Every summer for the last two decades, my wife and I have hiked for a week in the Rockies. It took me quite a while to get into hiking, as I didn’t get much out of it at first. It seemed like I’d spend hours staring at the ground, and I tripped over tree roots and rocks every time I looked up to enjoy the view. But eventually we discovered hikes with better trails and better destinations. My favourite destination is Skoki Lodge.
Skoki is one of a series of venerable lodges built to bring skiers into the Rocky Mountains. The birthplace of Canadian skiing, Skoki is a back-country lodge built in 1931 by the Ski Club of the Canadian Rockies. In the pre-ski-lift days of wooden skis and snowshoes, a group of Banff residents created Skoki, the Rocky’s first commercial ski operation at 2,164 metres in Banff National Park’s high alpine.
Much of the Lodge’s original charm remains intact at the end of a beautiful, moderately challenging, 11km hike over two mountain passes. The view during the three-to-four-hour hike is breathtaking, as are the climbs past Ptarmigan Lake and over Deception Pass. At 76, my heart pounds a little heavier with each summer’s visit.
At the end of the trail from the Lake Louise ski area in one of several nearby alpine valleys is Skoki’s cozy, two-story log lodge and three cabins. It’s a Canadian National Historic Site with alpine water source, oil lamps and candles, wood stoves and fireplace, and rustic outhouses.
The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge spent part of their extended honeymoon in 2011 in the aptly named Honeymoon Cabin with its king-sized bed.
The other rooms offer a multiple range from one single, two single beds, two single beds and a bunk bed, three single beds, and a queen-sized bed.
Royal protocol required Will and Cate have their own outhouse, and our hosts told a funny story about the helicopter pilot dropping the “royal throne” at the Lodge, and the couple’s massive security detail from Scotland Yard and RCMP scurrying to put it back together before the royal couple’s visit.
Hiking to Skoki in the afternoon, visitors are greeted with a luxurious tea service offering fresh baked treats, fine cheeses, fruit and assorted meats.
At night, Skoki’s expert kitchen staff produce hearty, gourmet meals of fresh fish, pork and beef tenderloin, lots of vegetarian options, house-made soups and salads, and an array of sweet desserts. You can treat yourself from the Lodge’s offerings of beer, wine and cocktails, too.
There is no cell or wifi coverage, but the living room with its cozy fireplace has an excellent library, a selection of board games, and great company telling tales of hiking adventures to Merlin Lake and beyond. Comfortable beds with down duvets ensure a good night’s sleep.
In the morning, a pitcher of hot water is delivered to each room for washing up before coffee, tea and a breakfast buffet of bacon, eggs, pancakes and toast. Another table is set up for hikers to make sack lunches after breakfast.
We’ve only visited Skoki Lodge during summer months, but it’s also open December-April for skiers of all abilities to enjoy ski touring the alpine slopes. In summer, there is great trout fishing in the nearby lakes and fabulous shows of alpine flowers including columbine, arnica, anemone, Indian paintbrush and mountain daisies. There are lots of marmots and ground squirrels and alpine birds like ptarmigan, nutcrackers and jays. We’ve seen grizzly bears at a distance and beavers, too.
My other favourite summer hiking adventures include helicopter rides into the alpine surrounding Assiniboine Lodge and Durrance Glacier Chalet. Those memorable trips were spectacular adventures, but this summer we’re returning to Skoki Lodge’s cozy charms. Skoki has a very special place in my heart.
IF YOU GO:
For more information and reservations call 1-888-997-5654.
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