Twenty years ago, a small group of women from British Columbia went on a trip to China specifically to meet Chinese women working in science, at home, in politics, on farms and in factories; and to tour several parts of the country. It was an eye-opening trip of a lifetime. Visiting today’s China on a 12-day tour of the Middle Kingdom with friends from Victoria turned out to be yet another trip of a lifetime. For the author, it was meeting the new China while turning back the mental clock to recall an earlier visit.
A 12-day trip to China might not sound very long but it included the highlights of Beijing, Xian, Hangzhou, Suzhou and Shanghai. Having our own small bus and driver for transportation, easy access to historical sites, informative guides and all arrangements for entertainment, dining and accommodation made in advance made it easy.
As in 1992, this recent visit started with a trip to the world’s largest square, which is still full of people marveling at the vast space, and with Chairman Mao’s portrait looking upon it all. There is a military presence, but the overall atmosphere is one of relaxation with visitors taking photos, admiring the monuments and groups of youth preparing for National Day celebrations. The massive digital display and a huge peony floral setting are big draws as assemblers work on the displays with TV crews, police and buses in attendance.
The cheeriness of the place today is in sharp contrast to the somberness of 1992 when, recent history in mind, visitors were trickling back to China from the West and the Chinese were discovering their own country. Then, the square had long lines of people snaking slowly to view the body of Chairman Mao in his mausoleum, herded along by grim-faced, drab-clad officials. Being photographed in Tiananmen Square was just as popular then as it is now.
No matter when, it is an unbelievable thing to find yourself walking on a small portion of the 3,500-mile-long Great Wall built in the 5th century BC with ongoing centuries-worth of construction. The unspoiled immensity and solidness of the structure really does help the visitor begin to understand the essence of this ancient country.
However, it was somewhat startling to see a bride and groom in full Western bridal regalia posing for photos on the steps to one of the guard towers. Probably a fashion shoot because the bride reappeared in a scarlet red dress. Later, we learned that couples choose historical sites for their wedding photos and the bride often wears nine or more different outfits for the event.
There are plenty of souvenir and artifact options displayed in a rambling succession of shops outside of the edifice, so the Great Wall experience is one that remains as unspoiled as it was 20 years ago.
This leg of the trip also included visits to the 9,999 room Forbidden City, where 24 emperors ruled the Middle Kingdom from 1420-1911. Knowing that, until 1949, only a select few could enter the symbolic centre of the Chinese universe, it is with a sense of privilege that many can now do so. Apart from the leveling off and smoothing of some of the entrance walkways and the addition of five-star toilets, available to some visitors, things remain the relatively unchanged.
A trip on a rickshaw through the hutongs [narrow streets or alleys] allowed for a glimpse of Beijing’s past. Shops crowded onto shops, alleys twisting in all directions, red decorations for National Day brightening the entire experience; and people talking, relaxing, working, arguing and carrying on as they have done for eons. A home-cooked meal in a family’s hutong home was a real treat and, although this type of thing is done for the tourist, how else would one be able to have such an experience on a short visit to China? Being able to go into someone’s home and share food, have conversations and exchange thoughts with them, even briefly, is a particularly warming experience. Personal interactions such as this one, and the hospitality offered by a retired army official and his family 20 years previous remain fond memories.
No trip to Beijing would be complete without Beijing Duck and this was enjoyed, as always, seated at a large round table with dish after varied dish being served, and endless questions being asked, while the dishes continued circling around the table, as to what this or that was, how did it taste, and is there more beer – a scenario that could have taken place any time during the previous two decades. As too are the trips to the Jade store, a walk along the Sacred Way of Ming Tombs, the Temple of Heaven; but not, of course, the visit to the 2008 Olympic Games Bird Nest building.
In Xian, the past is very much the present. The nine-mile-long city walls form a rectangle around the city centre. Glimpses of the wall and city gates are enjoyed in passing, although the surrounding traffic constantly clogs the scene, and construction is ongoing in every direction. Walking leisurely on that wall 20 years ago, there were wonderful glimpses of small courtyards surrounded by dwellings with trees in blossom, their branches overhanging tiled roofs, offering a view of peaceful simplicity.
In this area are the magnificent Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses, one of modern China’s greatest archaeological discoveries, unearthed in 1974 by locals digging a well. For over 2,200 years, the life-size figures and carriages were silently guarding the tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi. Over 7,000 soldiers, archers and horses have been found in a series of three pits, and the work continues. The figures, whose clothing and equipment are intricately detailed, were once brightly coloured and, although these faded upon exposure to the air, some figures do retain traces of paint. The sheer size of the find, vastness of the pits with row upon row of silent figures is awesome. Conservation is in progress, and broken figures are being painstakingly restored.
The courtyards and buildings of the complex housing the archeological sites are immense, with floral displays and imposing steps leading to entrances. A large restaurant, interpretative centre, signage and all other modern facilities make a visit here most enjoyable. Visitors can now view how replica figures of all sizes are made, and can even have one made in their own image. Bronze, headless figures are there for you to stand behind, stick your head up and have your photo taken as a pseudo warrior. Even the farmer upon whose land the warriors were discovered is there to sign his books.
Imagine not being able to take photos when visiting the one and only discovered pit Number One and being restricted to only getting a shot of a glass-encased sample, or buying postcards. That was how it was in 1992, when the site was very much an archeological one, and viewers were moved along quickly. How fortunate that more of the past was to be revealed in the future and made more widely available for relaxed viewing and studying.
