Throughout human history, Antarctica has been the ultimate unexplored territory in polar exploration.
Renowned explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton perfectly captured the allure of Antarctica when he said, “Indeed, the stark polar lands grip the hearts of those who have been there in a manner that can hardly be understood by people who never got outside the pale of civilization.”
Antarctica’s breathtaking beauty and desolation continue to attract adventurous voyagers from around the world.
People come to witness the grandeur of the snow-shrouded topography, imposing glaciers, and massive icebergs along its rugged coastline, as well as to experience the rich diversity of wildlife, including whales, seals, seabirds, and iconic penguins.
Today, people can experience Antarctica in relative luxury aboard state-of-the-art, ice-strengthened, small expedition ships. Our recent expedition to the 7th continent was aboard Aurora Expeditions’ purpose-built vessel, the MV Sylvia Earle. The ship is sturdily equipped with nautical stabilizing technology, advanced navigational aids, and sophisticated maritime weather forecasting.
Its onboard amenities include a lecture room, science centre, library, mudroom, gym, sauna, jacuzzis, sun deck, two dining rooms, and bars and lounges.
Expedition cruises on small ships offer a unique experience compared to larger cruise ships in several ways.
First, small expedition ships are specifically designed to explore remote areas that larger vessels cannot reach.
They also have a greater choice of landing sites, as they can enter smaller harbours in compliance with regulations set by the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO).
It’s important to note that shore landings from vessels in Antarctica are restricted to 100 people ashore at any one time. As a result, larger cruise ships with 200 or more passengers must stagger their landing parties. Vessels transporting more than 500 passengers onboard are not allowed to land passengers in Antarctic waters.
Smaller vessels like the MV Sylvia Earle carry an average of 100 passengers on Antarctic expeditions, thus offering a more intimate onboard atmosphere, and providing more opportunities to get to know your fellow passengers. This is particularly beneficial for solo travellers.
Antarctica has been at the top of our travel list for a while. Many people view crossing the infamous Drake Passage, an 800-kilometre open ocean voyage over two days where the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern Oceans meet, as a momentous experience.
This stretch of ocean is known for being the most dangerous ocean passage in the world, with two distinct conditions: the rough “Drake Shake,” featuring large, heaving waves as high as 12 metres, and the “Drake Lake,” which offers a relatively calm experience in comparison.
Modern small expedition ships utilize navigational technology to chart a more suitable course and avoid extreme weather, making the notorious crossing easier for passengers.
While we were cruising along the Antarctic Peninsula, we were amazed by the number of huge, towering, weather-carved icebergs. Shaped by wind and worn down by the powerful Southern Ocean, Antarctica’s imposing iceberg armadas were truly captivating.
Many were enormous and even more impressive than we had ever expected.
Incredible, artistic forms of floating ice are created through a process called “calving” when they break off from the coastal edges of either tidewater glaciers or ice shelves. Almost all icebergs in the Southern Hemisphere break off from Antarctica’s landmass.
On March 19, 2024, at 10:06 a.m., we crossed the Antarctic Circle, located at 66°33’ latitude south. Although there is no formal maritime ceremony to mark this occasion, reaching this point is a rare achievement for world adventurers. Mimosa cocktails were served, and photos taken for posterity as we listened to a speech delivered by expedition crew member and historian, Dr. Ben Maddison, who eloquently addressed the significance of our location. Truly, a memorable moment in our journey.
Before making our first shore landing, we received a detailed briefing on Antarctica’s biosecurity regulations, which are quite extensive.
All outerwear, boots, backpacks, and camera bags were meticulously vacuumed to ensure no traces of anything could be left behind on shore.
Even an errant Kleenex tissue flying out of a pocket is not permissible. It is essential to give all wildlife a wide berth, and guests must adhere to any designated routes marked by the expedition team.
Moreover, guests should be prepared for unexpected changes to the planned itinerary due to fluctuating weather, sea conditions, or sudden closures of landing sites.
Antarctica is devoid of land-based mammals, but it hosts a diverse range of marine wildlife, seabirds, albatross, and invertebrates such as krill, which play a fundamental role in the Antarctic food web.
Penguins are the most iconic inhabitants of the region, and there are numerous scattered colonies across Antarctica, posing a challenge for research scientists to accurately count them all.
of Jett and Kathryn Britnell
Regular sightings of eight different whale species are common, as well as encounters with various seals.
The Southern Ocean’s undersea realm supports over 70 species including squid, cephalopods, crabs, sea stars, sea cucumbers, sea urchins, mussels, sponges, and corals. Approaching wildlife on shore closer than five meters, including with cameras or other equipment, is not allowed to avoid causing distress to the animals. The best way to observe wildlife during shore visits is to move quietly and slowly.
During our trip, we had the unique opportunity to visit several abandoned research stations when shore conditions allowed. While many of these stations were established under the auspices of conducting scientific research, the establishment of these huts was also made by countries to stake territorial claims.
Today, many of these turn-of-the-century buildings are preserved and maintained as museums, with their kitchen shelves still stocked with tins of canned goods and other remnants from their previous occupants. All of them provide a fascinating glimpse into past expeditions and documented work from former scientific research missions.
The trip itself also invited us to contribute to scientific research, by offering opportunities to be a part of citizen science projects with data and sample collection expeditions, of which we happily partook.
Unspoiled, untamed, and peacefully quiet, Antarctica is unlike any other place on Earth. Its enormity is impossible to fully grasp. This white, otherworldly continent undeniably left its mark on our hearts. It was here that we journeyed outside the pale of civilization and Antarctica exceeded our wildest expectations. |
Aurora Expeditions offers all-inclusive small-ship expeditions to Antarctica with a strong commitment to sustainable travel. For more information, visit aurora-expeditions.com
Jett and Kathryn Britnell are underwater, wildlife and expedition photographers, internationally published writers, explorers, scuba divers and public speakers. Both are Fellows of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, The Explorers Club and IAATO Antarctic Ambassadors. Jett serves as Chapter Chair for The Explorers Club’s Canadian Chapter.
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