics of the desert, oasis, mesquite forest, semi-desert grassland and chaparral. Plants used for food, medicine, basketry, simple dwellings and implements demonstrate early desert lifestyles.

Nestled in the foothills of the Black Mountains north of Phoenix, Carefree provides a relaxing change of pace in the high desert. Each sunny day begins with brisk walks into town for breakfast. In chitchatting, our friendly waitress highlights the town’s uniqueness, amusing us with streets named Ho-Hum Road, Tranquil Trail, Linger Lane and Nonchalant Avenue.

Chris and Rick pose on Main Street. Photo provided by the Millikans.

After browsing Easy Street’s boutiques and galleries, we cross to the plaza cactus garden, and bump into the Mayor near a rare Boojum tree! “Welcome to Arizona’s oldest planned town,” he grins. “Designed in the 1950s to rival Palm Springs, Carefree was developed for leisure, initially attracting stars like Dick Van Dyke, Lucille Ball and Bob Hope. And the Cartwrights ranching in nearby Cave Creek inspired a vacationing Hollywood writer to create Bonanza, the popular TV western.”

Parting, we locate the rare crested saguaro, another garden superstar. And over at the renowned copper-shielded sundial, a plaque tells us it rises 20 metres above us. “Where the Sun Marks Time” seems a perfect motto!

Escaping afternoon heat, we pop into the northern branch of world-famous Heard Museum. The main gallery features a detailed Bear Dance mural, instructive Hopi katsina dolls, basketry, pottery and textiles. In another, we admire native silver jewelry reflecting intricate traditional designs as well as modern motifs using gemstones and gold.

Around Mesa we learn how pioneers excavated ancient native canals to irrigate today’s Mecca of heritage family farms. The area’s economy now depends on Five Cs: climate, cotton, citrus, copper and Canadians! At Queen Creek Olive Mill, owner and master blender explains that Mesa’s ideal climate and their mill’s minimal processing techniques result in exceptional olive products. Olive Oil 101 demonstrates their gentle harvesting practices and olive varieties, and rewards us with delectable samples of signature extra virgin oils, stuffed olives and tapenades.

The Apache Trail takes us eastward into Arizona’s glory days. Our stops begin at Superstition Mountain Museum, where artifacts and displays recall the late 1800s. The Lost Dutchman Mine’s notorious stories draw most visitors. The Apaches, Mexicans and Dutchman Jacob Waltz supposedly found its cursed gold. If this mine actually existed, Jacob took the secret to his grave in 1891. Still seduced by swirling folklore, hopeful prospectors search the Superstition Mountains for the Lost Dutchman’s legendary riches to this day.

Outside, we read zany elegies carved on wooden grave markers. A dusty trail leads to a twenty stamp mill and weathered assay office, reflections of early mining activity. Beyond the barbershop, Wells Fargo office and stagecoach stand two buildings salvaged from Apacheland, a burned out western movie ranch: Elvis Presley Memorial Chapel and a barn filled with film memorabilia, including black and white photos of cowboy stars.

Stopping at Goldfield Ghost Town, we stroll down Main Street. This old town may have outgrown Mesa, but the gold vein faulted and ore grade dropped. Later, sipping icy lemonades on a shady veranda, we survey the old hotel, livery stables and bordello. In its heyday, Goldfield also boasted three saloons, a boarding house, general store, blacksmith shop, brewery, meat market and schoolhouse. While others ride its narrow gauge railway or tour the Mammoth Gold Mine, we head onward to an infamous stagecoach stop.

Tortilla Flat’s western charm outlasts time. In the Saloon, saddles form barstools; thousands of dollar bills scrawled with messages paper the walls. We settle down to bowls of killer chili, cooling it off with gulps from pint jars of local brew aka Mule Oil! Then, moseying along the boardwalk, we enjoy prickly pear ice cream and head to a marina two miles back.

There, we cruise Canyon Lake’s 45 scenic kilometres aboard Dolly the Steamboat. Through the Junior Grand Canyon, sheer cliffs soar above cactus dotted shorelines on this, smallest of the Salt River’s several manmade lakes. Around tiny coves, the captain urges us to watch for roaming mule deer and packs of pig-like javelinas. Instead, we spot eagles nesting on towering pinnacles and bighorn sheep balancing on lofty crags. In passing oddly shaped sandstone formations, we imagine seeing a mammoth… and other creatures.

Our whirlwind explorations in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert reveal astonishing bio-diversity and frontier history.