An old Chinese saying goes: “In heaven above there is paradise, on earth there is Suzhou and Hangzhou.” West Lake is surrounded by gentle hills and the willow trees offer shade, gardens with pools brimming with goldfish are shaded by trees and grasses; there are bridges, pagodas and boats plying the water. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed; everyone appears to be happy and it’s hard not to be so in such lovely surroundings. Our group photo shot lures passersby to join in, so that eventually the group gets really big and the tour guide ends up taking nearly 200 shots on one camera – everyone is laughing. The brides and grooms are here too, beautiful in their finery and posing for their photographers and everyone else. It is perhaps more appealing today because of the natural harmony that imbues all those who are there.
Dr. Tea at the Dragon Well Tea Plantation, which is set amidst the lush hills outside Hangzhou made sure everyone knew just how good the tea is, how it is grown, cultivated, prepared and packaged. Samples and instructions on the correct way to view, taste and drink the beverage were offered, and it would come as no surprise that things around the tea ceremony haven’t changed.
The “Venice of the East” is often used to describe the 2,500-year-old city of Suzhou. It is a place with canals, traditional gardens and famed for silk production. Many boats ply the waters, taking tourists along the old waterways to glimpse the ancient homes that overlook the canals. Nothing much seems to have changed here in the last couple of decades except that the boats are larger, have engines, and some of the canals are lined with attractive restaurants. The upcoming National Day red lanterns add a festive air to the whole experience. Incongruously, there is a large karaoke stadium on one of the banks, given that a couple of decades ago karaoke, singing and ballroom dancing were very popular and seem to have become more so… enough to warrant such a building.
What a delight it was to return to the Garden of the Master of the Fishing Nets dating from 1140. Suzhou is renowned for its gardens, which link the concepts of scenery and serenity using the four elements: rocks, water, plants and architecture. What an eye opener it is to have a knowledgeable guide explain the subtleties of the many aspects of this small but exquisite garden. Such information during a previous visit helped form an appreciation of oriental gardens and design, and coming back again was no less enlightening.
No trip to China would be complete without a visit to a silk mill or factory. The fascinating step-by-step process from worm to cocoon to spinning to silk fabric is shared with visitors who can also handle the worms as they munch their way through succulent mulberry leaves. The threads from the cocoons are spun on huge machines overseen by dexterous operators, and while there must be many more such machines somewhere out of sight, there are only a few on operational display. The end products are magnificent to behold and the store in which they are displayed is large, bright and uplifting with an obvious pride in process and product.
Recollections of the silk factory visited back in 1992 conjure up Dickensian visions. When the guide was asked why the workers didn’t wear ear protection against the horrendously overwhelming noise of the machines, he simply said, “They get used to it.” The products were exquisite, but the displays were a bit of an afterthought and it seemed that catering to interested visitors was not a priority.
Driving into Shanghai is like entering a science fiction outer space cityscape. It is breathtaking to see the vast network of roads and overpasses, and even more so to experience being driven on them. After plunging into the immense underground highway system, we eventually emerge surrounded by a myriad of sparkling, modern buildings in very creative styles.
Shanghai’s famed Bund is where people have always gathered and sauntered, taking in the sights and sounds of the city and the river. It is as popular today as ever, and is shoulder-to-shoulder people at night during National holidays. Daytime sees visitors from all regions of China, families and groups of friends walking along enjoying the floral walls and garden beds, and generally taking in the river scenes where everything from cruise liners to coal barges glides by.
Being whisked up in a soundless, motionless elevator to the top of the 1,380 foot tall Jinmao Tower is a bit breathtaking and can leave one a bit wobbly catching up with the rapid altitudinal change. The view from the top is incredible and a jolly atmosphere pervades the entire floor as people hang red silk tassels and tags, having first written down their private wishes on them, on the central tree.
The old Shanghai Bazaar and the Shanghai Museum, both in their own way, provide even more information about China’s culture, past and present. In a typical juxtaposition, the ultra-modern museum houses antiquities so rare they are hard to comprehend; the old Shanghai Bazaar houses just about anything you’d want from souvenirs, to fresh pearls, barbecued pig parts to the latest trends in fashion accessories.
Unchanged are the delightful interactions with Chinese people. In a local park, there are people dancing to many different types of music from swing to country, playing musical instruments and singing opera or the latest rock songs, having heated discussions and just celebrating the National holiday. What fun it is for everyone when some Western visitors join in the dance. How interesting it is when a group of old men in a heated debate stop to listen in amazement as one of them breaks into perfect English to talk with the visiting Victorians. Taking photos of all of these things, people come up to have their photos taken too. Everyone studies the digital results and laughter breaks out all around.
It wasn’t much different when the women’s tour visited with a group of female officials and the male guide left the room. Questions changed from statistics to “how old are you – you all look the same to us” “how many children do you have” “who does the housework if you are all professional women” and “how many times have you been married” the honest responses brought forth incredulous looks and gales of laughter. These moments of happy connection are the stuff of which all valuable memories are made.
A whirlwind trip to China ends aboard the world’s fastest magnetic levitation train, the Maglev, which takes only a few minutes to cover the 20 miles to the sleek, ultra-modern airport. China in 12 days is barely scratching the surface, but it fills the senses to overflowing and there is an inkling of understanding as to who and what makes up that huge and fascinating country.
Note:
Nowhere near all experiences or places visited on both trips to China are recalled here.
Links:
www.chinaspree.com
www.chinapac.ca
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